TigerTriple.com

Travel - These bikes were made for riding => Ride Reports => Topic started by: BigMark on October 13, 2010, 04:42:37 PM

Title: Tiger Tracks (European Ride) – UK – Alps – Balkans
Post by: BigMark on October 13, 2010, 04:42:37 PM
The Night Before the Morning After

Emma has taken the reigns and took on the responsibility of packing the essentials, a direct testament to my past failures undertaking the same task.  Apparently two pairs of pants and a toothbrush doesn't meet the requirements of a multi week trip!
Looking on the plus side it is I that sits here annoying the cat and writing our very first update while Emma is downstairs with the bike convinced we are forgetting some miscellaneous essential.
We are only packing for three days, the plan is to do laundry this often even if in a Hotel bath tub. Emma has been shopping and has brought a whole bunch of outdoor terrain clothing which is for hiking, easily washable and quick drying. A great idea for such a trip! Although none of it is particularly fashionable, it is very practical "Well done Emma".  This bright idea has saved us a mass of space and we can get all we need inside the stock panniers and a tank bag which contains just paperwork and a camera for easy access.

We are going to be staying in Hotels, Pensions, B&B or whatever we can find for what we think is a reasonable budget of £100 per night in the EU and £60 per night outside of the EU (that's for both of us and including breakfast).
Daily expenditure is really difficult to work out but I have put an average limit of £75 per day spending money and £20 per day fuel. (again for the both of us)
We now after 50 days of grief have a green card issued with our new insurance company "Group Armour" who for £30 issue a Green Card  for pretty much everywhere in Europe. This should see us through the borders and more importantly cover us if something goes sour.  The only unknown we have not considered is the rumour of over excited Border Guards & Police who we hear sometimes charge a tourist fee for imaginary violations and non-existent paperwork discrepancies. I doubt that is true though!

Looks to me like there is just about enough time left in the day to sip back on a cold beer,  Charge up the camera batteries, dust off the compass and make a quick call informing mother in law she needs to feed & water the furry scratching thing each day until we get back.

Big day tomorrow! We have the ferry booked for the crack of noon, so it's time to close the lid on this thing and hit the sack.

I know photos are expected with every Ride Report post and they will be numerous. For this post it was a toss-up between the Cat and the Mother-In-Law . I am playing it safe so here is the cat...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/comfy.jpg)
Title:
Post by: BigMark on October 14, 2010, 10:08:25 AM
18th September Chapter 2.  En route

The next two days are more about getting somewhere than exploring so bare with me! We are awake, bike is fully loaded and fuelled, the sun is shining and we are ready to go.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/TIGERTRACKS.jpg)

I had my Datatool alarm removed as I don't have enough trust in it's reliability to take a chance and that's a good enough reason for me.  I have reverted back to the Old technology security system.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/TIGERTRACKS10.jpg)


We Planned on making it at least half way to Switzerland today. No route in mind just straight A-B. With a belly full of Porridge and a strong coffee we hit the road and leave our Village Of Goudhurst behind.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/AK20Goudhurst.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/AM20Goudhurst20Old20Bank.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/AL20Goudhurst.jpg)


Goudhurst (Home) to The Channel Tunnel is a straight forward bumble through the weald of Kent which is nice, yet very crowded. Along the A262 through to Tenterden and then along the A28 to Ashford where we join the M20 for the last 15 minutes of England and then just follow the road markings

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/TIGERTRACKS2.jpg)


When we reach the Chunnel (as it's known) The first customs/border check point of the trip always helps the holiday feeling sink in. No problems here of course, it's all fairly civilised and we are not even asked to remove our helmets, just waved through with a smile.  

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/TIGERTRACKS3.jpg)

The Chunnel was as expected, A long train with cars on it, bikes at the very back!

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/1.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/2.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/3.jpg)


 If you get stopped at the French side it is worth knowing that  "We are the scouting party for the English invasion" is not the best response when asked "why did you cross the channel today"

 "Bon Voyage" The next 2 hours went like this; SLAB-SLAB-SLAB- (Tap on the shoulder) – "Yes Dear"- "Get of the bloody highway!"  I followed my orders and left on the very next slip road where Emma explained with conviction that this was NOT an Iron Butt ride and as such the Highway is now off limits unless absolutely essential. Emma consulted the map and pointed at a spot that looked relatively out in the sticks and off we trundled.

The French sure do look after the roundabouts.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/4.jpg)

We stopped for lunch and for 5 euros we got plenty of road food and had lunch with the French Politician Camille Desmoulin in Guise.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/TIGERTRACKS4.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/TIGERTRACKS5.jpg)


More French Flat Roads As The Sun went down it was time to find a Hotel

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/5.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/6.jpg)

As luck would have it we stumbled across the best hotel room money can buy!  A Formule 1 in Battencourt-La-Feree.  £30.00

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/TIGERTRACKS7.jpg)

It was dark and chilly by the time we arrived and we found that it was not just us  suffering this Hotel. Other bikers on their way back home after a few days in the Swiss Alps where they reported it was chucking it down with rain. Hopefully by the time we get there it will have rained itself dry.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/TIGERTRACKS9.jpg)

 in one of these places gets you a Room with two planks of wood vaguely resembling a bed, an en suite sink and two coat hangers.  For anyone travelling on a tight budget these places are clean, tidy, quiet and uncomfortable. There is of course a Shower & Toilet  facility down the hall on each floor which is again clean & very plastic.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2018TH/hotel-formule-room-beds.jpg)


 We retired to our 5 star room and still had some left over Brie, bread and crisps for an equally 5 star Dinner, so we finished that and then nothing more to do than shower and sleep.
Title: 19th September “ To The Lake”
Post by: BigMark on October 14, 2010, 01:16:48 PM
We woke early this morning intent on getting  to Somewhere scenic – Lake Thun looked like a good location close to the mountain passes, so we headed in that direction. We stopped almost as soon as we left at a local patisserie to gather breakfast and left with a pastry with something in the middle, not much in the middle but something like mashed monkey which is clearly an expensive delicacy as it was very carefully used..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND4.jpg)

A little further down the road  at around Lunch time we happened across a promising looking sign..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND9.jpg)

Pulling in we discovered we were not the only British Bikers here.. (Dam Brits get everywhere)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND5.jpg)

This group was being led by Petar, Originally from Serbia now has his own tour company "Ridewithus"

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND6.jpg)

I was hungry and liked the sound of the American Style Baguette but when it arrived I found it less appealing. (not sure what is American about this to be honest) I expected Bacon and stuff!  

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND7.jpg)

Rolling up into Faulensee, we come to the Hotel Jägerhof Hubertus which was offering a lake side view room for £105.00 which I had no quibbles paying based on the budget accommodation we had last night.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND16.jpg)

I asked which room was mine and it was the one with the dead animal hanging above the door.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND13.jpg)

But we did get our very own drinking trough.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND14.jpg)


The Hotel theme seemed to be dead animals.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH8.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH6.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH7.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH5.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH3.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH10.jpg)

While Emma got ready I checked out the Balcony view..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND12.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND11.jpg)

We went down to the lake to explore..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND24.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND26.jpg)

When I eventually dragged Emma from the Play Park we  decided on the restaurant with the best balcony over the lake.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND25.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND29.jpg)

There was some language barriers to overcome as neither of us know much in the way of useable German and it seemed the Restaurant workers had the same grasp of English. Good job the menu was in picture format.   We had three choices and from the photos I made it out to be

1) A Small Striped Poisonous looking fish.
2) A Buffalo.
3) A Tin of Olive Oil and some Rocks.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND28.jpg)


Surprisingly we went for the furry mammal and a Beer.  (Quite surprising how many languages I can order Beer in.)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND18.jpg)

When Dinner arrived Emma wasted no time getting stuck in! For an Eye watering 80 Swiss we made sure we ate it all, even the green stuff.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND1.jpg)

As the sun went down the Mozzies started their dinner and I was on the menu so we headed back to check on our  washing line.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND2.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2019TH/TIGERTRACKS19THSEPTEMBERFRANCETOSWITZERLAND3.jpg)
Title:
Post by: Bixxer Bob on October 14, 2010, 01:23:01 PM
Lovin' the blow-by-blow approach Mark, keep it up! :lol:
Title:
Post by: John Stenhouse on October 14, 2010, 02:08:38 PM
Loving this too, keep us posted.
Title:
Post by: jwray76 on October 14, 2010, 02:40:52 PM
Well now this makes sitting here at work even more depressing.
Title: 20th September - To St Moritz (Almost)
Post by: BigMark on October 14, 2010, 02:55:10 PM
Another nice early start today.

