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Tiger Time => Steamers (1993-1998 Tigers) => Topic started by: Mustang on May 20, 2008, 01:34:35 AM

Title: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: Mustang on May 20, 2008, 01:34:35 AM
The same basic procedure applies to the Girly bikes as well  and they both use the same bearings

1. Get the front end off the ground . I like jack stands nice and stable , one under each footpeg and one under each side of the skid pan
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1649-1.jpg)

2 Remove all the fasteners for the three front fairing pcs. (Did ya know that there are more bolts for the fairing than there is for the whole front end ?)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1650-1.jpg)

3. Unbolt the handle bars and lay them over the dash board
4.remove the front wheel
5. remove the calipers and front fender
6. remove the brake line junction from the lower triple tree
(note you leave all the brake lines intact thus avoiding more work for yourself , don't have to bleed em this way )
7 Loosen the pinch bolts on the triple trees and slide the fork legs out the bottom
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1651-1.jpg)
Now go ahead and take the tank off (shoulda known Triumph wasn't going to make this easy )
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1653-1.jpg)

Now comes the reason you need the Special wrenches from triumph for the tree nuts
The wrenches are 38mm but they are only a 1/4 inch thick to get under the top tree .
Triumph made the top tree so it is captured by the steel pc welded on the neck . It is some sort of anti-theft engineering that makes it hard to service the front end , bastards ! Wait ..............whats that you say you can do it with out the special wrenches ?
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1668.jpg)
8. With the gas tank off you can turn the top tree all the way to the right as far as you can and then it will lift off with out interference with the frame .
9. Now you can loosen the lock nut and take off the bottom nut that gives the bearing preload and holds the lower tree in the frame .
10. Now you can use a brass or aluminum drift and beat the top bearing out from the bottom side and then do the same to the race that is in the bottom of the neck .
11. You can see the wear in this one imagine how it felt with the front brakes on and all the bike weight transferred forward ..........
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1667.jpg)

12. This next step is the hardest part of this whole procedure ..................
you need to remove the bearing from the triple tree stem .
I use a air powered cut off wheel to score the bearing race and then with a chisel you can crack the race and then beat the bearing off the stem , or take it to a shop that will press it off for you . If you are good , or is it lucky , you can reuse the seal , but you probably ought to have one on hand before you attempt this cuz more than likely Murphys Law says you will screw the seal up !
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1675.jpg)

(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1676.jpg)

13. Take your new bearing that you got from triumph for $50 or you can order this one from McMaster Carr for $26 it's the same bearing  made by Timken . McMaster Carr p/n is #6677K58
Pack it with the flavor of grease you like ( I use a marine grade grease ) then using a pipe the same diameter as the race not the bearing cage use a hammer and drive it home , it goes on fairly easy so don't get carried away with the hammer .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1679.jpg)

The Top bearing is a special , it has a snap ring to locate it in the steering head , you can buy triumphs or source one your self from a bearing supplier it is a 6205DU (DU means sealed bearing ) with retainining ring
or if you have a lathe you can get this one from McMaster Carr 5972K46  for $8 and put your own snap ring grove in .

14 .Use a pc of wood or aluminum or brass that is the diameter of the outer race and with the magical hammer tap it into place .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1674.jpg)

15 Now stick the lower tree up thru the headstock and tighten the nut to set the preload . you want the forks to have no slop in the bearings and they should remain whereever you put them but be able to turn free and smooth , the key is tight enuff so they won't fall side to side from gravity but still move freely , make sense ? I hope so !

16 . Put on the top Lock nut and then reassemble everything in reverse order of removal .

Easy Right ? :D !
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Post by: Stretch on May 20, 2008, 04:06:44 AM
Thanks for taking the time to take pics and put this thread together.
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Post by: iansoady on May 20, 2008, 06:24:46 PM
Good job. As you say, it's the same for girlies (I only look in here out of curiosity) so might be worth putting a link to it from the girly section.
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Post by: Mudhen on May 21, 2008, 12:32:45 PM
Awesome write up and pics - thanks.  I'm sure I'll be doing this at some point.

