The End is Near

[JetdocX]

I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

In October sometime I took my 98 Steamer apart......a lot......

I spent some quality time cleaning the innards a bit and deciding what needs replacing, upgrading, etc.  The list was long.

I finally got the final valve shim from Triumph this evening and was able to button the engine up.

My forks and rear shock should be in the brown truck mail for tomorrow and I think that's all I need to put this thing back together.  Just in time for a nice snowstorm, I'm assuming will happen the middle of next week or so.

I may decide to tweak the carb jetting to account for the extra right side airbox or just leave it capped depending on how hard the snow is coming down.

I'll post a write-up with a few pix when I'm done.  

Almost there!

[nightrunner]

Congrats man!  Let us know how she rides.

[JetdocX]

Well, strike one!  The rear shock is for some other bike, not my Steamer.   There's another month-long wait at least.

[Mudhen]

Well, strike one!  The rear shock is for some other bike, not my Steamer.   There's another month-long wait at least.

That SUCKS.  Who did you order it from???

[JetdocX]

Traxxion Dynamics.  I sent a message last night and I'm waiting for a reply.  I see no reason for them to not make it right.  Fingers crossed.

[JetdocX]

Visual progress!!!!!

My bike turned 27,000 miles this October.  I am doing a 24K mile check.

Oil change and then....

I started by pulling the plastic off.  I didn't like what I saw.  I pulled the exhaust muffs to re-rivet the rattling Triumph emblems.




Lots of old rubber, crappy brake hoses, leaky rear shock, brake and clutch fluid was green and murky, fork oil unknown....

So I pulled some more stuff off to get to the valve train to check clearances:


Only two of the twelve were in spec.  Mostly tight but one was loose.



Finding the right thickness shims was an excercise in extreme patience and frustration.  I think it took me the better part of a month to get the valve train properly clearanced.

I absolutely hate squishy suspension.  This bike is really bad front and rear.  Sometimes when cruising the bike would be rocking front to rear in a feedback-resonance thing going on between the forks and the rear shock.  On dirt roads and washboards :shock:  look out!  Very poorly handling in all conditions.  I had enough.
I yanked the rear shock:


I sent the front forks to Traxxion Dynamics for gold valve emulators, stronger springs and different oil.  

I bought one of these:


But it didn't fit and I had to send it back to Penske for a longer hose and a different bottom fork.  I got it back in about a week.

The external reservoir goes in the same place as the stocker:


Modified front forks reinstalled with new Galfer brake lines:


I also installed a Signal Dynamics LED voltage warning.  Its the small black box ty-wrapped and RTV'ed to the subframe and the single LED on the panel.  I had one on my Beemer and it's trick gear for sure.

[JetdocX]

Make sure you check the throttle cable when you have the carbs out.  Why?  Changing one on the trail is close to impossible.



New coolant hoses and clutch hose:


Rear master cylinder and new supply and brake hose:


Rear brake hose run:


New final drive = $120 (chain and sprogs)  Eat your heart out BMW!


New shoes, too!


I've had parts and pieces all over the garage in in many bins for a couple months while this is going on.  I'm glad to be down to bins #1 and #2.


I can shove it into the corner now and park the truck indoors for the winter! :D   It's starting to look a lot like a bike again and I'm happy to be this far along.  Cant' wait to go out and try the new suspenders.


Got shims?


More to come as I get the time.

[TigerTrax]

Hey jetdox..

While you are at it....

CONSIDER replacing stock igniters & wires
with Daytona .... really enhances performance.
You'll have to go to about 2005.

If you do not have them on your list...
Baxter Cycle in Marne, Iowa for parts.

[JetdocX]

How much?  I'm into this project for quite a bit and I dare say more than the bike is probably worth.

DO the stock high tension wires work or do I need new wires, too?

Part number, by chance?

[Mustang]

while the daytona coils are ok ........I just have one word NOLOGY
they are by far the best coils available for a triumph and only 65 bucks each .
Bike will start easier and even feels more powerful

[JetdocX]

Nology has no application for a 98.  It also cautions against using this system in a CDI ignition.  I don't know whether I have a CDI, but I do have a big Gill electronic ignition unit under the intrument panel on the left side.

[Mustang]

http://www.nologyhotwires.com/
sure they do cause they are on my 98 steamer got them from new level motorsports  :D Nology ProFire Ignition Coil for Triumph Motorcycles 152-001-060T$64.99
the box under the dashboard is the cdi box for the ignition or ecu if you will when that goes south you will wish money grew on trees  , ask me how I know ! :shock:

[JetdocX]

Thanks for finding that.  I could not find it on the Nology website application catalog.

I have the site bookmarked.

[Mustang]

they make a huge differance in the way the beast runs ! you 'll know when it's time for the coils , under a good load 1 cylinder will go bye bye and then come back on like a freight train at about 4500 rpm
Triumph Gill coils are 125 bucks each and suck . the nologys give a good burn and you can really notice it under load ie . full throttle or quick handfuls of throttle where it used to bog it giddy ups , to be fair mine is rejetted and running a 4 degree timing advance also ! but man doe s it go !
I am curious where you got 2 sprockets and a chain for 120 bucks , I can't find a chain for that price let alone 2 sprockets also , my average is 200-220 for a chain and sprocket job
I see you went with t66's , have you ever tried Tourances on it ? I like the metzlers much better , more rapid turn in and they last a lot longer too ! for me anyway.
the original showa shock is a real pc of work aint it , replaced mine a few years ago with an Ohlins when they were a lot cheaper than they are now !
As long as you are doing all of this preventative maint , it would'nt hurt to have a spare igniter p/u on hand cause they seem to always go south right around 25 k , been there done that twice , once on each steamer , yes I have two . well actually the 95 is the wifes she bought it in July 95 and loves it , she's the reason I bought one .

[JetdocX]

I'm beginning to think I need coils the way you describe the situation.....plus the mounting ears on one coil are broken off so I have to ty-wrap it to the mount.
I bought new plug wires, will the new coils work with the OEM cables?

Not going with the timing advance due to my fear of cylinder/piston damage.  I may in the future if someone can show me this does not affect the longevity of the engine.

I think my chain and sprogs cost about $200.  Still way cheaper than a big GS final drive though! :D

I put the Michelin Anakees (not T66's) on this time around.  I liked them on my F650 and I'll probably like them here, too.

I'll report back on the suspension upgrade.  It can't be anywhere near as bad as the stock suspenders.

25K on the igniters???  I have 27K on it right now.  I think you just helped me make up my mind. :lol: