[Sin_Tiger]

 

[threepot]

Bob,thats more or less the method I used,thanks. I took one of the liners to Swansea Auto earlier to get their opinion? He basically confirmed 'min' wear to the bore, due to remaining cross hatching,no lip at the top,and there was no sharp edge on the ring. And the fact the end gaps were more or less in spec. He seemed a little surprised at the cost of replacement rings? So I'm happy leave as it is. Just waiting for valve removal tool now.

[Bixxer Bob]

Doesn't apply in your case, but if you remove the head for any reason, and you know the liners weren't leaking and you DO NOT MOVE THE CRANK.  AT ALL!!!  Clive recons you can get away without re-sealing.

[threepot]

Doesn't apply in your case, but if you remove the head for any reason, and you know the liners weren't leaking and you DO NOT MOVE THE CRANK.  AT ALL!!!  Clive recons you can get away without re-sealing.

Now he tells me

 :icon_wink:

Although there is something quite therapeutic,turning the crank,and watching 3 pistons move up and down!

[threepot]

Making 'slow' progress,due to work,but managed a few hrs today. I managed finally,to get that screw out from the front of the block!! What purpose do they play anyway? I've spent most of today 'touching up' the frame etc with some black metal paint,and general cleaning,but to be fair,the factory finish of the powder coating is very good.. I've taken off,checked the starter,and alternator,and re.painted them. Surprising how much crud builds up around them! Also cleaned water chamber around pistons,and cleaned out cyl HD bolt holes.Degreased the engine block. Took all connection blocks apart,and sprayed with acf50,and greased them. These little jobs eat into you time.
I'll make a start on the head soon. Then a list of parts to put it back together.

[Bixxer Bob]

Thats looking good 3 pot.  Don't forget it's important to make sure the head bolt holes are dry to avoid a hyraulic lock before they torque down on the head properly.  And, the threads should be wetted with oil if I remember rightly.

[threepot]

Thats looking good 3 pot.  Don't forget it's important to make sure the head bolt holes are dry to avoid a hyraulic lock before they torque down on the head properly.  And, the threads should be wetted with oil if I remember rightly.

Yes Bob,soaked up all old coolant from holes. Agree with lightly oiling threads,read somewhere. Also been told,it's OK to re-use bolts?

[Bixxer Bob]

Yes re-using the bolts is ok.

[threepot]

Worked on the head earlier. I bought a cracking valve removal tool on eBay for less than a tenner! Great quality,and it works a treat! Cleaned the head first,and it cleaned up nicely. WD40 and a small wire brush did a great job removing the carbon etc. Exhaust valves were all in spec the last time I checked,and there seems to be plenty of depth. But,inlets look more like pizza cutters!! I've been offered a used set by a friend,so I need to check them first.

[Timbox2]

But,inlets look more like pizza cutters!!......................................

OK then, I'll have anchovies on mine

And it might stop raining by the time your done, at least the roads are getting a nice clean

[threepot]

I've got friendly with a guy I meet at llandovery cafe over the last couple of years. He's got 2 mk1 Speed Triples,and a 1200 Daytona. I told him a while back about my impending 'head job',and he mentioned he had a spare set of inlet valves for me. So I drove several miles tonight to pick them up. 500 yards from his house,he phoned me,and said he had only managed to find 2! So,I got to his house,and he took me into his garage to show me the valves. Luckily, I had taken 1 off the Super3 with me to show him. And on inspection,they were different. He said that they were off a Trophy? But, where as the Super3 valve stem is the same size all the way to the head,these narrowed at the bottom? So,a wasted journey,but we both learned something? Anyway,he showed me a Norton he is building. Featherbed frame,roadholder forks,and a twin 650 engine,and a Manx replica tank. Looks nice,and 80% finished.
So driving home,I resigned myself to purchasing a new set of valves at about £180!! I thought I'd check e..y to see what was on there,and would you believe,a 'new' set of valves for £80 Now,the seller states that these will fit speed t,Daytona,tbird etc,and listed a part number T1130160. I did a quick check,and I'm almost sure these fit the early Hinckley's?
So,question. Is it advisable to fit 'new' valve seals?   Yes??

[Sin_Tiger]

Personally I would, after all the other work you've done.

[Sparky]

Try Ivan at National Triumph in Wolverhampton he charged me 50 pounds for a complete head for my old 98 Steamer.

[threepot]

Try Ivan at National Triumph in Wolverhampton he charged me 50 pounds for a complete head for my old 98 Steamer.

As it happens,I contacted him recently. He was selling a head,inc valves,off a Speedy. No shims though,so couldn't tell what state the valves were? But I asked him if he knew any difference between them? But he only advised on keeping original. Tbh,I don't think there is? My head doesn't look as if it's had any special treatment etc,as in porting? Can still see some rough casting marks etc. Which I suppose I could remove myself??

[Timbox2]

As it happens,I contacted him recently. He was selling a head,inc valves,off a Speedy. No shims though,so couldn't tell what state the valves were? But I asked him if he knew any difference between them? But he only advised on keeping original. Tbh,I don't think there is? My head doesn't look as if it's had any special treatment etc,as in porting? Can still see some rough casting marks etc. Which I suppose I could remove myself??

According to my Hinkley book, if its accurate,  new heads were produced for the SIII as well as "Crankcase Modifications"??? Main thing was comp ratio went from 10.6 to 12.1 and valve lift/opening increased by revised cam profiles. I have heard though that a popular tuning mod for the Speed Triples was to fit 750 pistons to raise compression.
That Clive Woods bloke would probably know for sure.