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Steel Line Folly

Started by Dyn Blin, August 02, 2016, 01:18:25 AM

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Ossian

I do it using an account in Photobucket to host the pictures and then link to them. There are lots of free photohosting sites I'm sure as well as Photobucket. If your image is already hosted somewhere use the square bracket img square bracket filename square bracket forward slash img squarebracket    method to put it into your posting here.

aesdj

Right here's some pictures. Hope this works.

















You carn't tell in the pictures but you've got about 4/5mm between the caliper body and the wheel spokes.


Dyn Blin

Those looks really, really, sharp.  Very nice work!

May I ask you to indulge in one more photo, showing the division of brake line over the front fender?
This is why we can't have nice things.

aesdj

Will do but you'll have to give me a couple of days as I've got to take my son and then my daughter to rugby practice.

thebiglad

Quote from: aesdj on September 13, 2016, 08:10:56 PM
Right here's some pictures. Hope this works.





Hi there aesdj, hope you don't mind me asking, but how do you get on with you MRA Vario-Touring screen? I was finding on my 2006 girly with the Ermax touring screen the turbulence and buffeting is really crap, so have just ordered the MRA one like yours. Hope it will help me????

Cheers
Dave
2006 Tiger 955i

Chris Canning

Interesting brake thread,my experience of changing radial levers and changing calipers the discs pay the price unless you run real full floaters

aesdj

Quote from: Chris Canning on September 15, 2016, 01:50:16 PM
the discs pay the price unless you run real full floaters

I'm guessing your saying the disc may/will warp. Here's  the write up for the disc's I baught :-

Tiger 995i (Cast wheel models only) Two EBC Prolite "Floating" rotors supplied.

Front Discs (1xPAIR)

These superbly engineered replacement "FLOATING" disc brake rotors will improve the braking of your bike significantly as well as addressing the distortion and warpage issues associated the stock Triumph rotors.

Thought a floating disc were like mine with the rivets to allow the braking surface to flex slightly and to aid cooling and stop them warpping. Take it this is not correct?


Chris Canning

Blimey could turn into an oil thread :icon_biggrin:,I changed the front stock master cylinder to a radial Accossato on my XT660 and the only option I had was an EBC like yours currently it's standing up quite well but in the true sense of the word it isn't a floating disc.

If you google Beringer or PFM they are true full floaters you shake them they rattle more like a musical instrument!!! When going over cobbled roads make a hell of a racket  :icon_frown: the good news the wear is fantastic the bad news they cost a fortune.

So after my waffle I'll be interested to see how yours stand up to a radial front lever because if anything is going to make the discs warp that will,that's not to say they will!!! :icon_lol: although if you were running stock Triumph discs you could be you life they would


SteveFord

aesdj,
Not to totally derail your thread but how do you like that tank cover?
Mine is starting to look like a rolling wart.

aesdj

The big lad, I get on with it great but being honest it's been along time since I've rode with the standard screen but it's definitely better than the stanbard one.

Chris, it hit me on the way to work that your on about the rattley ones. To me there more for track when they are running at the steels maximum expansion due to them not getting time to cool so they need alot of gap (and rattle) for the expansion. Don't  think you'll find many standard road bikes with them on as there not necessary for road use and the ones you will find are track spec bikes for the road. Like the Ducati 1199R which I'm guessing they have to sell so many to make them eligible for BSB/ World Super Bikes. Why do you think the master will make the discs warp? To my thinking it'll give you the same braking force but with less finger pressure and a better feel. Yes if you really want to stop fast it'll slow you up a hell of alot faster than standard but the uprated disc's should easily cope with it. It'll be the tyre (Anakee 2) that will be the limiting factor I would think.

SteveFord, I love the look and the protection it offers. Had it for maybe 4 years and it still looks like new. Must say that it only goes out in the dry between May and September and it's kept in a garage all other times.

aesdj

Dyn Blin here's the picture you wanted. Sorry it took so long to upload. Anyway I'm glad you asked for it for 2 reasons :-

1) Noticed the two 90 degree bends are starting to go rusty. Everything's stainless steel except those two bends and the 'T' that for some reason Venhill only do in chrome. Was a little disappointed about that but didn't think it would matter seeing as though I'm a fair weather rider now and that there up under the fairing. Rang them and they were great about it and said it must be a bad batch and they'd send me out some more but could I please send them back so they can figure out why they've started rusting so quickly.

2) It's reminded me to paint the horn bracket that I made to move it to the right to gain space for the new set.


aesdj

Ow and I've got copy right, pat pending and anything else I need to keep you lot off of this mod  :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol:

aesdj

Actually you lot can help me out. When I finished this mod I was pondering if I should change the standard pads to something else. Thinking EBC to match the disc's but I'd spent enough on it up to then so left it but it's constantly bugging me. Only done maybe 1000 miles so the disc's are still like new so I might do it this winter but is it that important or should I wait for the pads that came with the calliper's to need renewing. Nothing wrong with the pads feel/stopping power, just thinking that better pads may help the disc wear etc. Who makes Triumph's pads? I really don't know what to do for the best.

Dyn Blin

Quote from: aesdj on September 19, 2016, 08:20:16 PM
Dyn Blin here's the picture you wanted. Sorry it took so long to upload. Anyway I'm glad you asked for it for 2 reasons :-

1) Noticed the two 90 degree bends are starting to go rusty. Everything's stainless steel except those two bends and the 'T' that for some reason Venhill only do in chrome. Was a little disappointed about that but didn't think it would matter seeing as though I'm a fair weather rider now and that there up under the fairing. Rang them and they were great about it and said it must be a bad batch and they'd send me out some more but could I please send them back so they can figure out why they've started rusting so quickly.

2) It's reminded me to paint the horn bracket that I made to move it to the right to gain space for the new set.

Thanks for that- looks good and tidy and out of harm's way.   You made good work of it with not much room under there.

This is why we can't have nice things.

Sin_Tiger

EBC HH pads on EBC discs work very nicely and progressively with very low wear rate on the discs.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint