Hi Guys, I've got a 2006 ally wheel model with std. seat and suspension. She is just a tad too tall for comfort and I'm thinking of dropping the front end a small amount 10-15mm by pushing the fork legs up through the triple trees.
Any comments?
Just be aware that Triumph decreased rake and trail on the ally wheel bikes which already makes them a quicker steering bike compared to the spoke wheel bikes, dropping the front even more and you have the potential for making it a bit twitchy on the straights. On the spoke wheel bikes you can reverse the rear adjuster eccentrics which levels it up, not possible on the ally wheel bikes though. Id try 10mm first, 15 is a fair drop
What Tim said,I get away with mine because I have a fat 17" tyre to lean on get doing the same on a bicycle 19" and your asking for trouble,plus the side stand will be difficult.
Start at 5mm and see how you go.
If this was done on a wire wheel model would it result in a tendency for the bike to shake the head at speed ?
It can depending on the situation,mine does when I'm one up which I find quite fun but others might find otherwise.
Quote from: thebiglad on August 27, 2016, 09:14:55 AM
Hi Guys, I've got a 2006 ally wheel model with std. seat and suspension. She is just a tad too tall for comfort and I'm thinking of dropping the front end a small amount 10-15mm by pushing the fork legs up through the triple trees.
Any comments?
I have exactly the same year and wheels and when I bought the bike it had been lowered like this at a Triumph shop by the previous owner (see the pic). I have never felt that the bike is twitchy and that little bit of height was never missed by me.
That said I am about to raise my bike back up again because I put a skid plate on and I want to restore some of the clearance for the rocky roads I ride. From what I see there are 4 bolts per side on the upper and lower clamps and it looks fairly simple to do. One word of caution though - I suggest loosening and then tightening each bold individually before you get really stuck in because if one strips and it is the 7th of 8 then you are in a bit of a mess and will be out of commission until the stripped one is fixed.
Quote from: GuyMoody on September 14, 2016, 10:47:02 PM
I have exactly the same year and wheels and when I bought the bike it had been lowered like this at a Triumph shop by the previous owner (see the pic). I have never felt that the bike is twitchy and that little bit of height was never missed by me.
That said I am about to raise my bike back up again because I put a skid plate on and I want to restore some of the clearance for the rocky roads I ride. From what I see there are 4 bolts per side on the upper and lower clamps and it looks fairly simple to do. One word of caution though - I suggest loosening and then tightening each bold individually before you get really stuck in because if one strips and it is the 7th of 8 then you are in a bit of a mess and will be out of commission until the stripped one is fixed.
Hi Gus, thanks very much for the piccy and wise words. :>< Sounds like a job I need to do, with little or no downside. Time will tell eh? :hat10 :hat10
Cheers
Dave
Quote from: GuyMoody on September 14, 2016, 10:47:02 PM
I have exactly the same year and wheels and when I bought the bike it had been lowered like this at a Triumph shop by the previous owner (see the pic). I have never felt that the bike is twitchy and that little bit of height was never missed by me.
That said I am about to raise my bike back up again because I put a skid plate on and I want to restore some of the clearance for the rocky roads I ride. From what I see there are 4 bolts per side on the upper and lower clamps and it looks fairly simple to do. One word of caution though - I suggest loosening and then tightening each bold individually before you get really stuck in because if one strips and it is the 7th of 8 then you are in a bit of a mess and will be out of commission until the stripped one is fixed.
Are you sure the shop did it because that is how they used to come in the crate and not the first time I've seen guys on net riding as such assuming it was stock,but Jeeze with the change of head angle at the factory and then dropping forks that much :bug_eye even my wire wheel 955 was pretty drastic at 7/8mm in the days I had a 19" hoop.
Quote from: Chris Canning on September 15, 2016, 01:56:59 PM
in the days I had a 19" hoop.
Chris- did you move to a 21" on the Girly?
Went the other way to a 17".
OK so today I got off my arse and did some work on the front forks. It took about an hour and needed a 6mm allen bit, a 6mm allen key, a cross-head screwdriver and a good hammer.
(http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k457/thebiglad_photo/Bike%20pics%20various/2006%20Triumph%20Tiger%20955i/P1050410.jpg) (http://s327.photobucket.com/user/thebiglad_photo/media/Bike%20pics%20various/2006%20Triumph%20Tiger%20955i/P1050410.jpg.html)
Supported the bike so the front wheel was safely of the ground and slackened all the 6 mm clamp bolts and the jubilee clips that secure the fork gaiters. Then gently tapped the fork leg lowers to push them up through the clamps until there was 15 mm showing through the top clamp.
Tightened up all the securing clamp screws (torquing them to 20n/m) and gaiter clips and put tools away.
(http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k457/thebiglad_photo/Bike%20pics%20various/2006%20Triumph%20Tiger%20955i/P1050411.jpg) (http://s327.photobucket.com/user/thebiglad_photo/media/Bike%20pics%20various/2006%20Triumph%20Tiger%20955i/P1050411.jpg.html)
Then went for a test ride through a series of bends. Perhaps a TINY difference in steering speed (really marginal and definitely nothing bad) BUT now I can put both feet down flat and feel much more confident with her. All the good stuff of a Tiger 955i without that tippy-toe, top heavy, out of control feel.
All good now.............................
Cheers
Dave
Dave, if you don't mind me asking, how tall are you?
Quote from: SilverTiger on September 28, 2016, 11:12:33 PM
Dave, if you don't mind me asking, how tall are you?
Hi ST and no, I don't mind you asking at all. That's what we're for isn't it - to help each other?
I'm 6'1" but I'm a bit short in the leg (don't know for sure my inseam but guess at 31 or 32"). Since doing the modification I've been out three times on the bike and as ridiculous as it sounds, this 15mm drop has made all the difference. I no longer get apprehensive when approaching T-junctions, or stopping places in general (particularly gravelly ones) so the biking pleasure is fully back.
I did the job without removing any bodywork, but if you've got the front fairing off for any reason it makes accessing the lower clamp allen screws just that bit easier.
Cheers
Dave
If you haven't already you should consider lowering the rear too as the bike is now 'unbalanced' I did it the other way around and lowered the rear first then after it was pointed out to me I lowered the front, thats when I noticed the difference (improvement) in handling. You can rotate the concentric adjusters 180° but add a spacer to raise the chain guard to save the chain wearing it, or fit 10mm longer dog-bones.
Quote from: JayDub on September 29, 2016, 12:07:28 PM
If you haven't already you should consider lowering the rear too as the bike is now 'unbalanced' I did it the other way around and lowered the rear first then after it was pointed out to me I lowered the front, thats when I noticed the difference (improvement) in handling. You can rotate the concentric adjusters 180° but add a spacer to raise the chain guard to save the chain wearing it, or fit 10mm longer dog-bones.
But, he hasnt got concentric adjusters, its the cast wheel Tiger, so only way to lower rear is with a different shock Im afraid.
Quote from: Timbox2 on September 29, 2016, 02:47:08 PM
But, he hasnt got concentric adjusters, its the cast wheel Tiger, so only way to lower rear is with a different shock Im afraid.
Erm... I should have read the rest of the post :icon_redface: I'll get me coat.
Hi guys, I get the fact that you feel I might have done something awful to my bike and made it into a widow-maker, but honestly I haven't.
If you think about it logically for a second you'll see that dropping the clamps through the forks 15mm has only a tiny effect on the steering angle.
I did a similar thing when I changed the rear shocks on my T100 for longer versions - that also if you think about it, changes the steering angle but only a tiny amount.
Surely you are prepared to accept that the 'proof of the pudding is in the eating' in other words how does the bike feel post surgery? Well I can tell you having been out on her for about 5 hours today that she feels just fine, as she is.
Just because they came out of the factory a certain way, does not mean they can't be improved to suit an owners requirements.
I have an 02 wire wheel tiger.The front end has been lowered by 10mm,the rear left as standard.I only have stumpy 28 inch inseam legs but usually wear British Army assault boots that have a fairly thick sole.As long as I am careful at very low speed I find the bike rides fine.
Quote from: Chris Canning on August 27, 2016, 01:58:11 PM
What Tim said,I get away with mine because I have a fat 17" tyre to lean on get doing the same on a bicycle 19" and your asking for trouble,plus the side stand will be difficult.
Start at 5mm and see how you go.
Hi Chris, my 15mm mod doesn't seem to have had any negative effects on the working of the side or centre stands.
Cheers
Dave
Quote from: thebiglad on September 29, 2016, 08:43:38 PM
Hi guys, I get the fact that you feel I might have done something awful to my bike and made it into a widow-maker, but honestly I haven't.
If you think about it logically for a second you'll see that dropping the clamps through the forks 15mm has only a tiny effect on the steering angle.
I did a similar thing when I changed the rear shocks on my T100 for longer versions - that also if you think about it, changes the steering angle but only a tiny amount.
Surely you are prepared to accept that the 'proof of the pudding is in the eating' in other words how does the bike feel post surgery? Well I can tell you having been out on her for about 5 hours today that she feels just fine, as she is.
Just because they came out of the factory a certain way, does not mean they can't be improved to suit an owners requirements.
I think you misunderstood - I was merely passing on my own experience... as we do :icon_lol:
Quote from: JayDub on September 30, 2016, 11:32:18 PM
I think you misunderstood - I was merely passing on my own experience... as we do :icon_lol:
Hi JayDub, honestly I don't think I did misunderstand. Every time I post something on here I feel like I get pounced on, and often it feels like by peeps who haven't actually done the job in question. If you have changed your front forks in the manner I'm outlining then good on you - but rather too often it feels like I'm being criticised/warned off, by folks who are espousing "accepted wisdom" rather than recounting their own experience.
I believe I posted a reasonable, clear "how to" with pics on a job that helps with the Tiger achilles heel - namely high seat height -
It feels like an odd forum this, can't quite get to the bottom of it.
Quote from: thebiglad on October 01, 2016, 12:36:59 AM
Hi JayDub, honestly I don't think I did misunderstand. Every time I post something on here I feel like I get pounced on, and often it feels like by peeps who haven't actually done the job in question. If you have changed your front forks in the manner I'm outlining then good on you - but rather too often it feels like I'm being criticised/warned off, by folks who are espousing "accepted wisdom" rather than recounting their own experience.
I believe I posted a reasonable, clear "how to" with pics on a job that helps with the Tiger achilles heel - namely high seat height -
It feels like an odd forum this, can't quite get to the bottom of it.
Sounding slightly paranoid there Biglad :tin hat you WON'T find a friendlier bunch anywhere on the net mate, everyone here just wants to be helpful, you must spend too much time on ABR :icon_wink:
I asked a question once and got b*llocked - and I only wanted an opinion :icon_eek: no-one is out to get you, just trying to help and sometimes with a sense of humour which isn't always understood. - from a genuine scouser... calm down, calm down! :icon_biggrin:
Hi JD, maybe I am over-reacting a bit but I come from long history of Land Rover and Triumph forums that have much more traffic on here and the atmosphere is different.
You mention ABR ? What's that then ?
Cheers
Dave
I'll stick to the technical stuff although I've no idea why because it's all on the search button as for the website thats Attila's problem :icon_wink: who must have his finger over the bin section :icon_lol:
On a visit to the factory in 2000 with other 885i owners in a meeting with the design team the slow steering problem was raised and in hushed tones they said drop the forks 5mm in technical terms its a lot,I tried such and from there went in 1mm changes if your not too technical may not sound much but in motorcycle geometry terms its a lot at 8mm I was unhappy the front end had a tendency to fold when pushed and thst was in the dry.
After the 2 855's bought my 955 in 2001 slightly stiffer suspension but still the same old slow steering and set it up the same as the 885 but became increasing concerned with the front end when pressing on and then went with a 17" front and all the hassle that involved but should point out this is all about speeding up the front end steering this is not what you do to get your feet on the floor if thst is your priority.
Triumph introduced the mag wheeled 955 with the steeper head stock and different forks so it has little in common with the earlier version and hence geometry threads on such are all but not existent.
For those short in the leg there are plenty of threads on here about such that range from turning the rear ajuster over at the rear on the earlier 885/955 too fitting a shorter shock to match lowering the front end on the mag wheeled version.
Obviously my approaches don't seem to suit here, so I'm out.
Thanks to all the contributors who very kindly replied to my questions with information, rather than condescending attitude.
This is a very small pool....................................
Cheers and good luck
Dave
(http://d7.freedomworks.org.s3.amazonaws.com/EPA_train_wreck_0.jpg)
Well, I dropped the front on my wire wheel machine by 15mm and I've been running it this way for a few weeks now. The head shake tendency has totally disappeared, I think this must be because of the small transfer of weight to the front.
Handling is just a tad sharper, which is welcome as I found the comparison with my hack bike a bit sad. The hack is a CB500 twin which has delightful handling and alongside that I had found the Girly rather ponderous.
The legroom aspect is not of any concern to me as I have the seat at max height anyway. Oh, I didn't have any side or main stand issues either.
