First Timer Chain Replacement

[ericgfx]

I am hoping to do my first chain replacement for my '05 Tiger. I was going to order the Chain (F/Drive 114L, DID 114 Link - 5567856-001 @ $205), Rear Sprocket (SPROCKET, 46T - 5567967-001 @ $65), and a drive sprocket(xx??)

Questions are:
Which engine do I have (Engine No. 220358 and higher, or No. 220357 and lower)?
What drive sprocket to order?
I want high quality parts that will last, are the OEM from BikeBandit good enough or are there other recommendations?
Should I order/replace anything else while I'm at it?
Any special tools?


Gracious,
Eric

[JetdocX]

DID makes a chain for you (530VM X ring).  Your sprogs can be had from JT and a couple others.  Bikebandito is really slow these days.  Try to source locally if possible.  Chains and sprogs are common parts with lots of sources.

[Ocelotl]

I just got an EK 530 MVXZ X-RING CHAIN 120 LINKS from fleabay for $109 shipped. They were out of the plain steel ones so they upgraded to a gold-colored one--cool.

The sprockets, I ordered stock-size sprockets at my local dirtbike shop. JTF1180.18T ($24.99) for the countersprocket and JTR2010.48T ($57.99) for the sprocket.

I'll have to cut the chain down to 114 links, but luckily I bit the bullet some time ago and purchased a good chain breaker/riveter.

I don't think engine or VIN number should matter when it comes to chains, but what do I know? I went to my friendly local dealer and they turned me away because I did not know the VIN number when I wanted to buy a headlight (the glass part). Sigh. So I got it from BikeBandit, even if it took 3 weeks to receive it.

HTH,
-f-

[Tom Herold]

VIN doesn't matter when it comes to the chain and sprockets, they're pretty generic when it comes to model years.

The biggest thing to know is if you want stock gearing, or if you want ot change it to accomodate your riding style.

I've been using www.sprocketcenter.com for a couple of years now. With 3 Triumphs in the garage, the maintenance schedules can be a bit crazy at times.

The guy at the sprocket center has always delivered on-time, will answer any questions and offer sound advice.  They don't carry junk, and won't compromise price for quality, that's why I keep going back.  I've purchased 3 sprocket (JT Sprockets) and chain sets (DID X-Ring) this year alone and have been very happy. One of my riding buddy's has started doing business with his also, and has similar experiences.

It's better to give him a call since the web-site isn't all inclusive of their inventory: 888-265-2141. He's out in California, so you might have to compensate for the time.

As far as doing the work, it's pretty straight forward and can be done in a couple of hours depending on tool availability:

- Pull the front sprocket/drive gear cover. These are 8mm bolts, the top right one is in a tight space, so a 1/4 dirve is in order here if you have one.

- Put the bike in gear, then loosen the locking tabs on the drive sprocket nut, and with a helper holding down the rear brake lever firmly, break the sprocket nut loose. This thing is torqued on tightly, I use a breaker bar, socket, and a lot of ass to do this...

- After the front drive sprocket is loose, cut the chain or use a specific tool designed for breaking it.  I use a tool designed to both break and rivet. They can be expensive, but I have 3 chain driven bikes, so it' paid for itself after the first two uses.....

- After the chain is removed, finish removing the front drive sprocket. Take note of the washer, most advocate replacing it everytime, some say you can reuse it, it's a matter of choice. I've done both depending on how beat up the locking washer looked and have no ill effects either way.

- Remove the rear wheel, paying attention to the wheel spacers and their location. Remove the old sprocket and install the new sprocket, making sure to torque the nuts down to their proper spec.  Remount the wheel with the spacers in their proper place, then the rear brake caliper.  Might as well inspect and clean the caliper, check the rotor specs and replace pads if needed while you're here. Its an easy job and might save time in the future.

- Install the front drive sprocket and washers in their proper order and snug down, but don't try to torque into place yet.

- With the bike in neutral, install the new chain and link it together with the master link.  These bikes use a riveted type master link. If you don't have the riveting tool, you can trailer your bike over to a shop and they'll do it for a fee. If you do have a riveter, simply follow the instructions.

- Once the chain is linked together, put the bike back into gear, gather up your helper and have them firmly apply the rear brake while you torque the dirve sprocket nut to it's proper spec.  Then follow the owners manual instructions for setting the chain tension and making sure the rear wheel is properly aligned.

- Re-install the front sprocket cover and chain guide.

- Clean the chain and lube it up with a quality lubricant, recheck your chain tension and adjust if neccessary, and go for a ride.  Recheck the tension after a hunderd or so miles and adjust if needed.

- Enjoy a quieter and smoother shifting machine!

[AndyM]

Eric,

I see you're in Oakland. give the folks at California Sport Touring in Hercules a call. They can set you up with everything you need for a very good price.

You will need a rivet tool to do the chain. A dremel with a cut-off wheel makes taking off the old chain easy. I have both tools and am just a few miles from you.

Andy

[darmah]

If you are into spending more $ than is req'd go D.I.D. , Tsubaki. If you want to turn a lot of miles for far less$ the EK is very capable. I am on my second EK @ 105k miles and it has done far better than the others previous. Get a good chain breaker , riveter for what you will save! the folks at Riderwarehouse have a good combo. Don't scrimp on the tool to rivet tough.
 BTW Ocelotl I am in Spicewood, Tx

[Stretch]

Darmah, you have 105,000 miles on your Tiger?  Bitchin!

[darmah]

The miles should be more, I was out of commission for four months last winter as my shock blew out, then the replacement unit I ordered came with wrong lower fitting.  I live in Austin and work in San Antonio ;96mi ea. way. On a good week that's close to 1k. I average 2,800/ mo. before the weekend rides. However I stand aside as my amigo Hank rides by. He has 440k mi on a '95 GS and is presently in Ecuador on the way to Tierra d F.
Read his blog @   motohank.com

 On the chain, I found that I am creating seal wear debris on the RK and DID at about 14k miles even with regular lubes. The EK s have given me near 20k+.

[Stretch]

Righteous!

[JasonS]

I just got in a 19 tooth sprocket and have it installed... it was a tight fit to gfet the old off and the new on... like a 20 tooth might not fit..

The old sprocket has what I would assume is noise/vibration canceling rubber on the side of the sprocket. They seem to cushion the plates...??

I would assume there is a difference??

[Stretch]

The Triumph sprockets have the rubber damper to cushion the chain plates and quieten the working bits.  Aftermarket sprockets don't have the rubber, but it's not required.  With a non-worn-out chain in proper adjustment, the drive is still smooth and quiet.

[darmah]

In the old days they called them clutch dampners. They were to cushion the final drive sprocket and chain from excessive force when accelerating heavily, eg.. dumping the clutch, burn outs, wheelies (my favorite). We would see the small bore enduros come in with a mere sliver of rubber still lodged in the inside of the sprocket housing. You can tell the wear on those by slipping the clutch out and watching the movement of the sprocket before anything occurs at the wheel itself. Much better material these days.
 Mine are still in OK condition (not great) after 110K miles and a lot of the aforementioned juvenile hijinks.

[cdubya]

114 links is stock...does going to a 19t countershaft sprocket warrant a longer chain or is the slightly larger diameter negligible?
Also, I've read that steel is more durable than aluminum. The hard anodized T6 aluminum Renthal Sprockets sure are purdy. Any additional opinions? Is it ok to run a steel front and an aluminum rear sprocket?
Thanks fellas.

[Mustang]

114 will work fine with the 19t

I usually use the steel JT sprockets but have used the alloy rears before and the wear rate is pretty close to the same

[cdubya]

Thanks Mustang.
Anyone know the counter shaft sprocket nut size for an '05 Girly? I expect a socket that large is going to be spendy.  :shock: