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Fuse Box relocation / modification

Started by Sin_Tiger, March 24, 2016, 05:27:19 PM

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Sin_Tiger

It's been done a few times but not on a specific thread as far as I can see, so here's a bit of encouragement for anyone who has ever sworn and skinned their knuckles trying to get at the fuses and indicator relay stuffed under the real cowl or wished for a bit more under seat space to stow some gear.

The stock location of both the above is a bit of a problem just getting your fingers in there to remove the cover never mind reaching fuses without dripping blood from your skinned knuckles all over the place. The main 30A fuse is your safety and having not long ago had to get to it quickly I'd rather have quicker and clearer access to it. I like to carry some basics (often a lot more basics than most folk) and trying to optimise the under seat space without getting things like lamps broken was frustrating me. Additionally the fuse box is connected to the main loom by a rather large multi plug which although I check it for condition occasionally I do question why it's there other than to facilitate original production or fuse box replacement.

There are two levels you can go to here:-
1 - Relocate the fuse box and flasher relay without touching the loom and multi plug (you can gain a bit more space tucking the plug under the sub frame cross spar if you like.
2 - Go the whole hog and cut out the multi plug by soldering straight into the original fuse holders or just splice the wire ends together with but crimp / solder connectors as I did.

All the fuse boxes I've seen only have 5 fuses with a separate fuse holder for the brake light from 95 -> some circuit diagrams and photos I've seen show a 6 fuse box but that may be for some other models. Why the extra bake light fuse I'm not sure but if I can find an old fuse box to steal the connectors I'll incorporate the brake fuse in one of the spare slots or better still fit a 6 fuse model box to get rid of that pesky lonely fuse.

The indicator relay is originally held in place by a (usually rusty) spring clip, clipped into a usually also rusty plate riveted to the mud gaurd, when relocated I simply used some external grade double sided adhesive tape, how often to you need to change that?

The fuse box is held in place by a couple of M6 screws into captive nuts on the mud gaurd, you may find these just spin and you'll need to prise them out to release the fuse box, I bolted down in the new location with a couple of M6 bolts with nyloc nuts below. Manouevering the wiring around can be hard if it's cold with the age of the wiring so a bit of warmth helps, careful not to put any stress on the fuse box end and the multi plug if you're going to keep it. If you want to remove the cover on the underside of the fuse box for cleaning / inspection / modification, it's held in place by three tags that locate into the side of the box, two on one side, one on the other, none on the shorter sides (I forgot to take pics).

When positioning in the newer location forward of the cross spar, position it as far to the rear as possible to avoid contact with the seat underside but make sure you still have enough clearance to remove the box cover, about 5/6mm is enough, if you're not confident or have a non stock seat, tape it in place and do a dry clearance test before you drill holes.

Now is also a good time to check over your alarm connector for corrosion and if not used seal it up and if you want a bit more space it can be rerouted foward down the inside of the sub frame.

The space released under the cowl in considerable, so far I have, a full set of spare lamps and fuses in a bag, a small tool kit, a head torch, a bottle of Scottoiler fluid, a spark plug socket and a fly lead from the battery charger connection to a cig lighter end that can be used for a compressor / heated gear / chargers, depending on your preference there is easily enough space for a small compressor and puncture repair outfit instead.

If any additional photos are required, shout and I'll do my best to oblige.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

nickjtc

Well done, that man! Did much the same thing on my Steamer when I had it.
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

JoeDirt


threepot

That looks suspiciously like methadone st? And I noticed a syringe tucked away there? Something you want to reveal?? :augie
Nice job on the fuse box BTW. :thumbsup
95 Super111
96 Tiger

JayDub

Not one, but two 12mm allen keys! how extravagant  :icon_wink:

Good write-up, I've been meaning to do something about that waste of space. :eusa_clap

Sin_Tiger

Well spotted TP, it is indeed an old medication bottle but not happy juice  :nono the syringe is just a convenient method of filling the oiler, nothing more sinister.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

nickjtc

Quote from: JayDub on March 24, 2016, 08:23:29 PM
Not one, but two 12mm allen keys! how extravagant

Well, it does make turning the chain adjuster eccentrics in sync a little easier  :icon_wink:
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

JayDub

Line up one, tighten it, then line up the second, tighten... that's how we more 'space challenged' do it  :icon_wink:

Sin_Tiger

Quote from: nickjtc on March 24, 2016, 09:56:32 PM
Well, it does make turning the chain adjuster eccentrics in sync a little easier  :icon_wink:

Well spotted Nick, I got the long handled ones as well to make life easier  :thumbsup
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint