TigerTriple.com

Talk => Speaking Of Bikes... => Topic started by: NZDeano on June 19, 2012, 05:57:05 AM

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Post by: NZDeano on June 19, 2012, 05:57:05 AM
Quote from: "metalguru"The core plug is exactly that, it is a round plug of steel contained within the can and its location is found by poking some thin wire into the tail pipe and into the can, it is about 2/3 of the length of the can from the tail pipe. It diverts the exhaust gas into the absorbtion part of the standard can.
When the end cap is removed all that can be seen is the tail pipe and the end of the can which is indeed welded. It is this end plate that can be drilled. All this will do is increase the noise and make exhaust a bit freer flowing. It did work for me with some map adjustments on my 855. My 955 has benefited by fitting a Carbon Can Co end can.
TBH most guys have found the standard air filter works a treat and the K&N is just expensive gimick. While you are in the air box don't forget to remove the baffle plate, plenty of info about it on this site.
Make sure you have a complete understanding of what you are about to do BEFORE attempting any mods to the exhaust, air box or map.

MG - I thought the "expensive gimicks" selling points was that they do a million km guarentee on their filters,  but more importantly you just wash the filter out and not actually have to replace it, therby being environmentally friendly (if one is into being such) This being an entirely  seperate issue to any gains in power or not from the K&N.

I did a slow modification on my standard pipe. I started with drilling small holes in the baffle, one at a time, each time measuring the noise increase and power gains before drilling another one. Even after almost drilling the entire baffle away I still wasn't happy with the sound. It was definetly louder but not very deep or throaty (which was what I was actually after) I finally put an aftermarket can on and the sound is now pretty good, especially when wicked up a bit. But I can't seem to get that nice deep sound of a British bike that I was able to with my Scrambler and a TOR pipe. I am guessing this is because of the nature / sound of a Triple ??? or maybe I havent found the right pipe yet?
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Post by: Mustang on June 19, 2012, 06:04:28 AM
K&N's will suck fine dirt/dust  thru them ...............there's a reason they can flow 50% more air  :wink:
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Post by: metalguru on June 19, 2012, 07:22:25 PM
Knew I had this somewhere, it is a table of dirt passed by numerous filters as carried out to ISO 5011, so a scientific approach, very accurately measured.
By washing the air filter element it is not known if all the contaminants are removed and by removing the contaminant it will be polluting by virtue of the contaminant being concentrated.
The paper element is clean at fitment and at end of life is disposed of along with any contaminant in an environmentaly considerate fashion.....or rather it should be.

Had this as a poster to show anyone who wanted to fit re-useable air filters or the cone types when it was the fashion to throw away the airbox


(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/ISO5011DirtCapture.jpg)
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Post by: NZDeano on June 20, 2012, 06:17:30 AM
Thanks for the info, makes total sense. Just goes to show how easily the 'sheeples' like myself can be fooled. Here I was thinking (like many others on this forum I imagine) along the lines of - everyone suggests improving airflow to increase performance - so by installing a K&N filter you are acheiving this. But by what you are saying we are doing this at the expense of the motors longevity. So it sounds to me that it is better to get the increased flow by using the standard filter and making the modifications to the air box instead?  :oops:
Do you think this is a serious enough issue to warrant discarding the K&N and go back to standard?
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Post by: Yankee Dog on June 20, 2012, 01:58:16 PM
Quote from: "NZDeano".................. But by what you are saying we are doing this at the expense of the motors longevity. So it sounds to me that it is better to get the increased flow by using the standard filter and making the modifications to the air box instead?  :oops: .................

If you have installed a more free flowing can and an off road tune, then to get the full performance you must also increase your intake air flow. How you do that is another matter. The question of air box mods vs. different filter depends on where the bottle neck is.
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Post by: Mustang on June 20, 2012, 02:19:51 PM
Quote from: "NZDeano"Thanks for the info, makes total sense.......................
Do you think this is a serious enough issue to warrant discarding the K&N and go back to standard?
you'll have to judge that one for your self , but heres an example for you .

I won't run a k&n on my tigers or any other bike for that matter , but I do hve one on my 95 mustang GT , that never sees anything but asphalt , no dirt roads ever . Every time I remove the filter to clean and re oil there is a trail of dust residue up the intake tract on the engine after the filter .

I would hate to think what my tigers would ingest running K&N's as they get ridden for lots of miles on dirt and gravel roads that are very dry and dusty .
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Post by: metalguru on June 20, 2012, 09:43:57 PM
Yankee Dog
[/quote] The question of air box mods vs. different filter depends on where the bottle neck is.[/quote]

The restrictions are in the airbox to conform with noise emmisions, the common mods are to remove the baffle and ensure 2 intake holes are provided.

As for flow rates.....Take a dry sponge and blow through it, make a mental note of any resistance.

Now wet the sponge, leaving it damp and blow through it, there will be more resistance.

Standard dry paper filters flow air with very little resistance and good filtration for the application. Manufacturers spend a lot of money developing these components to work to their optimum within the restraints imposed, admittedly to a price.

Now think of the senario of a restricted airbox with the owner convinced to install a wet filter.............. :shock:
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Post by: Chris Canning on June 20, 2012, 11:03:17 PM
Thats reminds me I must order a new K+N,at 26 quid can't be bothered to clean the old one.
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Post by: NZDeano on June 23, 2012, 04:37:17 AM
Quote from: "Chris Canning"Thats reminds me I must order a new K+N,at 26 quid can't be bothered to clean the old one.

