Clutch Drag late 955's and 1050's

[Timbox2]

Dont know much about this but on the 1050 forum there is talk of a mod which involves machining or filing the clutch push rod to allow more oil onto the plates, might be worth looking into if you have this issue. Its well known on 1050's but in theory 955's with the 1050 cases and the 10 plate clutch could be affected.

Of interest on the very latest Tiger Sports you have to measure the clutch pack height and adjust with different thickness steel plates to get a specific thickness when replacing

[HockleyBoy]

Having this problem again on my 955 (06 model with 1050 clutch). If it all gets hot I have to adjust the cable as it gets a bit of slack in it.

Not going to file the rod for the time being but will be replacing the steel plates and checking the clutch basket shortly. I have already replaced the friction plates, rod and most of the other parts.

[Timbox2]

Having this problem again on my 955 (06 model with 1050 clutch). If it all gets hot I have to adjust the cable as it gets a bit of slack in it.

Not going to file the rod for the time being but will be replacing the steel plates and checking the clutch basket shortly. I have already replaced the friction plates, rod and most of the other parts.

Having been in 1050 land for a little while Ive picked up some info about the issue, apparently quite a few 1050 Tigers in 2007/08 had this issue from the factory, Triumphs fix at the time was to get them back remove the clutch and soak the plates in engine oil over night, many report this fixed it for quite a while, a guy called Hamlin who runs a Triumph workshop came up with a fix that gets round removing the clutch:  Basically, you over fill the bike with engine oil and get the bike leaned over to the right as much as possible, (45%)  without letting fall, straps or wood blocks etc, then leave it again overnight with the clutch lever zip tied back to the handle bars. Obviously you dont start the engine next day until youve drained the excess out. He maintains this has fixed the majority of bikes that have come through his workshop.  Im still waiting on finding out what the filing/machining mod involves

[Timbox2]

Ok, bit more info. Seems Triumph themselves have modded the clutch rod, came in on a VIN number sometime in 2013/4 on the Tiger Sport. It has a spiral oil way machined into the rear section. Some people are saying this is an upgrade for all 1050's and yet Triumph still list both on the parts fiche? And Ive found 1 guy who modded his own by machining but in fact is still having issues anyway, type of oil is getting blamed too but not sure how accurate that is.

[HockleyBoy]

Like you I have read loads on the subject regarding various fixes and mods but none seem to be definitive. As far as my own bike is concerned I believe the problem is worn/old parts as the problem did not manifest itself until I had over 85k miles on the clock. Pretty sure the oil type is a red herring as have used the same oil for about 170k miles on two 955i Tigers and haven't experienced the problem until very recently.

As I haven't changed the steels I am going there next and will also do some work on the clutch basket to remove and notches which will hopefully improve the situation. Might see if I can get a 2013 Tiger clutch rod and put it in while I am there as hopefully its a relatively cheap part.

If I was starting again I would probably go with something like this from the start (hindsight is a wonderful thing)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Surflex-Complete-Clutch-Plate-Upgrade-Kit-Triumph-1050-Tiger-06-11-/322378566707?epid=1354460321&hash=item4b0f428c33:g:LhYAAOSwAuZX2pgb;=-

[HockleyBoy]

So I finally got in there at the weekend and replaced the steels, also did use a bit of wet and dry on the basket to see if it would help (changed the oil at the same time).

No difference! The clutch lever is nice and firm when I get the bike out of the garage in the morning, 30 miles later in traffic I am having to adjust loads of slack out of the cable as I ride or the clutch will drag like mad when I next stop.

The only clutch parts I haven't changed are the actual basket, basket centre and the spring at the back.

New basket and centre are ridiculously expensive from Triumph (more than the bike is worth) and most of the ones on ebay look similar to mine.

So I am now at a bit of a loss, any suggestions would be much appreciated.

[Timbox2]

Ive asked the question for you over on the 1050 forum, there are a couple of guys there, notably a guy called Hamlin who runs a Cycle Dealer in the states and who seems very knowledgeable on clutch issues

[HockleyBoy]

Thanks, any input would be really useful

[HockleyBoy]

Another question, anyone know if a 955i clutch from a 2005 bike will fit into the 2006 with the 1050 casings? I happen to have two complete engines in the garage both with less miles than my current bike so I could possibly swap the whole clutch over.

[HockleyBoy]

Resurrecting, have been living with the clutch issue for some time and it has been mostly ok in winter but as it warms up again my problems will start.

Has anyone tried a Surflex clutch kit?

If I cant fix this I am going to need a new summer bike (KTM 1290 Adventure S is favourite at the moment)!

[Chris Canning]

Can't help with the clutch but when I see a 17000 mile 955 on eBay and they still can't sell it a replacement isn't going to be much of a problem.

[HockleyBoy]

Can't help with the clutch but when I see a 17000 mile 955 on eBay and they still can't sell it a replacement isn't going to be much of a problem.

I know what you mean, mine was dirt cheap to start with so they are not going to sell for too much now. Will probably risk another £160 and an hour or so's work on a new clutch before I buy another bike. Don't think I will go for another old Girly thought if I do, its probably time for something modern.

[woodwizzard]

I am currently looking to buy an 06 registered in 07, 38k on the clock and has just had a new clutch fitted. Do all the 06 bikes suffer from this or is it pot (bad) luck?

[Lee337]

Not all of them do, although mine does when it gets hot. There's a specific order to put the clutch plates in which I'm told stops the clutch from dragging. Below is the text I found together with a diagram. Don't know if it works yet, but when I have to replace my clutch (it's done almost 65,000 miles), I'll give it a go.

clutch has 2 types of friction plates and 2 types of steel plates..seems not many people put them in the correct order as mine(serviced etc by triumph).

first sort friction plates..2 are different,1 goes in first the 4 thick steel plates and friction plates in between, then thinners steel plates with the other friction plates leaving the other odd friction plate till last which slots into the top of the basket, not as the others..i did oil the friction plates before replacing and check thickness was correct...have now done a fair few miles and always get neutral when needed and goes up and down the box with no clunking or drag...

[woodwizzard]

Thanks for that Lee. Might be worth a look then. I did wonder if it may have an issue, as 38k seems low miles for a new clutch.