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Front brakes

Started by daveb, October 23, 2011, 06:05:39 PM

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Bixxer Bob

How'd you repair it Dave? Looks like you had the  broken bit to stick back.

It may be ok now, but if it gives out under heavy braking (or any braking for the matter) and the seal leaks, you lever's going straight to the bar and you're going straight to the scene of  the accident (to quote Martin Brundle).....
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

BigDan

Epoxy metal is quite workable, stick a blob on and then smooth it out?
2007 Triumph Sprint ST 1050  - Add me on Facebook

Bixxer Bob

Normally a good idea Dan, but you don't eff with brakes unless you can effect a proper professional repair.  I know it's a very low chance of leaking, and that edge is not much more than dressing, but I'd never advise any less than a proper repair or replace.
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

metalguru

Definately with you on this BB.

What concerns me is what caused the lump to break from the casting? I would hazard a guess that a screwdriver may have been the culprit judging by the state of the pistons.

Personally if this bike was in my workshop and the customer wanted to ride it away, it would be gas-axed in half first.
There is no point what so ever in scrimping on brakes, can't afford it is no excuse. Can't afford it...don't ride it.
The pistons are pitted with rust and will therefore tear the seal eventually and the first you will know about it is in an oh sh*t moment and the lever comes to the bar. That then puts you at risk and whoever you hit. Coroners report states "Brakes were in bad repair".

Change the pistons and calipers for ones that are not rusty as f**k even good secondhand ones.
Rework a good set of secondhand calipers with new seals and pistons and of course new pads,  may be worth checking the thickness of the discs as if the state of the rest of the system is to be believed.

Rant over. Ride SAFE.

Edit.

Just noticed it took only 7 months from being rebuilt to have binding brakes again, this should suggest something!
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

daveb

I think winter riding has something to do with the state of the calipers.

the thing is when I removed the caliper nothing dropped off the caliper, so I dont know when it happened. so it cannot be repaired.

The only time I use a screwdrive near the brakes is to remove the locking screw for the pin.  even though they were binding its more of them rubbing.

I noticed this piece missing when the brakes were being pumped to remove the pistons. The seal only leaked when the piston was ready to be pulled out by finger pressure.

I have been searching the web for 2nd hand caliper and even compatible sets off anther triumph model.

Lucky enough Triumphant is only 30 miutes away so I can pop over there.

Bixxer Bob

My Blackbird has been ridden every winter since 2001, Tiger has been ridden every winter since 2007 and last month is the first time I've had a brake issue. That was on the Tiger and was my fault.  I washed the salt off on arriving home as I always do, but didn't dry her off properly like normal becauseit was late and still raining. I was then ill for a couple of days so the pads were sticking by the time I got back to her.  I kept to this discipline even when commuting 150 miles to Corsham and back or doing a  70mile daily comute to Henlow.  Even a quick rinse with a hose and cold water is enough to keep the salt at bay, focussing on calipers front and back, forks, wheel bearings and radiators.  Generally, the rest of the bike is paint and plastic so just needs keeping clean.

I've also been accused of being a bir ''retentive''   :oops:
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

daveb

pads changed too, the old ones were not good.





everything is now clean, wheel rotates freely.

I am finding the Tiger needs more TLC then my previous bike, which had Brembo brakes.

daveb

I have been offered a pair of calipers off another model of Triumph, Nissin,  just checking a few things out

 




metalguru

Would prefer the photo to show the working side but if it is as clean and good as the pretty side then go for it.

Don't forget the sealing washers and replace banjo bolts as a matter of course.

May be an idea to check the rear caliper, and both rad cores for salt corrosion.

My Tigger is ridden every day sometimes for a short or long commute and as BB suggests, a simple rinse off is good. I must admit to being a bit concerned about the affects of road salt and usually wash it every other day, to three days, lubeing the chain with teflon and have no problems at all.

Just as advice, if the brake pistons are in any way pitted or rough where the seal will come into contact, they are finished and need to be replaced, also the bores they run in should be pit/corrosion free.
If the source of the lump of caliper dissappearing is not known then even more reason to replace as the integrity of the whole caliper is not known, it is more than likely at some time in its past has incurred impact or leverage where no doubt the pistons were tight. By the colour of the break it has been missing for a while.
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

daveb

just checked out the brakes this morning, test ride no problems, new brake pads fitted too.

I also have checked the calipers this morning removed the pads again. the pistons are free and are able to be pushed in just be thumb pressure.

When stripped down shims were removed and polished also any crud was removed from behind then.

so it looks like I should wash the crud off every day when salting is being put down.

I have sent the measurement over to the guy. also the pitch of the slider pins.

metalguru




If you have a look at your pictures again,the small black dots (circled) are pits, these are rust. These pits have sharp edges which will eventually tear the seals as with the new pads you have fitted the pits will be nicely adjacent to these. These are the same as fork tubes when they rot and the seal will not last long, ok so the piston doesn't move as much as a fork but operates with far higher pressure.
The rubbers that the pins slide in, when these are removed corrosion can be found making the sliders tight.
Still would not run with brakes in this condition as they will not get any better, by virtue of you pushing the pistons nicely in with thumb pressure (good) will have already affected the seals.
Can only advise at the end of the day and it is your neck on the line.
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

daveb

thats photo was taken last year, and after polishing they were smooth, the bike has possible covered about 7,000 miles since then,

I am still on the look out for a new casting, the gold ones have slightly different pitch on the slide / guide pins so the hunt continues.

Sin_Tiger

On a slightly different track, does anyone know of a source for stainless bleed nipples.

My nipples are getting very rusty  :roll:
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

daveb

Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"On a slightly different track, does anyone know of a source for stainless bleed nipples.

My nipples are getting very rusty  :roll:

Sin_Tiger have you tried Triumph online  http://www.triumph-online.co.uk/brake-- ... -110-c.asp

daveb

look what arrived today  :D