Time for chain and sprockets for Mrs.Mustang's Steamer ...............
1. You will need the following items :
Torque wrench
assorted spanners and sockets
New front sprocket (Sprocket specialists in CA 30 bucks )
New Chain ( Dennis Kirk approx 100 bucks )
New Rear Sprocket ( Dennis Kirk has JT steel rear sprocket for 60 bucks )
A chain breaker and rivet tool for the new master link .
4 quarts of oil and a new filter
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/chain%20job/101_1689.jpg)
2. Get the rear wheel off the ground .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1649.jpg)
This works and of course so would a center stand
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1826.jpg)
3. Drain the oil and put the new filter in while you are down there .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/chain%20job/101_1688.jpg)
4. Remove the left side footpeg / kickstand bracket . The big Torx bolt has a nut on it , you need a 19mm box end and reach up by the rear shock .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/chain%20job/101_1692.jpg)
Look at the rust on this chain it was time !
5. Now you can remove the shifter and pull out the three bolts holding the slave cylinder to the sprocket cover . Gently pull the slave off and let it hang out of the way .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/chain%20job/101_1693.jpg)
6. Now remove the sprocket /oil fill cover . Now you know why we had to drain the oil !
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/chain%20job/101_1694.jpg)
7. Have your lovely assistant stand on the rear brake pedal while you use a 36mm socket and remove the sprocket nut ( yes they are super tight usually )
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/chain%20job/101_1695.jpg)
8. stuff a rag in the crankcase and clean off all the crud , doesn't have to be spotless or pretty just get rid of the road grime and built up chain wax or lube .
As you can plainly see , Mrs. M doesn't use that PJ1 in the first photo very often . :ImaPoser
That's why we're doing another "chain job" already :violent1
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/chain%20job/101_1696.jpg)
Now would also be a good time to check or replace the swingarm chain slider and the rub block .
9. Using the motion pro tool break the chain (or remove the master link ) most chains will be "endless "
10 . Remove the rear wheel and install the new sprocket . Then put the wheel back on .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/chain%20job/101_1697.jpg)
11 . Now unless you bought a chain that was 114 links make your 120 link chain be 114 links , using the chain breaker . Install the new chain and use the rivet master link that came with chain and your motion pro chain riveter .
assemble the rest of the bike the reverse of disassembly and adjust your chain , should be about 1 1/4 inch free play with wheel off the ground .
Have a cold one , you are done , and it only took about three hours .
Don't forget to fill it back up with oil . in a week or so check the chain tension and adjust if needed
Not sure why you have to do all that work...can't you just pop the front sprocket cover off and slip the new one on???
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/photos/367472689_R7v6K-L.jpg)
:wink:
(I think if she's going to let you do maintenance on her bike it's only fair that she let you modify it!!)
Nice write up, btw - thanks!
Nice tutorial. I just changed mine and used an EK Sport Quadra 530SRX X-Ring Chain that came in 114 Link version for $95 from bikebandit.
But I reused the gears (I know, I know) and it turned out that I had to cut the chain down anyway because the gears on the bike weren't stock.
Could you just lay the bike down on the right side so you wouldn't have to drain the oil? Just curious. I'll do it the way you said as it is time for an oil change anyhow.
Thanks for taking the time to write a How-To. I linked this thread to Steamer Wisdom.
Quote from: "CrazyTed"Could you just lay the bike down on the right side so you wouldn't have to drain the oil? Just curious. I'll do it the way you said as it is time for an oil change anyhow.
Absolutely , you can do a sprocket job and save the oil , just plug up the hole in the crankcase with rags to keep 'stuff' out !
Doesn't have to be leaned over much either .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/100_1558.jpg)
My Steamer getting chain and sprockets in Los Angeles , CA right in the middle of a road trip ! :shock:
Hey Mudhen..
What sprocket cover did you use and could you tell me a bit more about the cover mod, that looks slick..
Cheers,
Greg
Crazy Ted....
I thought you dropped out of Tigers about 3 years ago ....
Glad to see you're still around....
Yeah, I got hit by a drunk driver at work and wasn't able to ride for a long while. I'm back now although I'm dreaming of a Rocket 3 Touring edition. The old Tiger is still going strong although I'm hearing weird noises from the drive-line so I'll be pulling the cover off. Guess a chain and sprockets will be coming soon.
Well, what a surprise. Leaned the bike over and took everything off. The front sprocket looks almost new still. Come to find out the bottom chain slider is gone and the chain is running on metal. Makes me feel better.
Quote from: "offtheback"Hey Mudhen..