How many miles on your bike now?
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Post by: Mustang on May 21, 2008, 01:40:18 PM
Quote from: "Mudhen"How many miles on your bike now?
Over 50 K purrs like a kitten !
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Post by: Mudhen on May 21, 2008, 11:25:35 PM
Quote from: "Mustang"
Quote from: "Mudhen"How many miles on your bike now?
Over 50 K purrs like a kitten !

Cool, that means I've got at least another 5k miles before needing this...  :wink:
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Post by: zombie on November 08, 2008, 09:30:43 PM
How far up into the neck do you set the bottom race
do you have it flush with the bottom of the neck or drift it all the way up till it stops against the lip set in the neck
cheers
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Post by: Mustang on November 08, 2008, 11:10:43 PM
All the way till it stops !
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Post by: zombie on November 09, 2008, 01:38:47 AM
cheers worked like ya said it would
thanks
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Post by: JetdocX on November 09, 2008, 01:53:45 AM
How about drilling yourself a couple of punch sized holes in the lower tree for easier bearing removal next time?   :wink:

(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1676.jpg)
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Post by: Mustang on November 09, 2008, 01:02:38 PM
Three reasons I can think of off the top of my pointy head
1. Chance of weakening triple tree !
2. Water will be able to get at the bearing easier .
3 . It's not as bad as it looks or sounds to get the bearing off .
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Post by: zombie on November 09, 2008, 10:58:39 PM
It really wasn't that difficult to do and I tend to err on the side of caution if I'm aproaching a project for the first time hence the question.
The bike is almost back together except for a new paint job matt black of course. I'm going for the lumpy paint look as I can't be arsed to sand or clean it and I'm doing it rattle cans.
Cheap and cheerful , thats me
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Post by: JetdocX on November 10, 2008, 03:50:57 AM
Line-X it!  That would look bomber! :lol:
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Post by: Stretch on November 10, 2008, 06:22:56 AM
Quote from: "JetdocX"Line-X it!  That would look bomber! :lol:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231743 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231743)
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Post by: EvilBetty on September 05, 2009, 06:32:49 AM
Ok apparently my head bearing is fine, but it needs to be tightened.  Is there anyway to do that without the special wrenches?
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Post by: blacktiger on January 24, 2010, 02:50:49 PM
Just put my second set in at 59000. Really easy when you cut the lower inner off as described in the first post.
The bearings in there, which I fitted at 28000, were not showing any signs of being worn out but as I was doing the 60K service and had it all stripped down, I did the job anyway because I didn't want to have to strip it all down again mid riding season. that should be good for another 30K now.
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Post by: NeilD on January 25, 2010, 06:13:52 PM
just doign this on my Thunderbird Sport, which has the same set up... having a real struggle fitting the bottom bearing..  :? have had to order another new one as got to the stage where it wouldnt go on nor come off (without the aid of a punch!).. perhaps i need a bigger hammer...
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Post by: Mustang on January 25, 2010, 07:05:12 PM
Quote from: "NeilD"just doign this on my Thunderbird Sport, which has the same set up... having a real struggle fitting the bottom bearing..  :? have had to order another new one as got to the stage where it wouldnt go on nor come off (without the aid of a punch!).. perhaps i need a bigger hammer...
if it is being that stubborn to go back on it may be worthwhile to find someone with a hydraulic press to push it on for you ...........
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Post by: NeilD on January 25, 2010, 08:47:33 PM
may well do that, although on closer examination of the steering stem looks like I knicked it with the dremmel whilst cutting the old bearing off which raised the surface slightly, maybe just enough to stop the new one going on..  :?
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Post by: Papalobster on June 04, 2012, 07:57:13 PM
Back from the dead :D

My Steamer has a notchy steering bearing and I wish to replace the bearings. I followed up on McMaster bearings, and it seems the $26 bearing Mustang referenced is now $38! All Balls has a kit #  22-1053  that looks to cover the bearings and seals and is available through Amazon for $30 shipped.
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Post by: Mustang on June 04, 2012, 08:16:22 PM
the all balls kits are great I used 1 in the last steamer I did
came with two taper bearings for the bikes before serial #4xxxxx and also had the roller bearing for bikes that are after vin#4xxxxx

98's use the roller bearing with the circlip for the top bearing .
they are all over ebay also
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Post by: Papalobster on July 11, 2012, 08:48:16 PM
I'm in the middle of doing this and came up with a neater, easier way to get the lower race on. I cleaned up the stem, making sure there were no nicks or anything. Wiped it down with carb cleaner and threw it in the  freezer for a couple hours. I took the new lower bearing, and put it in a 250 degree toaster oven (regular kitchen oven will work for this) for 30 minutes. Grab the stem from the freezer, grab the bearing from the oven and drop in on. No pipes, no bashing, no pressing. Give er a little tap to make sure it's seated and when it come to room temp everything is inplace and ready to install.

It's important to not heat the bearing too high, so don't use a torch or heat gun as you can mess with th egrain structure in the bearings.

It's not easy to pack the bearing after install, but can be done with patience.

When we replace bearings on our field equipment we actually use a deep fryer to immerse the bearing races to heat them up. Nice even heat and pre-lubed!
Title: Re: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: cosmo on January 07, 2013, 02:49:23 AM
Did the job on my '06 Girly. You need not remove the  fairing, and the handlebars need only be held out of the way. Pipe to press on the lower can be substituted with the old bearing race, inverted, minus cage and rollers. Then use any pipe that will press evenly on the old race (which is pressing on the new).  Heat and cold definitely helps as stated above. To install races in the frame, buy or borrow a bearing installer. The aluminium tool will not damage the race.

Cosmo
Title: Re: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: pineygroveshop on July 20, 2013, 02:13:48 AM
Just completed this project.  +1 for www.allballsracing.com.  I've now used them twice to source bearings and that they sell them in a purpose built kit really helps.
Title: Re: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: brad1098 on September 24, 2014, 12:00:38 AM
With the forks off the bike the steering turns easy as it should.  There is a noticeable notch at the center/straight positions though.

28k miles, untouched factory bearings.

Go ahead tell me it is time. . . . .
Title: Re: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: John Stenhouse on September 24, 2014, 01:04:13 PM
It's time......notch will only get worse
Title: Re: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: nickjtc on September 24, 2014, 09:15:44 PM
Quote from: brad1098 on September 24, 2014, 12:00:38 AM
Go ahead tell me it is time. . . . .

It's time +1.

A good excuse to get up close and personal with the front end of your bike.  :love10

And anyway the long winter months are fast approaching and you have to have something to do.
Title: Re: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: cdubya on December 24, 2014, 06:58:29 PM
Thanks for the write up Ken.
Steering bearing maintenance is on my winter list.
Just found a good deal on 38mm wrenches I thought I'd pass along. Put "DONTFORGET" in the promo code box for an additional $5 off. Ended up $23 and change for one. Free shipping through today.
*Will have to grind the wrench down to desired thickness, 3/16".

http://www.zoro.com/i/G4822903/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CjwKEAiA5emkBRCT_JL9p77IyF8SJADpztPyfyf9sKdLUb6apxpBG6bcyO56GcFCZcjTwoSRG5RCghoC16vw_wcB
Title: Re: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: benebob on August 30, 2016, 02:54:08 AM
Bringing back from the dead because I'm dense.  I am getting ready to replace my bearings as they are making a horrible squeak (probably could just get by with a  grease but while I'm there might as well replace 'em.  My question is regarding the special tools.  When the instructions say you don't need the 38mm wrenches if you take the tank off and turn it to the right.  I'm at a loss to understand what that allows you to do without the wrenches.  Do I still need a 38mm wrench?  two of them (just thinker) or a 38mm socket etc.  Want to have everything I need ready to go to limit my downtime.
Title: Re: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: rf9rider on September 05, 2016, 02:21:09 AM
You only need the special wrenches to adjust the locknuts as they are only a couple of mm`s thick, so there isn`t enough room to get to them.

If you take the top triple tree off, you can adjust or remove the locknuts with a hammer and drift.

With the top triple tree on, you need the special wrenches as these are thin enough to adjust the locknuts without taking the top triple tree off.

You need to remove the tank and turn the triple tree to get it off as it`s some sort of anti theft device.

Title: How to replace Steering Head Bearings
Post by: ghulst on September 05, 2016, 08:36:16 AM
A c-spanner would do to adjust the nuts. Or that is my experience.
However, if you disassemble the whole thing and need to reassemble, having a 38mm might be welcome if you want to torque the nuts to the right specs...
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