A Typical European Breakfast with a Massive Jug of Coffee.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH4.jpg)

A Last look from the Balcony "I think it will be a good day"

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH146.jpg)

And Back on the Road again...
 
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH11.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH12.jpg)

Leaving the lake behind us we headed toward the Susten Pass

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH18.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH38.jpg)

Just one more Tunnel to go before the scenic bit...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH40.jpg)

Looking Back toward the Tunnel.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH149.jpg)

We took a whole bunch of Photos from the Top of the Pass.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH137.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH49.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH151.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH135.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH132.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH134.jpg)

Next Stop The Albulla Pass. This pass was very quiet and the roads are not very well maintained (More Adventure than Sports if you catch my mean)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH94.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH93.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH91.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH68.jpg)

The Top part was excellent, just rocks, how I imagine a lunar landscape...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH107.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH108.jpg)

From Here we made our way to a Town "SameDan" and stayed in the "Sport Hotel" which cost us £100. For the night.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH58.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH138.jpg)

Everything is expensive here and we wandered the town looking for a bargain bite but come up blanks and I settled for Fried Ravioli which to be fair was as dry and tasteless as it looks. Emma donated one of her Mushroom ravioli to add some moisture to my meal.

(The question was raised "Is it a Ravioli and as a plural some Raviolies?)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH2.jpg)

On the plus side, we did find this shop with the amusing name

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH.jpg)

Also we found Schindlers Lift!

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2020TH/TIGERTRACKSSEPTEMBER20TH116.jpg)
Title:
Post by: John Stenhouse on October 14, 2010, 03:39:01 PM
Just a FYI no offence but, "Americain" is a type of sausage in France
Title:
Post by: BigMark on October 14, 2010, 05:52:23 PM
:lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

Learn something new every day..
Title:
Post by: chairhead on October 14, 2010, 07:27:16 PM
Good stuff Mark,
ive also done the Susten pass,a stunning road that links up with a couple more like it,keep the pics coming :thumbsup
Title:
Post by: NeilD on October 14, 2010, 08:52:03 PM
excellent report - the 'dead things hotel' looks interesting!  :D
Title:
Post by: KuzzinKenny on October 15, 2010, 02:24:48 AM
Hey BigMark !! looks like yer havin a grrreat time !!

it all looks stunnin !!  :thumbsup

KK
Title: 21st September "Which Way Now"
Post by: BigMark on October 15, 2010, 12:20:36 PM
We woke up to thick fog this morning, So Had a leisurely breakfast (Typical European one)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/31.jpg)

 we waited until it looked like it was lifting before we packed the bike and hit the road.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/33.jpg)

It didn't last long, we had barely got 10 miles down the road when the world seemed a much brighter place.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/34.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/35.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/36.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/37.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/38.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/41.jpg)


Today we would visit the Stelvio. The weather was much colder today so the riding was slowed but the scenery and empty roads made it worth every shiver.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/42.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/44.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/46.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/49.jpg)

We didn't take too many photos on the way up as we were just 'enjoying the moment' but when we got to the top we took a whole bunch..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/7.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/8.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/10.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/12.jpg)

All of a sudden it felt like we had come a long way

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/13.jpg)

Of course too much fun + too many corners + too much luggage = A fried rear brake... Luckily this corner come complete with emergency exit so we waited here for 20 min's whilst the brake cooled down.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/14.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/15.jpg)

The Stelvio is a nice road and worth a visit but I prefered the Susten and even more so the Albulla which offer more of an adventure feel than the very busy touristic setup of the Stelvio

We are still on avoid highway and as we bear down on the Dolomites the temperature is noticeably warmer.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/52.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/51.jpg)

Our first glimpse of the Dolomites

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/57.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/58.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/59.jpg)

We found a nice view point along the road to Belunno and we took a whole bunch of photos..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/25.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/23.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/27.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/19.jpg)


The rest of the way to Belluno was boring and we got stuck in rush hour traffic. We did however find a shop and after we arrived at a Hotel and had the inevitable beer

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/29.jpg)

It dawned on us that maybe we had purchased a little too much food

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2021ST/30.jpg)
Title:
Post by: BONANZA on October 15, 2010, 05:14:59 PM
:D Absolutely brilliant Mark!! Stunning scenery and excellent shots. We need more please :)
Title: 22nd September ”What now?”
Post by: BigMark on October 15, 2010, 05:33:00 PM
Today we will go to Croatia.. It meant some time on the international highway but we were keen on getting to Plitvicka National Park..

So today we just ride, then Ride some more.  We started on some big roads.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/6.jpg)

Then I got lost and  at this point I was saying "I don't think this is the International transit route between Italy and Croatia"

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/5.jpg)

But this one was

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/4.jpg)

The time passed quickly as I had long thought of seeing the Adriatic for the first time in my life and made a self-promise to take a dip...

Skirting round the top of Croatia I see a long awaited sight. Could it be..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/8.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/9.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/10.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/11.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/7.jpg)

But there would be no swimming today, today we just skim the top edge and head inland toward Plitvicka.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/3.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/12.jpg)

Just a short distance from the Park entrance there is Villa Katja which booked us in for two nights with breakfast..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/1.jpg)

From here there is a 20 min woodland walk to the lakes passing an all important village shop to avoid park prices (Budget travel)...
We just got a glimpse of the park from the top of a hill and decided to head back before it got too dark to enjoy the walk through the woods.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2022ND/2.jpg)

Just can't wait for tomorrow.
Title: 23rd September. “A walk in the Park”
Post by: BigMark on October 18, 2010, 02:29:05 PM
Just 1km through the woods to Piltvice Lakes this morning (by foot, not bike)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/1.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/3.jpg)

Plitvicka is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Croatia and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  There are sixteen crystal clear  lakes in the park all joined with remarkable waterfalls. It is also quite a haven for wildlife  which thrives in this 300 square kilometre park including Bears, wolves and Boar.  You need a  complete day here which can easily be swallowed up wandering around the park.

We decided firstly to take the boat trip across the big lake to the main food area which wasn't exactly busy for breakfast.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/6.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/7.jpg)

We followed the path round to the first set of falls (I think the path was particularly cool)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/32.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/34.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/23.jpg)

More crazy paths and cool waterfalls.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/36.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/16.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/30.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/27.jpg)


Then we decided to take the path around the outside of the lake

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/29.jpg)

And found some fungi... (Not  that I know what kind)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/11.jpg)
 
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/24.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/12.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/2.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/13.jpg)

There were loads more too but that's probably enough photos of them.

Then onto the far end of the park as time was running out.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/31.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/22.jpg)

Down the steps to the bottom of the 80m and largest fall in the park.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/14.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/15.jpg)

Just enough time left  to zig zag across the lower falls on our way to the exit,

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/18.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/17.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/16.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/21.jpg)

It wasn't particularly late about 5pm I think but as we were in a valley the Sun was disappearing behind the hills pretty quickly and the fading light led to some interesting reflections.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/38.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/37.jpg)

I forgot  to mention the fish, Zillions of fish everywhere..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/39.jpg)

Then the final stretch up and out of the park just as the sun disappeared from sight...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/35.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/40.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/43.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2023RD/42.jpg)
Title:
Post by: Sin_Tiger on October 19, 2010, 11:45:54 AM
Fantastic trip & report Mark  8)

Don't think the furry riding suit will catch on though  :lol: you could always put some fangs on the front of the C3 though!

I love Swiss / Austrian breakfasts.
Title: 24th September "To the Coast"
Post by: BigMark on October 19, 2010, 02:46:11 PM
We had an invite from a fellow ADV rider that if we ever make it to Trogir we should stay as his guest.  So I text him this morning  telling him I was on my way.

We left Villa Katja nice and early in the morning and it was a beautifull looking day as we packed up and set off.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/1.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/2.jpg)

But no more than 10 miles down the road we hit some really cold thick fog, visibility was down to about 5 car lengths.  

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/27.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/28.jpg)

As soon as we gained elevation near gracac we rose above the fog and left it behind like a blanket of cotton wool covering the lowlands.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/29.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/30.jpg)

From here onwards the weather was just the way we liked it...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/35.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/8.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/46.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/48.jpg)

Coming down into Zadar we followed some Slovenian bikers for a short while and finally reached the coastal road.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/53.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/57.jpg)

We followed this road all the way to Trogir.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/64.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/70.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/75.jpg)

Finally Trogir and the coast, time for my long awaited dip in the sea..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/10.jpg)

But actually by the time we met our kind host got organised and went back to the town it was a little late in the afternoon and I was feeling the chill. This is the best I could manage today
"Tomorrow I will take a swim in the sea" I told myself

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/9.jpg)

Now time for a wander around Trogir. Trogir is a wonderfully quaint little Town with very close walled streets and many, many restaurants.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/11.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/14.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/12.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/16.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/18.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/20.jpg)

It soon gets dark when you are having fun.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/25.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/21.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/22.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/23.jpg)

Thanks to our host, this evening we ate in possibly the finest Restaurant in all Trogir.  "Restaurant Capo"

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2024TH/26.jpg)
Title:
Post by: chairhead on October 19, 2010, 08:18:17 PM
Keep it coming Mark,
first class :thumbsup ride reports dont get any better,
thanks for sharing.
Title:
Post by: kraftykarper on October 19, 2010, 09:56:18 PM
Fantastic pictures! Inspiring! Makes you want to get on your bike and go somewhere.
Title:
Post by: mat-tiger1 on October 19, 2010, 11:43:31 PM
Loving the ride report Mark  :thumbsup

Sooo jealous  :cry:

I'm with the rest of the lads though,  :wav  great photos & write up,  :bowdown keep it coming & have a great time  :rock-1

All the best,
Mat-tiger1
Title: 25th September “Our day off”
Post by: BigMark on October 20, 2010, 02:37:23 PM
Something happened to the weather overnight, Laying in our bed listening to the wind picking up followed by that all too British "pitter patter" of rain drops.  This eventually turned into torrential rain. The thing is when it rains in this part of the world, it really rains! None of this spitting about or drizzle just an absolute soaking which appears from nowhere lasts 24 – 48 hours then disappears just as quickly as it arrived leaving you with brilliant blue skies and not a cloud in sight..

 Today being the shortest entry in our report as all we done was  pop to the market for supplies and the hide under a tree on the beach and drink beer.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2025TH/3.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2025TH/1.jpg)

Maybe I will swim in the sea another day!
Title: 26th September “The Bridge“
Post by: BigMark on October 20, 2010, 02:37:59 PM
Contrast is the best  word for Bosnia,  On the most part people are friendly, appear happy and always willing to help, there are bustling modern cities and all the amenities you would expect from western Europe. A complete opposite to this exits in the smaller towns and you can find an alarming number of places and people that still carry the scares of war clearly.  

One more thing I find quite interesting with Bosnia during my brief visit was that they have a Coffee for everything. A variant of what is Known worldwide Bosnia as "Turkish Coffee" it is prepared in copper coffee pots known as "džezva" or in other small cooking pots and served in special miniature coffee cups known as "fildžan" The Bosnian culture has a strong basis on coffee and the time of day or event will dictate which coffee is most appropriate!  You will have "razgalica" for the first coffee of the day which is traditionally strong and thick with the intention of waking and also cheering up for the day ahead!  They have "razgovarati" a coffee which is to be enjoyed mid –morning with friends and work colleagues!  In the Afternoon/Early evening to help you relax and stay calm you will drink "sutiti" this is to be consumed between the hours of 5 & 7pm.  They even have a coffee to let you know you're welcome has finished, when you receive a cup of "sikter" you know that after it is finished you must go somewhere else.  What a wonderfully ingenious idea.

So we left Trogir this morning in the rain (hence the lack of photos) and headed to Mostar where I heard a rumour on the border it will be sunny today. And they were right..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2026TH/11.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2026TH/10.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2026TH/EXED.jpg)

The cold and wet had just about taking its grip and although the sun was now shining we needed to get to a hotel with some luxury to recover..

