So as soon as the weather turns enough to ski more and ride less I plan on doing my valves.. Never did the valves on a shim set up before but just got the tool from Mustang in my xmas stocking. I'm not a fan of my local dealer and what he stocks so I'm thinking about just buying a shim kit. Would like to get all of them to a point where I should be able to go another 15k-20k rather than 12 as I'm thinking of being away for more the 12k this spring.. What are the thoughts of the experts on that idea and this set. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GV1L3I?keywords=25mm%20shim%20kit&qid=1451092551&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
I've done my shims a few times. I personally wouldn't spend that much on a kit. You won't use 95% of the kit but, the added advantage is that you will have them ready to install. As compared to finding out what you need and then buying single shims as needed. Typically, you will be able to reuse some and move them from one bucket to another as needed. If you have a short shim on one, it might be perfect for another bucket. You should only need a few shims to do a whole head and you will end up with a few left over. You can buy single ones online and from bike shops. Oh yea, it's nice to have a micrometer or at least a caliper to identify the thickness of all of your shims. They will be marked by the supplier but, nine times out of ten the writing is wore off.
Its the finding and ordering then waiting that I'm more concerned about. I'm sure over time I'll use enough of them to make it worthwhile right?
Quote from: benebob on December 26, 2015, 03:56:52 AM
Its the finding and ordering then waiting that I'm more concerned about. I'm sure over time I'll use enough of them to make it worthwhile right?
I have a quote that I use in problem solving:
Money can fix anything. :icon_wink:
I just need more money to fix stuff... :icon_cry:
i must be spoilt as if push come to shove, I can make up the shims :wheel
it's swings and roundabouts. If you buy a kit, you will have them left over but can get the job done in a day. But if your a tight arse, you can strip, measure and order singles, but you maybe a week doing the job.
if it was me, I would buy the kit as you know the F**K up fairy will pay you a visit if you don't get it done in the day. :ImaPoser
Yeah, Joe will call me money bags :) but for me being without my bike for a week esp when I have the entire 24k service to do and a body so broken that 6 hours a day all day of movement is a good day. So that 25mm kitt should do it right?
Quote from: benebob on December 26, 2015, 05:32:18 PM
Yeah, Joe will call me money bags :) but for me being without my bike for a week esp when I have the entire 24k service to do and a body so broken that 6 hours a day all day of movement is a good day. So that 25mm kitt should do it right?
Yes, 25mm ones are the correct size...
Another good thing to have is dental style tools and a strong telescoping magnet. The shims like to stick to the buckets and oil causes some suction between them. I found if you spin the shims in the bucket, it helps to release them.
I didn't call you "Money Bags" once,
JD
Have you checked them ? you may not have to do anything but put the cam cover back on .................... :nod
I'd check with your local dealer\ers . They might have a good stock? Seems a lot of money for shims you'll never use? Some dealers might swap shims? And as Mustang said,you might not need any? :icon_wink:
+1 on the magnet, it took me once (and once too often) to figure out my great idea of a shot of compressed air under the shim would release it. I even had the foresight to place shop rag behind it to catch the oil spray.
An unholy mess resulted. Magnet on the edge with spin is the way to go.
As Mr Dirt mentioned in another spot- older Yamaha and Honda engines use the same 25mm shim in .25 increments. 'even the outboard motors. I found a good supply at a small engine repair shop that let me exchange what I needed on multiple occasions.
A couple more pieces of unsolicited thoughts: My engine has just under 60k miles, and I've only needed to adjust the valves 3 times at the 12k intervals, so you may open it up and find it's fine. The other is that even at twice the price of the kit you linked, it's much less than a shop will do it.
That said, I'm cheap frugal.
Quote from: Dyn Blin on December 28, 2015, 06:15:08 PM
+1 on the magnet, Magnet on the edge with spin is the way to go.
As Mr Dirt mentioned in another spot- older Yamaha and Honda engines use the same 25mm shim in .25 increments. 'even the outboard motors. I found a good supply at a small engine repair shop that let me exchange what I needed on multiple occasions.
That said, I'm cheap frugal.
I like that
Mr Dirt. I might have to change my call sign. :icon_salut:
Quote from: JoeDirt on December 01, 2015, 12:12:45 AM
Don't forget your friends with Yamaha's too... they use the same shims also. :thumbsup
Dyn, I did say that. I went back and found my post. Your memory is better than mine. :icon_scratch:
Signed,
Mr. Dirt :icon_mrgreen:
A few quick note on Shims, while I've yet to do them on my Tiger yet, I have on plenty of Twins.
