Got a slight problem with the front brakes, the tiger is difficult to push back wards. the front wheel is difficult to turm by hand.
I have cleaned the pads and the cylinders, replaced the fluid. so i think its time for new pads, plus a caliper strip down in case theres any crud behind the pistons.
This should sort the probs.
ps, when riding the tiger the discs do not get hot.
any advice is welcome
I had the same on mine mate, twice I cleaned them by pushing the pistons out as far as poss and then cleaning , but it only really got sorted when I took em right out and cleaned em up properly with metal polish, I got away without replacing seals, but its best to get new ones just in case, its normally the outer dust seal that gets a build up of crud behind it and then stops the pistons going in and out easily.
Check your sliding pins...the caliper should be able to move on these.
Ask me how I know :oops:
Quote from: "PeteH"Check your sliding pins...the caliper should be able to move on these.
:
yep.. also worth checking, and changing i fneccesary, the rubber boots as splits in these let moisture in which rusts the pins and congeals any grease in there..
Sliding pins are fine really smooth action, no splits in the rubber, i think possible a build up of crud or fluid crystalizing behind the pistons.
yeah normally gunge behind the seals - ive got a couple of dental picks for cleaning them out
also worth checking the master cylinder. I had one bike that the MC went on and it wouldn't allow fluid back in very easy, which would keep pressure on the pads.
took off caliper (clutch lever side) front wheel spins fine with only 1 caliper still on, removed pistons and found both pots to be dirty.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/IMG_3120.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/IMG_3121.jpg)
all cleaned now but i have an issue fitting the last seal back in, so time for a coffee.
If memory serves me right it look like the cruds on the pad side of the pistons...if so they couldnt have been cleaned properly(awaits incoming)
Best of luck with the seal and getting the pistons back in.
correct Pete :oops: , crud on pad side stopping the return of pistons, the area was on the top side of pistons closest to caliper (you know where i mean)
all back together now wheel runs free again. Bleeding the brakes was a doddle using the syring method to pull the fluid down from MC to nipple.
Quote from: "daveb"correct Pete :oops: , crud on pad side stopping the return of pistons, the area was on the top side of pistons closest to caliper (you know where i mean)
Oh I certainly do :wink: Thats why I remove the sliding part of the caliper if cleanings required as it gives better access to the pistons.
With the slider removed the pistons can be pushed out past their operating area, then I use a thin strip of used green scourer and pass it around each piston...all fine so far...which reminds me, new pads and a clean up before winter arrives :)
Neil, as for the rubber boots, I have had to replace one and they are not an item that Triumph supplies....but Honda ones fit :)
took the bike for a spin, all is now good :D
serviced the front brakes again today as the MOT test told me they were binding slightly.
sound a small piece of casting missing from thecaliper - dust seal area
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3549.jpg) (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3550.jpg)
rebuilt
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3552.jpg) (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3553.jpg)
it is not leaking and brakes are fine. but do you think I should replace the caliper.
I would examine the area for further cracking and if none present I would run them. A lot of guys would toss. I am too frugal. Joe
Quote from: "Ironhorse"I would examine the area for further cracking and if none present I would run them. A lot of guys would toss. I am too frugal. Joe
had a close look couldn't see any other cracks. I agree i will run it and keep an eye on it, - cheapest option :D
not saying i am tight but I installed double glazed windows, so the kids couldn't hear the ice cream van :lol:
How'd you repair it Dave? Looks like you had the broken bit to stick back.
It may be ok now, but if it gives out under heavy braking (or any braking for the matter) and the seal leaks, you lever's going straight to the bar and you're going straight to the scene of the accident (to quote Martin Brundle).....
Epoxy metal is quite workable, stick a blob on and then smooth it out?
Normally a good idea Dan, but you don't eff with brakes unless you can effect a proper professional repair. I know it's a very low chance of leaking, and that edge is not much more than dressing, but I'd never advise any less than a proper repair or replace.
Definately with you on this BB.
What concerns me is what caused the lump to break from the casting? I would hazard a guess that a screwdriver may have been the culprit judging by the state of the pistons.
Personally if this bike was in my workshop and the customer wanted to ride it away, it would be gas-axed in half first.
There is no point what so ever in scrimping on brakes, can't afford it is no excuse. Can't afford it...don't ride it.
The pistons are pitted with rust and will therefore tear the seal eventually and the first you will know about it is in an oh sh*t moment and the lever comes to the bar. That then puts you at risk and whoever you hit. Coroners report states "Brakes were in bad repair".
Change the pistons and calipers for ones that are not rusty as f**k even good secondhand ones.
Rework a good set of secondhand calipers with new seals and pistons and of course new pads, may be worth checking the thickness of the discs as if the state of the rest of the system is to be believed.
Rant over. Ride SAFE.
Edit.
Just noticed it took only 7 months from being rebuilt to have binding brakes again, this should suggest something!
I think winter riding has something to do with the state of the calipers.
the thing is when I removed the caliper nothing dropped off the caliper, so I dont know when it happened. so it cannot be repaired.
The only time I use a screwdrive near the brakes is to remove the locking screw for the pin. even though they were binding its more of them rubbing.
I noticed this piece missing when the brakes were being pumped to remove the pistons. The seal only leaked when the piston was ready to be pulled out by finger pressure.
I have been searching the web for 2nd hand caliper and even compatible sets off anther triumph model.
Lucky enough Triumphant is only 30 miutes away so I can pop over there.
My Blackbird has been ridden every winter since 2001, Tiger has been ridden every winter since 2007 and last month is the first time I've had a brake issue. That was on the Tiger and was my fault. I washed the salt off on arriving home as I always do, but didn't dry her off properly like normal becauseit was late and still raining. I was then ill for a couple of days so the pads were sticking by the time I got back to her. I kept to this discipline even when commuting 150 miles to Corsham and back or doing a 70mile daily comute to Henlow. Even a quick rinse with a hose and cold water is enough to keep the salt at bay, focussing on calipers front and back, forks, wheel bearings and radiators. Generally, the rest of the bike is paint and plastic so just needs keeping clean.
I've also been accused of being a bir ''retentive'' :oops:
pads changed too, the old ones were not good.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/IMG_3554.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/IMG_3555.jpg)
everything is now clean, wheel rotates freely.
I am finding the Tiger needs more TLC then my previous bike, which had Brembo brakes.
I have been offered a pair of calipers off another model of Triumph, Nissin, just checking a few things out
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/caliper2.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/caliper1.jpg)
Would prefer the photo to show the working side but if it is as clean and good as the pretty side then go for it.
Don't forget the sealing washers and replace banjo bolts as a matter of course.
May be an idea to check the rear caliper, and both rad cores for salt corrosion.
My Tigger is ridden every day sometimes for a short or long commute and as BB suggests, a simple rinse off is good. I must admit to being a bit concerned about the affects of road salt and usually wash it every other day, to three days, lubeing the chain with teflon and have no problems at all.
Just as advice, if the brake pistons are in any way pitted or rough where the seal will come into contact, they are finished and need to be replaced, also the bores they run in should be pit/corrosion free.
If the source of the lump of caliper dissappearing is not known then even more reason to replace as the integrity of the whole caliper is not known, it is more than likely at some time in its past has incurred impact or leverage where no doubt the pistons were tight. By the colour of the break it has been missing for a while.
just checked out the brakes this morning, test ride no problems, new brake pads fitted too.
I also have checked the calipers this morning removed the pads again. the pistons are free and are able to be pushed in just be thumb pressure.
When stripped down shims were removed and polished also any crud was removed from behind then.
so it looks like I should wash the crud off every day when salting is being put down.
I have sent the measurement over to the guy. also the pitch of the slider pins.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/IMG_3121pistons.jpg)
If you have a look at your pictures again,the small black dots (circled) are pits, these are rust. These pits have sharp edges which will eventually tear the seals as with the new pads you have fitted the pits will be nicely adjacent to these. These are the same as fork tubes when they rot and the seal will not last long, ok so the piston doesn't move as much as a fork but operates with far higher pressure.
The rubbers that the pins slide in, when these are removed corrosion can be found making the sliders tight.
Still would not run with brakes in this condition as they will not get any better, by virtue of you pushing the pistons nicely in with thumb pressure (good) will have already affected the seals.
Can only advise at the end of the day and it is your neck on the line.
thats photo was taken last year, and after polishing they were smooth, the bike has possible covered about 7,000 miles since then,
I am still on the look out for a new casting, the gold ones have slightly different pitch on the slide / guide pins so the hunt continues.
On a slightly different track, does anyone know of a source for stainless bleed nipples.
My nipples are getting very rusty :roll:
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"On a slightly different track, does anyone know of a source for stainless bleed nipples.
My nipples are getting very rusty :roll:
Sin_Tiger have you tried Triumph online http://www.triumph-online.co.uk/brake-- ... -110-c.asp (http://www.triumph-online.co.uk/brake---caliper-mcyl-piston--seal-kits-110-c.asp)
look what arrived today :D
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3575.jpg) (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3574.jpg) (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3573.jpg)
all sorted fitted, new washers fitted, took bike for a spin all is good with the new calipers bike washed too
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3576.jpg) (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3578.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3577.jpg) (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/DaveBelton/bike%20stuff/IMG_3579.jpg)
What bike are those calipers off? I take it they fit fine?
Quote from: "mwrmoore"What bike are those calipers off? I take it they fit fine?
the guy was unsure which model of triumph they were for. but I was prepared to to the risk, he offered to take them back less the postage if they didn't fit.
aparently Nissin brake calipers are used on a wide range of bikes using the same pattern.
I dry fitted them first, also checked that the triumph pads fitted, also the slider part of thew caliper also fitted.
they are a perfect mechanical match for the Tiger, test rode it yestarday and all is fine. So a lucky find.
Must check the mounts to see if the 6 pot Nissins on the 'Bird would fit. They'd be an interesting mod 8)
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Must check the mounts to see if the 6 pot Nissins on the 'Bird would fit. They'd be an interesting mod 8)
worth a try, check if fixing points match if not try the positions of the slider pins.
Bird and Tiger are roughly the same weight, but could imagine the different dynamics - Tiger's short and high, Bird is long and low. With the 6 pots on the Tiger (assuming they fit) the nose would go down, bottom out, stoppie then those long legs would unload catapulting the rider into orbit :lol: :lol: :lol: :shock:
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Must check the mounts to see if the 6 pot Nissins on the 'Bird would fit. They'd be an interesting mod 8)
Don`t think they`ll fit, the Nissin 6 pots are usually 90mm between mounting holes, think your Tiger is 85mm?
They`ll fit my Steamer with the Trophy legs :)