hello guys, like to your opinions on the following. I'd like to make my mind...
885i tiger with 120000km
Cylinder 3 intake valves recessed at a point that one will need a 2.05 from 2.15 shim witch are probably the thinner I could put. I go for it or I look for a new cylinder head on ebay. If I go that way, what are the other triumph with the same head to raise my chances on the bay. My mind in mixed in emotion, the Time boss say put the shim, put the shim and the Equipment manager say put the head, put the head..so I left the meetings and went to the bathroom to ask.
will I need to change the stud also or they are good (did not check in the manual yet)
Where that psy phone number again.....
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag192/mesnerf/Girly%20cry_zpssdvwjx3y.gif)
** You edited this while I was writing a reply... now it doesn't mention the in/ex sprockets being the wrong way around?
are they OK after all?
yep, while taking pic, and turning the cam to take the number, I notice that there is also an inscription for the in and ex the other side and understood then it was for the gear position. You were faster than me..... :icon_redface:
:icon_biggrin: I must be having a good day... It was a great answer too, never mind.
I would be looking to either get a replacement head or the valve seats re-cut... probably the first, If you just pop in another shim then it would give you time to source a good replacement head, the studs should be fine if they look good
My 01 955i did this. All the intake valves would be negative clearance within 10k miles of an adjust. Discovered that Triumph had an issue with soft valves that would "tulip" rapidly. I found a used head almost 30k miles ago and it resolved the issue.
@sasquatch
What i should expect in job hours? Beside the head gasket, what would I need for the job. I want to buy everything at once and have it shipped to an address i have in US. Canada is the third world for this. Any advice on what to check or ask to an ebay sellers. I don't want to buy an head that is like mine
Tips or hint ?
It has been a long time since I did it. Intake and exhaust gaskets, VC gasket, valve shims, head gasket, coolant, oil, new plugs. Pretty straight forward. I did it in frame, but dropping the motor would have been easier and it is easy to drop. Get the manual, it will help with all the torque specs.
Quote from: Sasquatch on November 13, 2015, 02:08:43 AM
I did it in frame, but dropping the motor would have been easier and it is easy to drop.
I agree with Sasquatch... I have replaced my head three times. First time, I pulled the engine completely out. Second and third time, I pulled the head out the right side of the frame. It was quicker doing it in the frame and the torques were tougher but not impossible. Keep in mind, it is easier to shim your head while its on the bench. It also helps to not drop stuff down inside the engine. :thumbsup
As far as eBay goes, I bought 3 heads off eBay. When bikes get parted out on eBay, they have been in a collision of some sort. Look for the two screw ears on left rear corner of the head. They can be broken off. Get another head from another Tiger. I know that sounds obvious but some sellers really don't know what they are selling. Get one with the cams that came with it. That way you can better judge the condition of the head. Also, if they have pictures of the bare bearing surfaces... really zoom in on the pictures. If not, ask for more pictures. One more thing is to see if they have video of the bike running before disassembly.
Thanks to all. I am looking for a T1150710 cylinder head assy, 1150700 embossed on the block, that fit 99-00 tiger and 97-01 speed triple. Beside that what is the difference for the others, look pretty much the same, cylinder diameter?
I had an eyes on this one but wont fit I think
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262137708980
second choice: 2001 speed triple. so it should work. On both Ads I've asked for the number written on the head and the mileage on this one. expensive if I compare to the other one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380465710893
Quote from: klingklang on November 13, 2015, 02:36:22 PM
second choice: 2001 speed triple. so it should work. On both Ads I've asked for the number written on the head and the mileage on this one. expensive if I compare to the other one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380465710893
That second one was on eBay when I was working on my cylinder head. It's been on eBay almost a year... I was afraid to buy it because it looked like they got crazy with the sand blaster on the head gasket surface. It might be fine but the reflections off the edges look soft, almost rounded. :^_^
hum.... good to know. this is why i like this forum. anyway, they both answered and don't have the same part number that i have on mine written on the block . I think i'll follow my quest.
http://www.tankslap.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=3226 (http://www.tankslap.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=3226)
There's a guy in the UK selling that casting number for 89£. He works for Triumph and has been raiding the dumpster... He says that he wants to keep it in the community...
I am willing to bet someone from the UK might be a member of TankSlap.co.uk :icon_biggrin:
Hey joe, thanks for the hint. I've just registered and waiting confirmation. I will write to him the minute I am allowed.
