tankerman and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Enjoying your efforts and I did consider writing up Edna's story but I don't want this forum to turn into a Trophy shed.
Is your rear caliper a top mount?
The reason I asked about the caliper mounting is that Daytona's, Mk2 Throphy's and Sprint Executives have the underslung calipers which are attached to the frame by a torque arm rather than directly to the swing arm on others. The caliper carrier plate has a needle roller bearing (yes another one ) to allow the caliper to move relative to the frame when the swing arm moves. Every one I've ever taken apart has been seized as have the bushes for the torque arm at both the caliper carrier and frame ends. I have often had to resort to drilling out bush bolts or welding plates on to get them apart. If it doesn't swing freely, it will put undue force on the suspension, particularly during braking with higher compression load on the rear. I suspect many people blame shocks for deteriorating handling when it could be down to neglected maintenance on these three vital points. It's not a problem with the top mounts but I strongly suggest refitting the bolt through the torque arm and caliper carrier with some blue locking fluid, I've had one come loose and fall out on the Steamer the tiny lug to limit the carrier movement breaks very easily and then the caliper will hit the swing arm when you brake and swings back until the brake hose stops it going the other way. Slightly unnerving even if you are going very slowly Where the YSS preload adjuster rings are positioned, that earlier mudguard flap can be in the way for adjusting them, it's a problem on the Steamer with the stock shock. I modified the bottom, instead of riveting on directly, I made two small plates to fit either side of the flap and then used alloy M5 rivnuts and SUS cap screws through the lower steel angle plate to secure it. Two benefits as I see it, the plates have a more even hold on the rubber flap and so the rivets are less likely to pull out (not enough room to fit larger washers) and removing 3 screws to allow the flap to be moved clear to adjust the preload saves me struggling trying to hold the nuts below the swing arm and turn the screws above at the same time.