Throttle Body Balancing with Carbtune

[EvilBetty]

Remove your tank.  <-- CLICK

Remove your air box  <-- CLICK

Buy a Carbtune  <-- CLICK

Make Fuel Line Extensions  <-- CLICK

All tore down...




Taking care not to get any debris in your intakes, clean up around the Idle Control Valve and vacuum lines.



Remove the two screws that secure the ICV (Torx 25) and remove the 3 vacuum lines from the throttle bodies.  Mine was filthy.  This might be a good time to tear it down and clean it up. (Don't forget the gasket when you reassemble).




Cut what zip ties you need to from the fuel rail to allow the fuel pump connection to reach your tank of the side of the bike.




If you're setting up your Carbtune for the first time, cut 10cm off the end of each of the vacuum hoses.  Cut the clear or white restricter tube into 4 equal sections, then use the four restricter tubes to splice the vacuum lines back together.

Connect 3 of the vacuum lines to the ports of the throttle bodies (you don't need the adapters) making sure to put the restricter ends on the throttle body side.




Connect the 3 vacuum lines to the Carbtune, and hang the Carbtune from the clutch side handlebar using the included removable zip tie.  Make sure to connect the #1 line to the #1 TB, which is on clutch side of the bike.



Reconnect the battery to the bike.

Position the fuel tank at the height it would normally be mounted on the bike.  Situate it where you can connect the fuel lines and fuel pump connection.  make sure the tank isn't touching any parts of the bike that might get hot.  I used a bar stool.

Connect the fuel and pump connections.




The triumph manual states you should use your "free hand" to keep the idle speed at 1200 RPM during calibration.  Get yourself a cruise control o-ring...
http://tigertriple.com/forum/viewtopic. ... se+control

Start the engine and let it warm up a minute or two.  Set your idle speed to around 1200 RPM using the o-ring or other farkle.  If your gages look like this (readings are not even) continue on.




After the bike is warmed up and engine speed is holding fairly steady, begin making adjustments on TB #2 using the TB #2 Set screw.



I had to use a finger from my other hand to support the back of the set screw while I made adjustments to keep from disrupting the throttle setting and reving or killing the bike.

Try to match up the reading on TB #1 and #2 first.  Then make adjustments to #3.  You'll notice that when you change #3, it affects 1 and 2 as well.  It takes a little trial and error.

When you have them all nice and even, rev the engine a couple of times then wait a few seconds to verify the setting is still correct.



Shut down the engine, remove your cruise farkle, disconnect all the tank extensions (you may make a bit of a fuel mess at this point) and then reassemble the bike.

[EvilBetty]

Before...




After

[Stretch]

Great post!

Linked to Girly Wisdom.

[TheMule]

Excellent Post!! I'm surprised how for your's were off, mine varied by a few mm prior to adjustment. Carbtune works great eh?

good job,

[brad1098]

Great post.  Is carbtune setup available for rent?  Or where can I get my paws on one?  Will a synchronizing tool for balancing dual webers on a VW work?  Looks to me like it might?

[HappyMan]

Great job E.B.!!  Thanks for the post.

[jsingraham]

very nice...now you need to bring that all up to North KC, or I will ride down south to do the same to mine one of these days!   :D

[EvilBetty]

Excellent Post!! I'm surprised how for your's were off, mine varied by a few mm prior to adjustment. Carbtune works great eh?

good job,

Bike is now at 25k, and the origional owner had never had the TB's serviced.  Hoping after I get the TOR tune done the throttle hessitation will now be fixed!

[EvilBetty]

Great post.  Is carbtune setup available for rent?  Or where can I get my paws on one?  Will a synchronizing tool for balancing dual webers on a VW work?  Looks to me like it might?

Considering having the dealer do the tune is over $200... it's worth buying the gauges in my opinion.  Now I can do it every 5K for free... the gauges already paid for themselves in the first use.

They are $107 dolloars from Morgan (see link above) shipped with the nice canvas case.

[EvilBetty]

very nice...now you need to bring that all up to North KC, or I will ride down south to do the same to mine one of these days!   :D

You have a 2006, so I'm not sure how the fuel line and pump connections would extend.  I know most 2006 and up bikes have the newer returnless fuel system and have a completely different fuel connector.  Otherwise bring it on down some time and we'll get it done.

[brad1098]

Wow E.B. I cant believe you haven't got the TOR tune.  My girl was a dawg before I got it.  Now she roars like she's supposed to  :lol:

Hesitation will be fixed!

Seat-O-Pants meter tells me +10 h.p.

I wonder what balanced T.B.s  would do?

[EvilBetty]

Well I've got this exhaust leak to work out.  I don't want to load the TOR then get fed up with these pipes and install the stock can back on, then have to get the stock tune reloaded.

I reinstalled the pipes last night with some Permatex Copper, but then I snapped a clamp :(

So now I need to find a stainless 55-59mm clamp.

[brad1098]

Then get the TOR tune and leave it in.  At least thats what I would do.  There were/are a few guys running the TOR tune with stock exhaust.

[EvilBetty]

Really?  Wonder how that's working out.  I would think there would be too much back pressure with the stock can to run the TOR effectively.

[Stretch]

The TOR tune is the way the bike is supposed to run.  But then the fuel economy accountants and environmentalists stuck their noses into the equation.

The stock tune is essentially the best Triumph could get the bike to run while catering to stiff fuel economy and emissions standards... very lean air / fuel mixtures with retarded ignition timing.

As for pipes, the stock pipe flows plenty well.  It is a quiet pipe that fits the more mainstream demographics of Tiger customers, but takes away very little in performance.  

You're only looking at about ten more horsepower with the TOR tune, so the stock pipe certainly won't restrict much at all.  You're just programming a bit more fuel and advancing the timing a bit.  It's not like you're doubling the CFM flow of the intake and exhaust systems.  The big difference between the programs is the low and midrange driveability.  There are quite a few dudes here who run the TOR tune with the quieter stock pipe.