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I bought another one (too ! )

Started by Solon, May 28, 2013, 07:42:21 AM

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TrailR


I just added a SW-MOTECH stand from Twisted Throttle.

Here is a link to the instructions that may help on installation.

http://static.twisted-throttle.net/media/files/hps_11_121_100.pdf

Solon

Thanks to everyone, that picture helped me find the missing part of the centre stand, it remained fixed on the other bike's sump, unfortunately it seems that in order to put it where it belongs, I'll have at least to strip down the exhausts, if not the centre stand  :bug_eye too - and that's a real torment to do.


Solon

My Tiger seems to be an endless series of trouble: today I wanted to move the front suspension from the bad tiger to the good one. They were really hard to take out of the youke, I had to hammer them out, and eventually I understood why: because they were hammered in too! As I told you before, the bike has been in an accident sometime in its past, and the fork was bent and straightened and probably the yoke was changed with one from another model, that doesn't fit. So the tubes go in fine through the lower yoke, but hit the margins when reach to the top one, but with some persistence and extra hammering, they managed to fit the in - tensioned and slightly bent, but the goddam animals didn't care  :pottytrain2. Now I have to take the top yoke too from the bad tiger, but the ignition switch doesn't let me, as it has to  come out first.
How on earth can one unscrew those things? With what tool?
I already managed to round the edges to one of them  :icon_sad:

Mustang


rf9rider

Looks like Solon wants to replace the top yoke?

The security screws on the ignition switch are made from soft metal, you need a small socket, then hammer it on to the screw, it should undo.

Mustang

I would seriously consider using the donor bike as the real deal and used the known accident bike as the donor bike  :bug_eye

Solon

Quote from: Mustang on June 01, 2013, 09:08:21 PM
you dont have to remove switch ............. :bug_eye

read this your answer lies within

http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4611&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=&sid=00f3fed19fc152dbd5f2f5ecbbbe3ae0
Thanks, that's a brilliant find, can't wait to try it today. Triumph mentions nothing about this in the service manual, they probably didn't realize either it could come out that easy, or they would have fixed that too :icon_razz:..
Quote from: rf9rider on June 01, 2013, 11:54:45 PM
Looks like Solon wants to replace the top yoke?

The security screws on the ignition switch are made from soft metal, you need a small socket, then hammer it on to the screw, it should undo.
Already tried hammering a 4 mm external torx socket, but didn't do the job, that soft metal  was too soft, maybe would have worked with an even smaller socket, but I couldn't find anywhere.
Quote from: Mustang on June 02, 2013, 02:08:11 AM
I would seriously consider using the donor bike as the real deal and used the known accident bike as the donor bike  :bug_eye
I've considered that too, but so far, the accident bike looks in a better shape than the other. And, I forgot to mention, the second bike was in an accident too. The frame was welded and strengthened behind the steering head. Same goes for the other bike :icon_mad: None of the previous owners told me anything about that before selling them to me  :pottytrain2
So I have two repaired chassis, one fork that hopefully will work (I didn't get to try it yet !) and one functional engine, that I might expect anything bad from, as the rest of the bike brought only trouble.

Solon

Did the hocus-pocus trick with the top yoke and was able to pull it out right away - thanks, Mustang!
But after changing the top yoke, I realized that the front suspension still didn't fit properly, so it turned out that the lower yoke was bent too. Took from the donor bike both top and lower yoke altogether with suspension and front wheel, that had both brake rotors in order, while the previous wheel had one disc warped. So now I have the whole front end from the other bike - no pics for that as there was nothing worth being captured. As the ignition switch moved with the yoke, no I have to change the tank cap and seat lock too, in order to have the same key fitting everything.
On the other hand I realized that the metal frame that fits the windscreen is slightly bent too, so I used high-tech tools  :icon_study: to get it right, like a wooden stick, that was worth a pic!

Solon

I said earlier on another topic that my bike seems to idle fine, but when I remove the coil to the first cylinder in the left nothing happens, just like DWNUNDR's bike.
I looked into the matter closer and I noticed that if I accelerate without coil no. 1, than the engine rattles, without acceleration, there is no change with or without the coil, the idling stays the same. Removing any of the other two coils causes rattling or kills the engine.
I thought that was normal, as the engine seems to run fine but now I opened the engine to check valve clearances and I noticed that both intake valves to the first cylinder had gone to  zero  :bug_eye.
I wonder if my engine idles only on two cylinders and I don't even realize  :icon_frown: and valves open only in acceleration?
Anyone else experiencing the remove-coil-and-no-effect issue, while engine seems to run fine?