Daytona coil

[Papalobster]

I plan on upgrading my coils to the stick type (Because I don't have $200 for Nology coils) and find that there are loads of 675 Daytona coils to be had for fairly cheap.

Does anyone know if the 675 coils are the same as the TT600 coils?

[FJWinNH]

This is a very good question.  I am a new forum member.  I joined specifically to find out more info about Triumph stick coils that some folks have been using on their Steamers.  I have an '01 Trophy 900 and want to convert the stock Gill coils to to coil-over-plug stick coils.  I have already scored a set of the 675 Daytona coils from eBay ($20 for 3) and am having some problems getting them working right.

Here's my post from the TriumphRat Trophy forum:

Received the coil-over-plug caps from eBay today. Again, these coils were listed as being the correct part for an '06-'09 Daytona 675. The coils are marked "Denso 129700 5020 JO502 Japan". They measure 1.2 ohms primary resistance and 11.6k ohms on the secondarys with a digital multimeter. I constructed a simple harness to jumper between the normal coil wires and the new coil/cap terminals. It was a tight fit getting the middle coil in under the center frame tube, but it did just wiggle in.

The bike started and ran with them installed. The bad news is that the tachometer immediately started to act up. At a low idle it was registering something (incorrect), but as soon as the rpms were raised the tach needle fell to zero. Bah!!

I tried swapping the primary leads. Unlike the stockers, these coils are unmarked +/-. And I tried swapping the #1 and #3 coils as I recall that the tach is driven off the #1 (I believe?). No joy.

Reinstalled the stock Gill coils and it runs normally again. I have read that guys on the Steamer Forum (Carburetted Tiger 900's) have swapped in these same kind of coils from TT600's. I wonder if their primary impedance on the TT600 coils is more like the stock Trophy coils.


I don't think my stock coils are bad (yet) as the engine seems to run just fine with them in now, after carb cleaning. I was just looking for a better mousetrap. I'll keep messing around with these before I give up on them all together.

I'm wondering if the TT600 coils have similar resistance measurements as the coils for the late model Daytonas.

[nightrunner]

Welcome.

Sorry to hear of your troubles.  I'm using the TT600 coils and will help if I can.  I just checked my spare coil with ohmmeter.  Primary is reading 0.9 ohms, and secondary reading 11.6K ohm.  I would not be concerned about 1.2 versus 0.9 ohms just yet.  I'm not sure the meter is that accurate at near zero resistance.  I will check it on a better meter at work.

Damn, I hope the 675 coils did not fry your tach.  I've been running the TT coils for several K miles and the tach works fine.  Also I did not notice any polarity either so just guessed.  I think I reversed one too and it still worked fine.  

Visually the TT coil is a bit different.  That skinny section between the rubber boot and the "shank" is not there.  The "shank" comes all the way to the rubber.  The connector section looks the same.

Part # on mine is 129700-3990.  That J# appears to be a date.  Mine is J0399

Based on the OP, if the tach is driven off #1 plug, then maybe reverse the polarity on #1 coil.  Perhaps the pick-up requires a certain polarity.

[FJWinNH]

Thanks very much for the welcome and for the resistance readings on the TT600 coils.  I also managed to find one reference on here  to someone who ordered a set of the late model Daytona coils (like mine) that has them working, so I am now convinced there is something wrong with at least one of my eBay coils.  

Also, not to worry, as I mentioned in my quoted post above, I stuck the original Gill coils back in the bike and everything goes back to normal operation, so the tach is just fine.

On the Trophy forum, one of they guys though that the tach signal might be a derivative of the #1 and #3 coil primary signals, so if either one of those coils was bad it would cause my wacky tach symptom.  I will do some more troubleshooting when I get a chance and see where that leads me.

Thanks again...

[Papalobster]

On my 98, the tach signal wire wore through and grounded to the gauge frame. It was a new tach. I doubt the grounded signal wire damaged the tach, but I'm not so sure of the igniter.

On the wiring diagram, it shows the tach signal wire to T into the #1 coil wire before the igniter. This really isn't teh case, the tach signal has it's own trace on the igniter board and goes right to a small resistor.