Please guys, what do you think go or no go? I've asked for mileage. good contact wit the seller.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/221943562827
Quote from: klingklang on November 17, 2015, 05:06:22 PM
Please guys, what do you think go or no go? I've asked for mileage. good contact wit the seller.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/221943562827
Same guys I bought my 2000'ish mile Cylinder Head from... :thumbsup
I got the head, buckets and cams for 200£. You might ask them if they know the miles.
<BTW... I'm starting to think we were separated at birth... > :ImaPoser
Besides head gasket... and the obvious a torque wrench. You'll need:
- Shorter shims (those 2.05 shims might interfere with lesser mileage valves)
- New throttle body gasket (throttle bodies will need to be transplanted)
- Gasket Sealer for throttle bodies (Ultra Copper from auto store or discount store with automotive department)
Don't forget:
- Check cam bearing diameter (make sure it's usable).
- Head cam bearing surface diameter (make sure it's usable).
- Exhaust cam goes in front.
- Intake cam goes to rear.
- Reassemble put crank on T1 tick or TDC.
- Point cam gear arrows towards each other.
- Follow service manual religiously... torques and torque patterns.
You quite literally will need to set aside a few days for all of the disassembly and reassembly. If you don't have a service manual... get one!
Not had one of these apart yet myself so.... Do you need to re-seat the liners with Blue Hylomar as a matter of course like the Steamer guys do?
I'll hopefully be getting all sorts of good info this weekend because I'm doing one of CLive Woods T3 courses.
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on November 18, 2015, 08:55:38 AM
Not had one of these apart yet myself so.... Do you need to re-seat the liners with Blue Hylomar as a matter of course like the Steamer guys do?
I can't answer that... Initially, I did the re-seat because I did my piston rings. Second and third time I replaced the head, I did not re-seat. My bike never left the garage between all 3 head swaps.
I have no data to support or deny.Sorry...
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on November 18, 2015, 08:55:38 AM
Not had one of these apart yet myself so.... Do you need to re-seat the liners with Blue Hylomar as a matter of course like the Steamer guys do?
:nod
I've give it a go, will have it in a 5-10 days from UK.
Honey, H O N NNN E YYYYYY,
I will be here for the winter, call me when the spring knock at the door.......
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag192/mesnerf/DSC_0352%20Medium_zpsclwipglo.jpg)
your comments please
There was an aluminum spacer between the frame and the upper right engine mount. Using the manual sequence, it look like that spacer it much too thick with the new cylinder head. Can't be pushed without prying the frame. I don't remember if it was very tight. Should I pry or get the spacer thinner.?
a picture is worth a thousand words
:worthless
Quote from: 95tiger on December 13, 2015, 03:01:33 PM
a picture is worth a thousand words
Careful what you wish for :icon_eek:
Quote from: klingklang on December 13, 2015, 02:30:32 PM
your comments please
There was an aluminum spacer between the frame and the upper right engine mount. Using the manual sequence, it look like that spacer it much too thick with the new cylinder head. Can't be pushed without prying the frame. I don't remember if it was very tight. Should I pry or get the spacer thinner.?
I noticed when I was putting my tiger back together... that the spacers from side to side are slightly different widths. You might check them with a ruler or caliper.
~JD
Update: If they are only like 5mm thick aluminum washers. They might be left over from your crashbar kit.
You might of left a bread crum on your other post:
ok guys, I've put the new head. checked and overchecked the valve adjustment, turn the motor and recheck. Following the F1, I've make the first start and hear the sound, huh...deception..I have a weird clicking noise. Hard to locate. don't look like a mis adjusted valve...don't know.... timing chain?..... header gasket?... :Topes
your comments are welcome, here is the audio file....hope it work...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dznh8ugrv8t8oda/Audio%20recording%202016-02-21%2019-22-33.mp3?dl=0
Did you try and open the valves of the Cylinder Head before installing? Might be a stuck valve...
Do not run it any more than you have to... it sounds like a metal to metal sound.
Did you push the Cam Chain Tension'er in with your finger to tighten the Cam Chain?
Did you get all (3) copper seals back on the exhaust? I thought the 12Nm torque was low on mine. I used my 3/8" wrench and gave mine a quarter turn more.
:iagree I couldn't decide whether it was a leak or camchain because the audio on my laptop is not great, then read your post Joe ; lthough I'm leaning toward camchain. If valve was sticking you'd probably be getting some sort of misfire too.
I think something is catching the chain somewhere. Take the plugs out, put a socket on the crank and turn it over slowly by had to see if you can discern the click as it happens in slow time. If it's a leak of course, this won't work. You'll probably need to take the valve cover off again so turn it over without plugs on the starter and again, see if you can find it.
On the good side, it's going to be something you touched :nod
Did you do the valve clearances without disturbing the cams, i.e. using the valve tool?
If you disturbed the cam chain or rotated the engine the wrong way it's just possible the auto tensioner has tightened more than it should. Easy check, while still bolted to the engine (important) take the end cap off and remove the spring. Unbolt the carrier and carefully without disturbing the position. Count the number of teeth showing, should ideally be below 10. Clean up all the bits ready to refit. I would give the engine a couple of turns just to settle everything. With the ratchet back at zero, refit the body without the spring, push the piston in with your pinky just enough to take up the slack, turn the engine again before refitting the spring and cap.
Give it a run and see if that makes any difference. This process shouldn't take more than an hour, shouldn't cost you anything and shouldn't do any harm. If nothing else you can probably eliminate an over tight cam chain.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on February 22, 2016, 12:25:01 PM
Did you do the valve clearances without disturbing the cams, i.e. using the valve tool?
Hey Sin, he replaced his head... :sleepy1
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 22, 2016, 11:32:30 AM
Take the plugs out, put a socket on the crank and turn it over slowly by had to see if you can discern the click as it happens in slow time. If it's a leak of course, this won't work. You'll probably need to take the valve cover off again so turn it over without plugs on the starter and again, see if you can find it.
:iagree
thanks guys for all the support.
yup, new header gasket. I too found that those torque where low. I tried to use the smoke of an incense stick to check for leaks. Worth nothing, their is a huge chimney effect behind there and could not see nothing but Darling smell good!
I forgot to mention that the engine is running very smooth. Smoother than than my old head in fact. If I want to reset the cam chain tensioner again, Is it dangerous to do it without dismantle everything? The first time I did it, I've attached the chain to gear with tie raps to be sure I have no tooth jump.
Forgot about that JD :icon_redface:
With the tensioner, if you don't take the spring out before you remove the body off you won't be able to gauge the slack.
Quote from: klingklang on February 22, 2016, 02:03:51 PM
If I want to reset the cam chain tensioner again, Is it dangerous to do it without dismantle everything?
Unfortunately, you'll have to make sure your cam arrows are pointing at each other with T1 on TDC. Once your cam chain goes slack there is no telling where everything is once you reset the chain tension'er.
look like I have to get in again....... hard on the moral.... I did everything as the shop manuals (I have both triumph and haynes) say
you do have the original cam caps that belong with the new/used head ,right ?
and those matching cam caps are bolted down in the correct orientation and location ,right ?
because it matters big time if they are not !
the cam bearing surface is the alum cap no bearings
the caps are line bored and honed for each head .
Quote from: klingklang on February 22, 2016, 02:03:51 PM
..... I tried to use the smoke of an incense stick to check for leaks. Worth nothing, their is a huge chimney effect behind there and could not see nothing but Darling smell good!
:ImaPoser
Quote from: klingklang on February 22, 2016, 08:33:25 PM
look like I have to get in again....... hard on the moral.... I did everything as the shop manuals (I have both triumph and haynes) say
Burn some more incense... it's easier the 3rd, 4th, 5th time. :icon_cry:
Ooooohmmm
effin hippies :icon_rolleyes:
Back on thread, Mustang makes a very valid point. It's vitally important that each cam retaining cap goes back in its original place and the correct way round, so the new(er) head must use it's own caps, not your original ones.
yup, did that. same place. I did not had much time yet but I've there and think I saw is causing that. will probably able to confirm this weekend. To follow..... Anyway, I still have to march 15th to solve that. Why march 15? you will say...because here we can't use the bike from december 15th to march 15th by law :Topes
:new_popcornsmiley
:new_popcornsmiley Me too, not often we have a genuinely new topic....
she purrs like new!!!!!. I must admit with humility, the problem was coming from mechanic :icon_redface:
I probably forgot to torque the last bolt on the cam holder under the frame because it was to tight for my torque wrench and probably forgot it after. Now it is perfect. I took this as a chance to recheck the valve since the engine had time to turn a bit before.
I did many many things on the bike this winter. I will post a separate post for that.
Quote from: JoeDirt on November 13, 2015, 05:11:41 AM
It was quicker doing it in the frame and the torques were tougher but not impossible.
I tried to warn you... I am relieved that you got her back together. :thumbsup
Another one for the knowledge base :thumbsup
Well done mate :icon_mrgreen: