More DAR repairs w/ pics!!

[offtheback]

I have edited the original post with pictures from steammoto's sprag rebuild pictures,  you can tell his pics but the silver motor and the oil pump cover removed, you do not have to do that..

Well, I finally received the upgraded alternator bolt and spindle kit (ordered it from local TI dealer and it was here in less than a week, plus they had a 20% off sale on special orders :D ).

Well I did not take as many pics as I should have, maybe you others can add some of yours.  First off I have Hepco engine guards which required me to remove the side panels, seat, tank, airbox and carbs so I could get to the nuts on the rear motor mounts.  My big meat hooks could not fit in there, I tried..  The process is much quicker if you do not have to take those steps..



Well step 1 was to assemble all the goodies. L to R.. Upgraded bolt kit with longer bolt from hardware store (did not use, more later), clutch and alternator gasket (already had the alternator off once to replace cush and diagnose clutch side bolt break so I figured I better replace it this time, manual, Ipod w/ tunes, beer selection, oil, and some coolant (not needed).



I removed the clutch cylinder and ziptyed to keep the diapragm in place whilst I worked, it is nearly impossible for me to get to the lower alternator bolt with the clutch line in the way and since I removed everything else..



I removed the R footpeg to facilitate clutch cover removal and access. The centre nut is a pain to remove.  I placed the bike in first gear and applied the back brake, as directed in the manual, but I felt that I was putting a lot of strain on the tranny without using the service tool to engage the centre drum to the outer basket, so I borrowed and electric impact wrench and viola!  This picture is steammoto using his home made tool to keep the centre drum and outerbasket from moving, slick!!



Removed the centre drum and you are left with the outer drum.  As you can see the gear on the outer drum is larger than the opening and you have to twist it out but there is no room.  I wiggled the outer drum back and forth a bit until I  could pull out the splined collar with some needle nose pliers and then it was easy to remove the drum.  



Once I had the drum out the alternator drive gear just fell out.  The gears in the picture from the top are alternator drive gear, auxilary drive gear, and the bottom is the oil pump drive gear. When I removed the alternator it stuck a bit and I about shat when the alternator shaft moved out a bit.  All I could think about was sprag falling and splitting the case but I was lucky..




 I took the new shaft and my longer bolt but I could not get it to thread.  After looking at the bolt I noticed how the rattling had stripped the threads on it and the inside so I had to push the shaft in  :lol: .



Once I had it in I threaded the bolt and tightened it to 35 Nm.  Now the fun started.  I put the auxilary drive gear back in place and then the outer drum.  You have to align the inner teeth of the auxilary drive gear with that of the outer drum and then thread the splined collar through.  I had my wife rotate the alternator shaft while I peered through the center of the outer drum and used a screwdriver to align the teeth.  I tried several times to push the splined collar in, I finally just left it in and slowly rotated the outer drum while I GENTLY tapped the collar with a rubber mallet and voila!  Put it all back together, making sure the 'OUT' on the Belleville washer was facing out, and fill with oil, oh yeah I drained the oil also..  



After seeing the bolt and realizing that if it all broke loose there would be a motor melt down.  If I suspected the bike with a clutch side break I would not ride it until it was fixed, IMO.  What a difference in the sound of the bike, now it just purrs like a kitten.  The DAR rattle is VERY pronounced and not hard to miss.  The minor diesel sound on idle I can see, many bikes have it but the DAR wow...

This is just my experience, I wish I had more pics..  Please add if you can.  It really was not that hard to do.  I am willing to help anyone in the Colorado area if you need it..  Thanks again to Steammoto.  Abruzzi will be posting his exploits also so stay tuned..

[abruzzi]

I haven't posted my report yet, but for the final version do you mind if I swipe a few of your pics?

We found the hardest part was remounting the outer clutch basket and inner bearing/gear.  The gear behind it that had to be balanced between the alternator gear and the oil pump gear kept falling out of alignment.  A real pain in the a$$.

Geof

[offtheback]

No, I welcome it.  I had the same issue.  Put the gear in place and then put the outer drive in and had my wife rotate the alternator drive while I aligned the auxilary drive gear with the outer drive with a screw driver (head lamp was very helpful).  That is when I put the splined collar in as far as it would go and gently tapped on it, worked awesome.

[BR]

Nice write up on this-- wish there were more pics!  
I'm starting to think that I may need to do some exploratory digging on my '98 to confirm the condition of both the alt bolt and gear bolt on the clutch side.  A few questions:
The "kit" includes revised bolt, washer and the replacement shaft? (cost?)
Old alt shaft replaced by simply pushing in the new to gently push out the old (so sprag doesn't fall)?  From which side, clutch or Alt?

Thanks,

Brendan R.
San Jose, CA
'98 BRG Tiger

[abruzzi]

The easiest check is to remove the alternator.  If the bolt is broken on the alt side you will see it.  If not broken, but there is play on the shaft, it's broken on the other side.

To replace, you push the shaft through from the clutch side.  I didn't buy the kit, but the parts by them self, about $150.

Geof

[BR]

Well... pulled my alt and found nothing!  Everything is tight, nothing broken.  No play in/out and only the slightest rotational slop that's barely perceptable (normal gear lash from drive gears behind clutch).  Only after doing this and again looking at the exploded parts dwg from that other DAR post did I realize that there is only one long bolt from the clutch side to the alt side.  I had been thinking there was a bolt on each end of the alt shaft.  Anyway, with the Alt removed, I can clearly see the nut and the end of the long bolt there....(an aha! moment).  No point in pulling the clutch cover now... My engine does sound a bit mechanical at low revs so I thought there was a chance something was loose.  Funny thing is, I've never seen or heard  another Steamer in person to make a comparison.
Thanks for the help,

Brendan
'98 BRG Steamer

[Dr. Mordo]

Very nice post, Greg!

[abruzzi]

Only after doing this and again looking at the exploded parts dwg from that other DAR post did I realize that there is only one long bolt from the clutch side to the alt side.  I had been thinking there was a bolt on each end of the alt shaft.  Anyway, with the Alt removed, I can clearly see the nut and the end of the long bolt there....(an aha! moment).

What you "thought" was the original design.  What you saw was the revised design.  So you have less to worry about, failure on the revised design seems pretty rare.

Geof

[offtheback]

Thanks for the kind words Mordo..

I just have to finish putting on the heated grips and converting the rims to tubeless.. and RIDE!!