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Tiger Time => Steamers (1993-1998 Tigers) => Topic started by: RobH on October 01, 2008, 12:36:13 PM

Title: DAR - sorry to rake over old ground..
Post by: RobH on October 01, 2008, 12:36:13 PM
I've just pulled the alternator and find the metal drive for the cush gear can be moved in and out by about quarter of an inch - similar to other failures I've read about.

I'm sure I saw a 'how to' with pictures somewhere in the last few days but I can't find it for the life of me, could someone please point me in the right direction? I thought it might have been in the sticky.

If anyone can tell me which parts I need to order and replace it would be much appreciated, I know I need cush rubbers as two were missing, the other two were ok (surprisingly). Presumably some bits from this page http://www.bikebandit.com/showschematic/m17543sch561532 (http://www.bikebandit.com/showschematic/m17543sch561532) . Am I going to need to pull the clutch? I have a tool for this but obviously the less work the better ;-)

Thanks in advance for any help.

RobH
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Post by: abruzzi on October 01, 2008, 04:59:13 PM
There are  number of us that are about to repair the DAR on our bikes.  I recieved my parts yesterday.  THe key parts are:

(http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Triumph/TR-0606-2064.gif)

Primarily you need one #15, two #2s, a #1, and a #25.  Also, while you're in there I'd replace any rubber, which would be four #20s, plus the alternator O-ring (on a different page) and also the clutch cover gasket (also on a different page.)

Hopefully once I do it, I'll have pictures to document it, but if you find any how-to's or pics, let me know before I dig in...

Geof
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Post by: RobH on October 01, 2008, 06:02:04 PM
Hi Geoff,

Cheers for that, are you doing the hollow shaft and single bolt conversion? This would seem to be the most sensible thing to do but I'm on a bit of a budget :-(. Also don't want to fill my crankcase with escaped bits and pieces.

I can take a few pics whilst I'm rebuilding if required, might be a help...or might not ;-)

Cheers

H
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Post by: offtheback on October 02, 2008, 02:25:22 AM
Geoff, couple of questions on your parts:

The number 15 you ordered is the upgraded hollow shaft (I said shaft :lol: )?

The number 1 bolt, is it the spares kit or the  BOLT, M8 X 1.25 X 102.5?

Did you look into the alternator spares kit, is this all the upgraded parts all together??  

  Looking forward to this myself..  Are you going to thread the bolt through the new shaft and attach it to the old one to keep them together as you push it through, to keep the bits and pieces together..  How about a video w/ a sexy assistant, much more entertaining..   How long did the dreaded bike bandit take to send you your pieces?

After replacing the cush drive on my bike and pulling on the assembly a bit to realize it was on the clutch side I was biting my nails after putting it all together and starting the bike..  I had visions of something being moved in the clutch housing area and then bang.
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Post by: RobH on October 02, 2008, 05:02:23 PM
Jeez! This gets worse!! After the clutch shaft needle bearing dropping it's needles  I could only find 3 out of the 4 that were missing, so, I've now had to pull the sump off, the rear mid bolt seems to be impossible to get at without dropping the rear suspension so I've had to do that, to give better access the exhaust had to come off....I should have just stripped everything off in the first place.

I'm glad I pulled the sump as I found the missing needle roller and all sorts of other debris, water etc, though nothing else that would seriously threaten the engine. I'm not convinced the needles hadn't parted company from their cage before I got the bike, not sure how the 'missing' needle could have got to the other side of the sump without the engine running....

Cheers

H!
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Post by: abruzzi on October 02, 2008, 07:43:19 PM
Quote from: "offtheback"Geoff, couple of questions on your parts:

The number 15 you ordered is the upgraded hollow shaft (I said shaft :lol: )?


Yes.  The cheaper solution is to get the right spec colt for both sides and replace them.

QuoteThe number 1 bolt, is it the spares kit or the  BOLT, M8 X 1.25 X 102.5?

Did you look into the alternator spares kit, is this all the upgraded parts all together??  

I just did the M8 x 1.25 x 102.5, because I wasn't sure what came in the spares kit.

QuoteLooking forward to this myself..  Are you going to thread the bolt through the new shaft and attach it to the old one to keep them together as you push it through, to keep the bits and pieces together..  How about a video w/ a sexy assistant, much more entertaining..   How long did the dreaded bike bandit take to send you your pieces?

Provide me the sexy (and mechanically inclined) assistant, and I might never show up again.  My plan is something like this:

- Alternator bolt is good, so I assume the freeplay is from the clutch side.  Head may be sheared, or just loose and backed out--I don't know.

- If it's sheared, I hope to remove the bolt on the alternator side, line up the splines on the old shaft with the new shaft, and tighten them together with the long bolt and push through.  This will keep me from needing to drill out the bolt.

-if it's not sheared, I'll probably push from the clutch side.

- While I'm at it, I'm replacing the rubber.  the old rubber cush is pretty rotted and ripped.

If possible, I'd like to avoid drilling.  I'm also not sure when I'm doing this.  Things are pretty busy here, and I also have to put a new carb on my land cruiser.

Geof
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Post by: offtheback on October 03, 2008, 12:36:54 AM
I asked the dealership today about what comes in the spares kit and they assume it is all the upgraded parts but 'the only way to know is to order it.'  Good luck..  Did you order the clutch tool or would an adjustable clutch wrench work??
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Post by: RobH on October 03, 2008, 10:38:06 AM
**UPDATE** I've spoken directly to Triumph this morning, the part number for the upgrade kit is T122-0800, this is a shaft, nut, bolt and two hardened washers.

Early VINs to 056684 *should* be issued this kit when ordered instead of the original part.