What sprocket cover did you use and could you tell me a bit more about the cover mod, that looks slick..
Cheers,
Greg
I used an XRs Only cover for a CRF450. Hmm...that company name doesn't seem to fit them anymore.
Just used my dremel and cut the cover apart. Cut around the clutch pushrod part, and cut the sump piece off. Then I used a really cheesy rubber push plug in the sump hole and made up a little bracket that bolts the CRF cover to a now-unused top hole for the old cover.
I'm no Mustang I'm afraid...it's an extremely cheesy hack job...like the rest of my 'mods'. But it allows me to switch between my street 19/48 setup and my off road 16/53 setup without having to drain the oil or take off the footpeg bracket...
Just take a metal saw and cut that damn sprocket cover in two parts.
(http://www.tigertrail900.de/projekt/pix/stufe2/Ritzelabdeckung.jpg)
You will need some liquid metal to close the hole of the oil filling funnel.
(http://www.rielo.de/XTiger/bilder/TT9/RitzelabdeckungRueckseite.jpg)
And while you are just handling with a saw: How about a little window to easily control the sprocket wear?
(http://www.rielo.de/XTiger/bilder/TT9/RitzelabdeckungFront.jpg)
After that you will only have to do four screws to access the sprocket.
(http://www.rielo.de/XTiger/bilder/TT9/Ritzelabdeckung.jpg)
Fell free to copy... ;)
Regards
Patrick
Quote from: "Patrick"Just take a metal saw and cut that damn sprocket cover in two parts.
(http://www.tigertrail900.de/projekt/pix/stufe2/Ritzelabdeckung.jpg)
Nice :thumbsup
Fer!
Stupid Germans always make stuff look so easy.
:lol:
I've got a spare cover...I may take you up on your offer and copy that!!!
Man, it's so simple it's perfect....
Quote from: "CrazyTed"Man, it's so simple it's perfect....
Be the first mod I make to your bike when I get it home.
Quote from: "Mudhen"Be the first mod I make to your bike when I get it home.
FOR REAL ?It would make me Happy to see I' m not the only CRAZY FF around here !(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/Jack.gif)
Quote from: "Mudhen"Quote from: "CrazyTed"Man, it's so simple it's perfect....
Be the first mod I make to your bike when I get it home.
You supply the money and it's all yours!!! I'll be at D and D Imports/Triumph tomorrow doing the paperwork on the Rocket!!!
Quote from: "Mustang"Quote from: "Mudhen"Be the first mod I make to your bike when I get it home.
FOR REAL ?
It would make me Happy to see I' m not the only CRAZY FF around here !(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/Jack.gif)
Even if I were to buy it, that would only be 2...you'd still be the
craziest FF around here!!!
If I win powerball before it sells, it's mine. Absolutely no question.
I now have a new 19 tooth sprocket to put on, so will be switching it out soon. In planning this project, do I need any new gaskets or o-rings or anything else while putting the covers back on? Just want to make sure I have everything I need before I dig into it.
Thanks in advance
Don
Quote from: "Bandit33"I now have a new 19 tooth sprocket to put on, so will be switching it out soon. In planning this project, do I need any new gaskets or o-rings or anything else while putting the covers back on? Just want to make sure I have everything I need before I dig into it.
Thanks in advance
Don
a new paper gasket for the cover and now would also be a good time to replace the seal on the shifter shaft as well as the seal for the clutch pushrod
Inspired by Patrick I did a sprocket cover split. Here are some picts for the bold and the brave. After cutting the cover, I continued and cut loose the oil funnel. After some grinding of the edges, I used model clay to fill the oil funnel and the recess in the new oil plug (see image). Then I filled the remaining volume with chemical metal (plastic padding) and put back the oil plug covered with a thin layer of vaseline. When the chemical metal had hardened I unscrewed the oil plug, and voilá, new threads. I have used the new cover for 5000 km, without any problems whatsoever. I finished the modification by changing the original gear linkage into a steel lever (originally for a YZ80, 93-). The lever was cut and rewelded to fit in the narrow groove of the shifter shaft.
Now I do not have to remove the side stand (and oil) to change the sprocket and chain. Shifting is more direct now as well.
:hello2 :notworthy Excellent job & post Harre, thank you it's inspirational (read = experience is the thing you get just after you needed it unless you steal somebody elses)
Send me the remaining alloy fillings and and I will mix them with some pastic metal and cast a T3 bravery medal :icon_salut :occasion14
Can I vote that post gets copied into the How To's it's so good.
great job, looks good 8)
As Obama said today, I don't deserve it. Credits to Patrick and others who paved the way. The mod is actually not so difficult, it just takes some nerve. Try it you'll like it.
This was back in October or so. How are those threads holding up now? How do you measure the oil? Thanks for posting this!!!
I've been thinking about this:
http://tinyurl.com/yczgzb2 (http://tinyurl.com/yczgzb2)
You can de-risk this project by buying another sprocket cover and moding that. This way you'll always have the original to fall back on.
Quote from: "Colonel Nikolai"I've been thinking about this:
http://tinyurl.com/yczgzb2 (http://tinyurl.com/yczgzb2)
You can de-risk this project by buying another sprocket cover and moding that. This way you'll always have the original to fall back on.
Good thinking man. And having a spare in case your chain ever gets a little loose and takes the thing out is good, too...
I wish splitting the cover apart would eliminate that situation. I wonder if some sort of shim could be slid in there to prevent the two from ever touching. My good friend Justin Case would like that very much.
From the photos it kinda looks like the two aren't touching now?
Quote from: "Colonel Nikolai"From the photos it kinda looks like the two aren't touching now?
By 'the two' I meant the chain and the clutch pushrod housing. It's so tight that if the chain gets loose it takes that out...and out goes your engine oil...
I think I see what you mean: you mean the part of the new sprocket cover that has a hole in it that ostensibly houses the shaft that the sprocket is mounted to? If so then I guess this mod is only going to help those who like to change sprockets without dealing with the engine oil. And if you put a small hole in the new sprocket cover over the sprocket teeth it also adds to being able to inspect the front sprocket without removing the cover, which is nice.
On a related note, I'm not sure how you would solve the problem you describe, though, except to not have it pass through the sprocket cover at all and have the sprocket cover be just that: a cover for the front sprocket. Haaay, wait a sec. That makes a lot of sense!!
Wait: I get it now. This thing is nuts: you're talking about the clutch hydraulics. It never occurred to me there are three things going on with this cover, not two. I thought it was just the oil and the output shaft and sprockets, not the clutch hydraulics too! Ewww! Who designed this thing?
QuoteThis was back in October or so. How are those threads holding up now? How do you measure the oil? Thanks for posting this!!!
My Steamer is hibernating right now, but the threads were OK after approx. 4000 km. If the threads will not hold, there is always the possibility to close the hole with a rubber plug. Before I started the surgery I also was a bit reluctant to cut the sprag cover. However, this was my only option since there is not enough space between the clutch hydraulics and the sprocket to allow for a simple opening just above the sprocket, which I would have preferred. The clutch hydraulics are now stressing the upper part of the sprag cover and may force it to bend slightly when operating the clutch, the effect must be very small though, since the cover looks as stiff as before the cut. The engineers behind the sprag cover should not be proud of themselves, but perhaps the engine was designed with a too small distance between the clutch pushrod and drive shaft to allow for a better design.
I made a small mark on the outside of the oil cover for the oil level maximum (seen on cvr12 and cvr14 pictures). When I check the oil I use a bolt that I have grinded flat on both sides and check the level by holding it level on the outside after measuring on the inside.
Quote from: "Colonel Nikolai"You can de-risk this project by buying another sprocket cover and moding that. This way you'll always have the original to fall back on.
I can't believe I am actually ahead of the game for a change :roll:
I managed to score one from Nik's Euro Bits when I was buying some other stuff. I plan to have it machined at my local engineering shop, a friend who is also an ex biker (bad knees), no disrespect to Harre who has done an excellent job with what he had avialable and has been my inspiration.
I think I'm going to do this mod, too, if for no other reason I want to be able to replace the sprocket when it's worn myself without so much hassle and $$. I was thinking of doing the K&N pod-style filter myself for the same reason, but I hear it's a bad idea from too many people on this forum so I won't.
Check out the previous thread to see my version of the same conversion ...
"Pure Dual Sport". Thanks to Mudhen for this idea, I just ran with it
Quote from: "Colonel Nikolai"I think I'm going to do this mod, too, if for no other reason I want to be able to replace the sprocket when it's worn myself without so much hassle and $$. I was thinking of doing the K&N pod-style filter myself for the same reason, but I hear it's a bad idea from too many people on this forum so I won't.
My concerns about the filter were dealt with by reworking a K&N off a Porsche Boxer to fit the Tiger. This of course changed the airflow, from passing through 49 sq inches of filter, to 55 sq in. This meant that I had to re-tune up to size 130 main jets. Dyno's at 101 Hp now. Over 50,000 km since the mod. I can remove & replace the filter without touching anything else, in about 5 minutes.
That K&N set up is way cool!