I'm hoping that the upgraded coils will help cold weather starts. I ride to work every day there isn't snow on the ground and some of the 20-30 degree days tax the bike systems!

[FJWinNH]

Yeah, on the T300's (Trophys, Daytonas, S3's, etc) the wiring diagram has a separate wire coming from the Igniter.  Whatever magic happens inside the Igniter to form the tach signal is sort of a mystery.

[nightrunner]

Cant say if better coils wil help with cold starts.  Maybe.  What made a huge improvement for me was going up one size on the both pilot and main jets.  Used to be cold blodded but fires right up now.

[Colonel Nikolai]

I picked up a sick 96 steamer with what I thought were bad carbs. Now I'm not so sure. Starts and idles fine. Symptoms are: a huge stumble from a dead stop, like a cylinder going out until around 4,000 RPM then all the power surges back like a rocket and the bike is like it should be.

I checked the coils with two different ohmmeters. My digital one says primary resistance is basically 0.0, secondary resistance is between 7,400-7,900 on each coil. My analog one says 0.0 and 6,000 on each of the three coils.

The manual says 0.63 primary and 10,500 secondary, but I'm just checking: can all three coils be so consistently off?

[BR]

I got mine off of flea-bay a few yrs ago for something like $40 based on the experiences of others.  I'm quite sure it helped my '98 run better. It still runs like shi* initially after it sits for a few weeks but it's not the coils!  These are Daytona 600 coil sticks... it's a 4 cyl so I've got an extra.



Brendan
'98 Steamer

[nightrunner]

I picked up a sick 96 steamer with what I thought were bad carbs. Now I'm not so sure. Starts and idles fine. Symptoms are: a huge stumble from a dead stop, like a cylinder going out until around 4,000 RPM then all the power surges back like a rocket and the bike is like it should be.

I checked the coils with two different ohmmeters. My digital one says primary resistance is basically 0.0, secondary resistance is between 7,400-7,900 on each coil. My analog one says 0.0 and 6,000 on each of the three coils.

The manual says 0.63 primary and 10,500 secondary, but I'm just checking: can all three coils be so consistently off?

That is exactly how mine ran when the coils were going out and I wasted a lot of time chasing carb problems.    The thing is that the coils will ohm out just fine but still be bad; mine did anyway.  Do the Nology or TT600 or 675 coils swap.  If the stock coils are not bad now they will be soon enough its not a waste of time either way.

[MIMbox]

Don't forget, if swapping to TT600 coils etc, to get the loom with connectors for the mod.
My'96 has run TT coils for 2 seasons, with no probs. They are neater, give more clearance under tank/carb area, and I would recommend them as an upgrade.

[nightrunner]

You can buy the loom with connectors???????   I ran jumper wires and used little female spade connectors to connect to the coils.

[Colonel Nikolai]

Okay. I got the Nology Profire coils and replaced existing ones. Still having the same exact problem: bike splutters under load from a dead stop. Power surges back at around 3700 RPM.

I replace the plug wires with wires that are perfect from my Sprint (exact same wires). No dice, still.

I remove plug #3 and lo and behold the plug is covered with black, shiny ooze and mottled, scaly deposits. Looking down into the cylinder I see black sludge and yellow/white scale (yikes! never seen that before).

I have not yet tested the pickup coil, but now it seems like it could be valves, pickup coil or maybe still bad carbs. At this point I'm thinking of taking it to the dealer. I don't think I could rebuild the carbs if that is the root cause. If the problem is a burnt valve or something, lord help me.

My 96 Triumph Sprint has never given me these kinds of issues, and currently has 44k on it odo. This Steamer has only 28k!

[JetdocX]

Col. Nik, you may be getting coolant into one cylinder through a leaky head gasket.  Are you losing coolant?  What does your oil look like?

If it starts and runs and goes like stink higher up, it's probably not a burned valve.

[coachgeo]

temporary do a 50/50 alcohol water injection mist to clean out that cylinder.  Say a misting squirt bottle infront of the intake?  

Don't take my word on it... read up on it first.

Does sound like a coolant leak.  clean it then dissasemble and redo head gasket?