So Chris, are you running a K&N in your tiger or in something else? Anf if you are, what do you think of the comments on here re the dust factor as detailed by Mustang and MG?
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Post by: Chris Canning on June 23, 2012, 07:12:31 AM
This thread is one of the classic's that pop up on just about any motorcycle forum with the usual pro's and con's,I've run a K+N in my Tiger for what must be 10 years might even be more,just as I do in my 1100s or be it a little more trick(3 times as big)than stock,other 2 bikes don't have K+N's in,they have DNA which I consider better but are very expensive,I run twin DNA's in my XT660 and with a PC has transformed the bike.

With the airbox mod,K+N and aftermarket pipe mine has always run REALLY well on the tiger and there's not a snowballs chance in hell of me going back to a paper filter,there's a reasonable argument about riding in a dusty situation and not using one,I don't and I'd suggest the other 99% don't either.

Over the years when ever I've stripped the airbox off it's been fairly shitty(look at the airboxmod photo!!) but south of the filter has always been clean so I've no problems with a K+N and still enjoy the extra performance it gives,extra performance as in quick pickup off the throttle not a zillion HP.
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Post by: AK Tiger on June 23, 2012, 11:28:25 PM
Hi Metalguru,

Who authored the test that the graph depicts?  It would be interesting to read more about it.
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Post by: metalguru on June 24, 2012, 12:29:29 AM
Hi AK Tiger

It makes for interesting reading if you google ISO 5011.
Most of the sites come to the same conclusion, this one is particularly interesting (excuse the pun)!
http://www.r2cperformance.com/products/ ... sting.aspx (http://www.r2cperformance.com/products/engine_air_filter_testing.aspx)

Not trying to change any opinions held as the choice of filter is down to the owner and some have good results and others don't, just makes for interesting reading to evaluate the next filter change. As it happens I used to sell aftermarket filters and fitted them at the customers request, so no real axe to grind.

The original test was by Spicer for the GM Duramax Diesel engine and the full account can be read here

http://moto.lexp.net/wiki/ISO_5011_Dura ... est_Report (http://moto.lexp.net/wiki/ISO_5011_Duramax_Air_Filter_Test_Report)
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Post by: PeteH on June 24, 2012, 12:40:48 AM
So, has anyone actually checked out K&N`s site? these filters where designed for offroad competition in the same dusty conditions Mustang refers to. So if they dont work, maybe someone needs to tell them :wink:

Fitted a K&N to mine earlier this year... got the TOR can and remap, could`nt mod the airbox plate as its metal in mine so just hacked at the snorkle thingies :lol:

Have to say this fecker flies now...well, compared to before the K&N :D

Stricktly tarmac here.
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Post by: metalguru on June 24, 2012, 12:56:21 AM
Performed more than one operation there as the TOR map will make a huge difference on its own.
There is only one way to get the metal plate out and that is to melt the flange around the outside of the plate with a hot knife or soldering iron and pull it out that way by deforming the plate. The airbox captive nuts which hold it together will just spin if attempting to undo them. The snorkels are ok on yours as you have a pair, later 955s only have one.
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Post by: PeteH on June 24, 2012, 01:10:35 AM
Sorry Metal... TOR map already installed. Didnt think about using heat to get baffle plate out :oops:

Posted up a piccie of the snorkles when  I did the job, somehow I think the PO had put them in wrong ie the snorkle bits should have been on the outside?

Still, they`re all trimmed nice n neat now so it dont matter :lol:
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Post by: Chris Canning on June 24, 2012, 08:08:11 AM
Quote from: "metalguru"Hi AK Tiger

It makes for interesting reading if you google ISO 5011.
Most of the sites come to the same conclusion, this one is particularly interesting (excuse the pun)!
http://www.r2cperformance.com/products/ ... sting.aspx (http://www.r2cperformance.com/products/engine_air_filter_testing.aspx)

Not trying to change any opinions held as the choice of filter is down to the owner and some have good results and others don't, just makes for interesting reading to evaluate the next filter change. As it happens I used to sell aftermarket filters and fitted them at the customers request, so no real axe to grind.

The original test was by Spicer for the GM Duramax Diesel engine and the full account can be read here

http://moto.lexp.net/wiki/ISO_5011_Dura ... est_Report (http://moto.lexp.net/wiki/ISO_5011_Duramax_Air_Filter_Test_Report)

I wouldn't doubt those figures for a second,the punch line is what the test was done on,with modern day diesel trucks and vans with 300/400,000 miles are the norm(i've got one) and in that instance over that milege would have an effect.

So who's got a Tiger with 300,000 miles on then!!,it's ok putting out the facts and figures but it has to be relative,I'd suggest most Tiger motors will have gone pop with other problems way before the extra shit they ingressed had any effect.
Title: First hand report.
Post by: Ironhorse on June 24, 2012, 08:54:04 AM
I just rode for 6 days in dusty conditions, Hells Canyon in NE Oregon. I pulled the K/N when I got home and cleaned and found no fine dust past the filter.
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Post by: Mustang on June 24, 2012, 03:31:44 PM
and just like oil and tires use whatever the hell you want it's your bike after all .

and lets not forget chain lube and oilers either................
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Post by: metalguru on June 24, 2012, 06:22:30 PM
Thought it was done on 'ISO 5011 testing using one of Testand's industrial Filter Test Machines'.

Bring on the Scotoilers............... :ImaPoser
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