1. Most local Honda shops keep a good supply of these shims in their service department. The local shop to me will actually swap shims with me if I don't have them in my collection.
2. When going through your lash the first time, take a little extra time and measure ALL of the shims (even if they're within spec) and make a chart of what the lash is on each cylinder and what shim you have. Now on your next adjustment when you check the cold adjustment you can check to see what shims you need before you even take anything (other than removing the tank) apart.
3. Also keep in mind that in some situations you easily swap shims from one cylinder to another to get you back within spec.
Most of our bike shops SUCK.
First time I went to my local triumph shop for a part, they didn't have it in stock, but they did get it next day from triumph. When I asked for a test ride on a newer bike, they couldn't find anyone to show me about and arrange a test ride.
I thought BMW dealers/owners were supposed to be snobs,
Quote from: RumRunnerGuy on December 29, 2015, 03:35:31 AM
...measure ALL of the shims (even if they're within spec) and make a chart ...
At the risk of being common knowledge to the forum, this calculator is extremely helpful to track past shim placement and track current needs:
http://www.agbuzz.com.au/valve/valve_intro.htm (http://www.agbuzz.com.au/valve/valve_intro.htm)
Quote from: JoeDirt on December 28, 2015, 10:21:13 PM
I like that Mr Dirt. I might have to change my call sign....
Hey, more power to ya! Janitors with a mullet, acid-washed jeans and a dream need respect too.
As I said, my local dealer is horrible. I do my best to avoid the place. The local Honda shops are pretty small and I no longer know anyone at 'em so to be sure I would likely have what I need I figured ordering a set was the way to go. still need to get more fuel out but the weather is turning colder so it will go in the garage soon for a 24k service and maybe I'll take her clutch apart to try to figure out why she randomly hates to change gears.
As for Mr. Dirt, I would prefer you get yourself a higher degree so we can call you Dr. Dirt, or if you aren't into the loans needed maybe just DirtyJoe.
Okay so bike is almost apart, just need to take the plugs and the cover off. Hope to get that done tomorrow and then check and reshim on Wednesday. Hopefully last question So with the range, which side of the range do I want to be on to give it the longest time between the next needed shims?
You want to stay on the smaller side but, you are either in or out. Just follow below scan from 955i service manual.
So in theory the closer I get them to .10 and .15mm the longer it should be til they need adjustment right?
The shims only come in 0.05mm increments. You hit one side of the clearence, you fall out on the other side.
You are either in or out.
~JD
just the opposite .....they tighten up with use so bigger gap is better (theoretically)
as jd says in spec is what you want .......... ideally
but if I saw intakes at .003 /.0035 inch I leave them be till next time ...............seriously
Quote from: Mustang on January 12, 2016, 03:08:22 AM
just the opposite .....they tighten up with use so bigger gap is better (theoretically)
as jd says in spec is what you want .......... ideally
but if I saw intakes at .003 /.0035 inch I leave them be till next time ...............seriously
PLEASE NOTE MUSTANG IS USING INCHES! (not that there is anything wrong with it...)
Yea Mustang is right... if you leave more than the service limits of "gap", your valves will close longer over time. Your cams won't engage as much as they could. It would make the performance suffer ever so slightly.
Quote from: JoeDirt on January 12, 2016, 03:04:47 AM
The shims only come in 0.05mm increments. You hit one side of the clearence, you fall out on the other side.
You are either in or out.
~JD
although the triumph shims come in .05 increments
I have seen shims for other makes (25mm dia) that you can get in increments of .025 mm but it's not worth the bother.
I love when a plan comes together. Got Mustang's valve tool and a box of shims so by being prepared like a good boy scout should be means all my valves measured out just fine so both with sit on the shelf new in their packing until 36k. Woo hoo, had I not been prepared I'm sure every valve would have needed a shim. Now it is on to the coolant and probably the clutch. I didn't snap a pic but I did have a good bit of brown foam on the cam cover just above the cam chain (no where else). Again doesn't taste or smell like coolant so I am still pretty convinced it is just condensate. Thanks everyone for helping a newbe at these shims and buckets.
Please no foam pictures... I just had lunch.
(http://www.cash-5.com/Smileys/puke.gif)
What don't you like milk shakes?
Quote from: benebob on January 13, 2016, 11:16:40 PM
What don't you like milk shakes?
Brahm's chocolate milkshake.....it's what bellies are made of