Looks like I need to take off the clutch cover so I am assuming I can't reused that gasket correct? Also, anything else I should get aside from the dust seal? Looks pretty straight forward. sadly just changed the oil so I will recover it.
Mine has been broken for years and it's never been a problem.
For some reason mine just isn't happy shifting. It happened about 5k or so ago and I was living with it but it seems to have issues when in stop and go traffic. I could adjust it then a half hour later it needs more adjusting thought it might be the cable starting to break but all looks good with it.
Clutch cables don't tend to go gradually, but if yours is in doubt, check it out. If it snaps without warning it could be nasty; imagine coming to a stop, pulling the clutch as you brake for a junction and at the very last second the cable breaks. You're out into the traffic before you can blink.
As for the spring, why are you proposing opening the clutch casing??? There isn't anything in there that relates to clutch release; the spring is outside, under the lever. (According to the Haynes book of lies anyway, I've never actually been in there myself).
Just checked the Triumph manual as well, no need to go in there, unless you mean something else????
Edit: Ok, got it, you need to remove the shaft to change the spring. As John S says, it shouldn't be any big deal to leave it until the next service as all it seems to be doing is taking up some slack. The main clutch springs take care of the return so this little spring isn't adding anything except anti rattle.
Well I am pretty sure it isn't the cable as I have a spare in there already so I just swapped it over. Still having the same issues, becomes hard to shift after sitting in traffic a bit. readjusting seems to make it easier to shift until the next stop and go. I don't see what else it could be, only 20k or so on the odo, no issues with the clutch otherwise.
Having recently been through a clutch cable snap, in a rainstorm, 5 miles from home, minutes after topping off the tank, I can attest to $50+/- in a preventative cable swap being worth the peace of mind. There was no evidence towards pending failure except what seemed to be at bit more transient resistance than usual- no fraying at either attachment point, and lube seemed to flow freely through the housing.
That said, I sometimes forget how sensitive the chain adjustment can be related to shifting. My size may be a factor (210 lbs/15 Stone), but even if the chain is a bit out of spec in tension/slack, I can encounter some really clunky shifting, especially from stops.
Quote from: benebob on September 16, 2015, 09:14:07 PM
Well I am pretty sure it isn't the cable as I have a spare in there already so I just swapped it over. Still having the same issues, becomes hard to shift after sitting in traffic a bit. readjusting seems to make it easier to shift until the next stop and go. I don't see what else it could be, only 20k or so on the odo, no issues with the clutch otherwise.
That sounds more like clutch drag. If it's dragging and the plates get hot they tend to bind even more and cause gear selection issues. Didn't you have an adjustment issue recently or was that someone else?
The clutch basket arms get notched on the sides and cause clutch drag like you describe. It can be cured by a bit of judicious filing but be very careful where the swarf goes
It's a $5USD part on BikeBandit here in the States. The gasket will set you back $10. Just look under engine covers.
Quote from: John Stenhouse on September 19, 2015, 12:28:56 AM
The clutch basket arms get notched on the sides and cause clutch drag like you describe. It can be cured by a bit of judicious filing but be very careful where the swarf goes
:nod
So if anything this has gotten much worse, now you need to force it into gears (esp downshifting). Then the next shift will be smooth as butter. Oil has always been changed properly with 4t and there are not any other known issues. Would hate to rip apart the clutches with 2k oil in there and find that to not be the issue. Any thoughts? 20k for a bike to have basket issues (esp one that did most of those 20k over long distance rides) Those bimmers at Hermy's are looking more attractive day by frustrating day.
If the clutch isin't slipping, or grabbing, or not disengaging where you cannot come to a stop without stalling the bike, then maybe it's not the clutch causing shifting issues.
When you say you force into gear has the clutch disengaged? I mean when you pull the clutch lever and give throttle what happens ?
Is it disengaged and ready to shift? does it take off like the clutch isin't released? Does it slip?
Have you tried double clutching? clutch in, pressure on shifter, release clutch, clutch in and shift?
Quote from: motoOzarks on October 16, 2015, 12:15:25 AM
If the clutch isin't slipping, or grabbing, or not disengaging where you cannot come to a stop without stalling the bike, then maybe it's not the clutch causing shifting issues.
When you say you force into gear has the clutch disengaged? I mean when you pull the clutch lever and give throttle what happens ?
Is it disengaged and ready to shift? does it take off like the clutch isin't released? Does it slip?
Have you tried double clutching? clutch in, pressure on shifter, release clutch, clutch in and shift?
No slipping at all, grabs a bit on a stop. functions just fine on accell, no slipage what so ever, When you try to start it in 1st it will kind of move a bit but will start just fine, can't adjust that out no matter what I've tried. Also clunks into gear even when easy to push. Double clutching has no real effect. I am at a loss. Right now the cable is roughly adjusted equally on the threads on the bottom. No effect what so ever aside from moving the release point when adjusted tighter or looser.
So if I do order a clutch EBC okay on the Tiger or do I need to go with something more substantial.
As long as you are moving the lever all the way, meaning if you pull your clutch and then reach down can you move the lever more?
May be some wear on the inside keeping that from happening. Won't know till you check it out.
Tiger clutches don't get mentioned often........
so just a quality set, whatever your comfy with
Ordered a ebc spring kit and clutch today as well as the gasket, a new spring and seal for the shifter arm. What I don't get is that the issue comes and goes in varying conditions. Rode today about 25 miles no shifting issues at all. Tomorrow plan to put 350 or so on it but not a whole lot of shifting. If anything you would say I baby my clutch.
Using oil "additives" can lead to sticky clutch performance on a bike.
They don't rinse out all the way with a oil change either. Don't ask how I know.
If you bought your bike used the PO may have used something in there you don't know about.
Have fun on yer trip.
Only additives I use are lead and zinc (both in my TVR). Oil is maybe 1500 miles in and Mobil 4t. Looks still brown.
I accidentally put maybe 1/4 litre of Castrol GTX car oil in my Blackbird once instead of the usual Motul Semi Synth. The clutch screeched when pulling away afterwards. I changed the oil and it still took about a 1000 miles to settle down again. I know we've had war and peace on the car oil subject, but 1st hand experience goes a long way :icon_rolleyes:
Well I'm just going to start banging my helmetless head against the wall now. Got an email from Hermy's that the gasket and a few other bits have shipped, clutch was going to be ordered today, springs are here. Wouldn't you know it that in perfect British fashion she fixed herself. 500 miles this week and hasn't shifted this good ever. No clunk into first, no hard shifting, nodda, zip, ziltch. If this keeps up I will have a spare bike stocked on my shelves.
:)
Well 10 days later, today the hard shifting returned on nearly every shift. I just don't understand what could be wrong that the issue comes and goes like this. Guess I will need to order the clutch after all. Any thoughts on this? Oil is Mobil 1 4t with about 1500-2000 miles on it, looks good and brown, at the proper level etc.