Cheers

H!
Title: Thanks
Post by: offtheback on October 03, 2008, 01:57:06 PM
RobH

Thanks for getting the part # from Triumph.  That was my next email/call. Hope you get your bike sorted out soon and that the water floating around your case does not cause any more issues. I will ask you also.. Did you use the special clutch tool or did you use a different clutch basket tool?  Triumph didn't say if they were still providing the part for free did they?  I thought I heard they did this in the past, when the problem was identified.  That was a long time ago...
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Post by: RobH on October 03, 2008, 03:24:29 PM
Hi Greg, I had to pay for mine, you may be luckier (?) I think a lot were replaced under warranty.

I used a 'vise grip' type tool for the clutch, although I don't recommend this, the tool I used was a little too small to hold the inner drum - it was designed for use on MX bikes with smaller clutches (CR500).
http://www.ridemx.co.uk/MotoCross/Shop/ ... _Tool.html (http://www.ridemx.co.uk/MotoCross/Shop/Tools/Motion_Pro/1345_Clutch_Holding_Tool.html)

Fortunately (!) my clutch hub nut wasn't very tight so I was able to bodge a hold on the inner casting of the hub. I still have the problem of tightening it back up properly so might have to find an alternative method. I think the Triumph tool would save a lot of headaches.

I've drained a fair bit of water out of the tank today. I think the water in the sump came via the airbox drain hose and clutch cover..

Cheers
H
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Post by: RobH on October 03, 2008, 03:26:32 PM
Yikes! Just seen the price of the Triumph tool!
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Post by: offtheback on October 03, 2008, 06:05:46 PM
Yeah the tool is spendy.  A friend metioned a strap wrench, we will see.
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Post by: abruzzi on October 03, 2008, 09:58:14 PM
I didn't get the triumph clutch tool, but my brother is a professional mechanic with $30k+ worth of tools, so I figure we'll be able to jury-rig something.

Geof
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Post by: RobH on October 08, 2008, 10:29:49 AM
Woo hoo! New drive shaft is installed. Not a difficult job but care is required to keep everything in place. If you want to bolt the new shaft into the old shaft to pull/push it through you will need a longer bolt than the one supplied in the spares kit, an extra 1 1/2" should do it. I didn't bother, just used the new bolt to locate the two shafts together (it isn't long enough to bite into the thead of the old shaft). I had to remove the splined spacer on the clutch side to make things easier and give a better view of the sprag clutch bits and pieces inside the upper crank case.

Nothing was broken, I just did this as a precautionary, the clutch side bolt had come loose so whilst I was in there I thought I might as well upgrade. I suspect that whoever replaced the sprag didn't tighten the clutch side bolt properly. The threads in the shaft were probably mashed anyway from the bolt flapping about.

Cheers!

H
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Post by: offtheback on October 09, 2008, 04:26:51 AM
Right on...  I talked to Triumph today, no dice on warranty replacement.  It was a real long shot.  What did you end up using to hold the clutch basket?
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Post by: RobH on October 09, 2008, 11:18:50 AM
Hi Greg, I used the 'vise grip' type tool. If you're careful where you locate its' claws you can get a reasonable hold on the inner casting of the inner basket, I was careful not to use the threaded towers that the 5 clutch plate retaining bolts screw into, I think there's potential to damage these. I reckon it would be easier if you had an assistant who knew what they were doing. I didn't quite manage the specified 104NM torque (hulk power required!!) but it's certainly on a lot tighter than it was at about 85NM.

A couple more tips that I've found the hard way, support the clutch basket well when removing the inner sleeve and needle bearing to avoid damaging the bearing. I don't know if mine was already damaged but it dropped to bits upon removal.

If you're tempted to remove the cover plate from the inside of the clutch engine casing, for cleaning, be aware that the alloy is very soft and overtightening the bolts will strip the threads in the case. In my case one was already very loose and had obviously been overtightened before, another stripped whilst I was torqueing it. I've had to drill up to 8mm and retap the threads - not ideal! It's also quite difficult to put the plate back in without dislodging the rubber seal below it. If you can avoid it, don't take the cover plate off! Mine had to come off as it had accumulated loads of creamy oil and water cr*p via the airbox drain.

It's also quite easy to damage the clutch inner and pressure plate retaining bolts if torqueing to spec using a micrometer torque wrench. They just seem to keep on turning without getting tight. Having stretched bolts in my CR500 clutch doing this I stop short of the recommended torque when I think they're tight enough.

Good luck!!

RobH
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Post by: offtheback on October 09, 2008, 02:35:34 PM
Thanks for info..  Now get riding! :lol:
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Post by: aeronca on October 20, 2008, 10:45:14 PM
hey geof, did you take any action photo's while  you were working on you bike? im affraid i'll be doing mine soon and would love to see some visual's.     eric
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Post by: abruzzi on October 20, 2008, 11:09:26 PM
Quote from: "aeronca"hey geof, did you take any action photo's while  you were working on you bike? im affraid i'll be doing mine soon and would love to see some visual's.     eric

Not yet.  I'm hoping to do it this coming weekend if fate smiles on me.

Geof
Title: DAR repair trophy splined shaft
Post by: Colonel Nikolai on June 30, 2010, 03:10:44 PM
Thanks for the parts list Abruzzi!

In preparation for this work I also picked up a hollow splined shaft (#15 in the diagram) from a 2003 Trophy teardown for $30 on ebay along with a ton of other relevant bits to do this repair. It looks new. Is it compatible?
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Post by: Mustang on June 30, 2010, 05:05:03 PM
the splined shaft is the same on the trophy as the tiger / same part number
Title: Cool
Post by: Colonel Nikolai on July 01, 2010, 02:31:49 AM
Cool, thanks mustang. Also the 03 trophy parts bag came with a sprag clutch, too. I'll bet that's the same as well.
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