First things first 15 mm on a wire wheel ain't the same as 15mm on a mag wheel because Triumph steepend the head angle on the latter because of the slower steering of the former.
Plus it's all relative its OK putting up the front setting but what is the rear? And how bad is the rear shock because the chances are its knackered and sitting low so all you have done is lowered the front to match it and you are back to square one.
What I am sure about there's no such thing as a free lunch!! Drop the front end and when that next corner is greasy or has gravel on it make sure you have you dancing shoes on you'll need e'm hence my crash bar thread a few years ago.
Quote from: Chris Canning on November 06, 2016, 05:45:52 PM
Plus it's all relative its OK putting up the front setting but what is the rear? And how bad is the rear shock because the chances are its knackered and sitting low so all you have done is lowered the front to match it and you are back to square one.
Umm. No. The rear shock is nearly new. Just 3000 road miles on it.
Quote from: thebiglad on October 01, 2016, 10:10:08 AM
Obviously my approaches don't seem to suit here, so I'm out.
Thanks to all the contributors who very kindly replied to my questions with information, rather than condescending attitude.
This is a very small pool....................................
Cheers and good luck
Dave
I think I need to drink more as Dave, I'm simply shocked, I don't see where anyone was being condescending to you, your changes or anything. Best of luck but just because it is a small group simply means there isnt' a Land Rover (this coming from a guy who owns 3 Jags and a freaking TVR). LOL No need to run off!
Quote from: Ossian on November 07, 2016, 12:37:24 AM
Umm. No. The rear shock is nearly new. Just 3000 road miles on it.
With what setting and how heavy are you.
Quote from: Chris Canning on November 07, 2016, 11:47:59 AM
With what setting and how heavy are you.
As per the book, pre-load 3 and damping 5. I did try the settings for heavier but they were too harsh, I never carry a pillion, though I'm 280 lbs. and likely extra load would be about 30 lbs. max in a backpack and tank bag.
And hence why you can get away with dropping the forks 15mm :icon_wink:
By comparison I'm 180lbs in the time I had a stock shock on never set it anything but 5 with max preload and with the forks dropped 8mm the bike would steer like a mini moto the problem being 19' bicycle front wheel with a contact patch the size of a postage stamp hence why I went 17".
You can see by looking at the comparison setting mine was nose down at the front(because it was up at the back)while with your weight and settings you could probably drop the front 20mm and still be nowhere my set up.
Quote from: Chris Canning on November 07, 2016, 02:11:04 PM
And hence why you can get away with dropping the forks 15mm :icon_wink:
problem being 19' bicycle front wheel with a contact patch the size of a postage stamp hence why I went 17".
I'm running a 120/70 front on the 19" rim, this gives a meatier contact patch. Better for straight line braking performance I've found and no apparent handling downside. This combination should actually give a bigger contact patch than achieved with the 17" rim unless you are running a wider tyre ?
17" is a totally different ball game and I say that after 2 885i's and 18 months with my 955 before I changed,admittedly it was a little more complicated than that but there isn't a snowballs chance in hell of me going back and with the addition of my XR 17" just another league for road riding.
But wouldn't want to go off-roading with either although I have done :icon_eek:
:nap Thanks for this after the second "Fuck it's going over" fall I really need to drop my unit. Till this I was thinking I need longer legs or a smaller bike.
Or some Heed Bars....
Until someone shows me photo of a tiger that been thrown down the road with Heeds bars and as cheap and fancy looking as they are i'd Be going Touratech assuming you can still get them.
If I'm not mistaken the 17" conversion is bolt on a 1050 front end, correct?
My 06 handles fine with the tubes dropped an inch in the triple tree; I had to as I put on a Corbin seat and my legs don't go up to my armpits. With the giant stock front rim I don't think the bike cares much what you do with the fork tubes!
What did you do for the rear shock and stands with the 17" front rim?
I like my 06 so much that I'm willing to fiddle with it a bit to make it more of an upright Sprint type of Triumph.
My 17" front wheel is a Dymag but i'm With some home work a cheaper option can be found,shortened the side stand a tad,center stand is stick Triumph takes a little heaving but works fine,rear shock is Ohlins.
Had a conversation with Timbox the other day about buying a flybywire 1050 sport but the thought of starting all over again :icon_sad: and while the old girl lacks some HP it glides along like its on a magic carpet even compared to my X/R
Steamers glide on that magic carpet too ! :bad