Hi guys, just need help.
The Tiger 06 model, was difficult to start last week, spinning over but not firing, but after 4 or 5 attempts would fire up. best way to describe it, it was like it was flooding the plugs. took the car for rest of week as weather was not good.
But when she is running everything is good, even on idle she idles at normal revs, running its like nothing wrong. only issue is firing up.
I changed the battery this weekend, bike fired straight up no issues, got to work only about 15 miles away, turned bike off, left a few minutes same problem non starting sound like flooding, spinning but not fire.
I will change the plugs tonight as they have been in there for a long time, just to rule them out.
but any other ideas would be helpful.
I had this a time or two but it was low volts stopping the injectors firing. You changed the battery so it's not that, UNLESS it's not charging. Then your battery would get you to work, but by then would struggle to get it going again. Simple check, put a voltmeter across the battery while it's running. With the engine off you should have around 12.5-12.7volts.
Thats it exactly Bob, I will put a voltmeter on it soon and update you my finding.
I know it was fully charged this morning as I took it off the optimate. if its not charging then it could be the rectifier? I was hoping the plugs were breaking down as they have been on there for about 18 months.
just checked the voltage, 11.8v :icon_sad:
I will put it on charge this afternoon, hopefully it will be enough to get me home.
so any ideas
found this on triumph rat, either the rectifier of stator. http://www.triumphrat.net/tigers-885i-and-955i-mods-and-workshop/216858-bad-stator-need-help.html
Quote from: daveb on February 22, 2016, 02:00:44 PM
just checked the voltage, 11.8v :icon_sad:
Become familiar with this forum board: http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/board,58.0.html (http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/board,58.0.html)
- Make sure your battery terminals are tight.
- Check your voltage sitting and running... needs to be more than 12v while running.(Agree with BixxerBob)
- Keep an eye on your Tachometer and Gas gauge. If they drop to zero for no reason... you could have a charging issue.
- Get a voltmeter you can use while riding. Cheap Chinese ones off eBay work just fine.
- Check your main fuse on side of the battery for corrosion and melting.
- Check the connections between the Regulator and the Stattor. Open the connection and check the contacts for corrosion.
Personally, I would look at Regulator before replacing a perfectly good Stattor. Also, a couple of threads you might look at are the "Sasquatch MOD" and "Mosfet MOD".
I did a search Joe, But I just need a starting point to aid the investigation for a cheap n cheerful solution. to change the regulator and / or stator are not cheap, think you have answered the cheap and cheerful starting points. :thumbsup
Make sure your battery terminals are tight. - confirmed
Check your voltage sitting and running... needs to be more than 12v while running.(Agree with BixxerBob) bike on charge will check later
Keep an eye on your Tachometer and Gas gauge. If they drop to zero for no reason... you could have a charging issue. have not noticed pointer drop issues
Get an voltmeter you can use while riding. Cheap Chinese ones off eBay work just fine. I get one from work
Check your main fuse on side of the battery for corrosion and melting. will do
Check the connections between the Regulator and the Stattor. Open the connection and check the contacts for corrosion will do
Personally, I would look at Regulator before replacing a perfectly good Stator. Also, a couple of threads you might look at are the "Sasquatch MOD" and "Mosfet MOD". will do
Quote from: daveb on February 22, 2016, 04:32:49 PM
I did a search Joe, But I just need a starting point to aid the investigation for a cheap n cheerful solution. to change the regulator and / or stator are not cheap, think you have answered the cheap and cheerful starting points. :thumbsup
I would be more inclined to look at "cheap" wire restrictions, first. :thumbsup
BTW... There isn't much to fail on a Stator.
Yep joe, stripping it down the week fault finding step by step. Connection, wire shorts, corrosion.
This link is in the Girly Wisdom; I've shared it a lot lately.... :icon_rolleyes:
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 22, 2016, 10:59:39 PM
This link is in the Girly Wisdom; I've shared it a lot lately.... :icon_rolleyes:
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
Cheers Bob, :thumbsup
Done some investigation work,
Checked plug connectors, no sign of corrosion
So carried out the checks.
Battery at static 12.8v
Ignition On inc lights 12v
Bike running on idle 13.99/14v
Resistance check at stator plug the multimeter showed O.L , electrical and electronic guys at work said this was a good sign.
Voltage checks at stator plug when running on idle
1-2 25v
2-3 25v
1-3 25v
Ran the bike bike for 20 minutes no issues, turned bike off then on, it's starts fine now. I did change the 30A fuse, but buzzed the old one out to check continuity no problems.
bike failed to start last night, lets the problem solving begin.
after a lot of head scratching, and pulling things off the bike checking values etc. I decided to buy a haynes manual and started to follow the wiring only to discover there is a 2nd 30A fuse. The one along side the battery box, also there is a 30a charging fuse in the fuse box.
all was good with both 30A, so I decided to check the rest of the fuses, all were not damaged.putting in the 15A fuse (engine symbol) I noticed the fuel pump not priming give the fuse a quick clean, pump now priming bike running.
just fired up the bike lunch time after the bike standing for about 5 hrs no problems
I managed to borrow some electrical contact cleaner from work so I will ensure the fuse and holders will have clean contacts. might even change the fuses as they are still the original ones. there again, the old saying 'if not broken - dont change' springs to mind
so it looks like it was a cheap n cheerful fix after all.
And it always pays to do the easy, cheap stuff first :thumbsup
True Bob, glad I done the leg work, took my time, confirming, checking rechecking.
It's always the simplest things give the biggest problems.
When you get some dry weather and time to get the fuse box cleaned out, invest a fiver on some dielectric grease and fill the back of the connectors.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 01, 2016, 07:50:45 PM
When you get some dry weather and time to get the fuse box cleaned out, invest a fiver on some dielectric grease and fill the back of the connectors.
That sound like a plan, dielectric grease. I made a start last night, cleaning up the connectors.
Tiger ran well for a few days, :icon_biggrin:. Went to start it on Tuesday night, but failed. Fuel pump not priming. :^_^
Started to work things out logically. Rechecked connections, fuses. All ok, got out Haynes manual, it indicated to check fuel pump relay. Removed relay, it was green, oh Bugger. Cleaned it up, bike ran for about 5 seconds. Stopped, no fuel pump priming. It turns out one of the connector had snapped, the one with 2 brown wires go into 1 connector.
Replaced connector, all good. I have also replaced the relay just to be sure.
I will keep you updated