We took the road to Sarajevo and come to the Hotel Terme Spa and promptly booked in to a superior room a massage , Jacuzzi and underwater hydro massage...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2026TH/ilidzaHotel.jpg)

It was deemed inappropriate to take photos so here are just enough  photos from this hotel just enough, to show you some of the amenities.

The Bar Area

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2026TH/bararea.jpg)

The Gym

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2026TH/gymarea.jpg)

The Swimming Pool

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2026TH/swimmingpool.jpg)
Title: 27th September “Sarajevo”
Post by: BigMark on October 20, 2010, 03:01:48 PM
Well not completely in the spa, we started the day with a massage (like you do) before heading out to the Old Town Sarajevo.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/24.jpg)

The Old town is a series of small streets with shops selling all manner of shiney trinkets

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/1.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/2.jpg)

Emma wanted to buy this Teapot but there was some small logistical problems which we could not overcome.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/5.jpg)

Then past the Mosque

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/6.jpg)

And onto Pigeon Square

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/7.jpg)

Everyone here seemed to enjoy feeding the pigeons.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/9.jpg)

The Pigeons expected to be fed and anyone standing up in their domain either fed them or was brutally attacked!

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/8.jpg)

That was enough of Sarajevo for us so we headed for the hills.  

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/23.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/22.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/15.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/20.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/21.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/18.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2027TH/11.jpg)

Then back to the hotel for a tad more pampering.
Title: 28th September “To Durmitor”
Post by: BigMark on October 21, 2010, 03:08:51 PM
This sounds like a horrible thing to say but the road out of Sarajevo and leaving Bosnia was probably the best road we travelled. I mean that in the sense of scenery and it had a certain something I cannot put my finger on...  

The roads were a bit ropey

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/37.jpg)

And they weren't too concerned about barriers

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/38.jpg)

But it sure was pretty!

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/39.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/40.jpg)

Finally Montenegro

Our first 10km in Montenegro brought us through many of these Tunnels

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/56.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/57.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/1.jpg)

And across some outstanding canyon bridges

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/5.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/47.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/48.jpg)

And to the Lakes the River fills with it's sparkling blue water.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/55.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/51.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/6.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/8.jpg)

Then we went up the hill and onto Durmitor

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/63.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/61.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/64.jpg)

Nearly there...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/71.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/10.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/13.jpg)

The Road here also doubles up for the NetBall/Basketball court

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/78.jpg)

Finally, we see Durmitor, and it was ,of course, covered in cloud...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/83.jpg)

So we waited

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/14.jpg)

And waited

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/15.jpg)

And with this shot decided we had seen enough

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/16.jpg)

Now we needed some direction so we looked for a sign. Here it is.. "Let's go to Zabljek"

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/69.jpg)

Off we trundled along the lane and down from the heights of Durmitor

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/85.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/89.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/90.jpg)

A Glimpse of civilization

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/91.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/92.jpg)

And we come across this vibrant bustling place...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/94.jpg)

Traffic was a nightmare!

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/96.jpg)

Total Gridlock!

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/99.jpg)

But we battled through, missed Zabljek and came across this bridge across the Canyon

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/17.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2028TH/25.jpg)

I made a decision (with Emmas permission) to make a beeline toward the coast "I will swim in the Adriatic" even if it's cold, even if it's raining" so the camera didn't come out much and we made it all the way to Podgorica and stayed one night in the Hotel Lovcen ..
Title:
Post by: BigMark on October 22, 2010, 02:56:04 PM
29th September "to the coast, again"

Whatever happened today, no matter what the weather,  I was swimming in the sea!  

Leaving the Lovcen we were only an hour or so from the coast and it was a toss-up between Bar and Pogradec.  We decided on Pogradec, the smaller quieter location of the two..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/19.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/20.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/23.jpg)

When we got there it looked a little Grim for a swim...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/26.jpg)

But the weather was improving and Emma showed me the way

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/29.jpg)

So now my term, none of this paddling lark for me "in for a penny and all"

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/32.jpg)

What with the continuously improving weather and my successful Adriatic adventure we thought we would go find some refreshments.

And so we set off along the coastal path and come across some interesting sights...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/11.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/3.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/6.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/7.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/1.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/8.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/11.jpg)

Finally, something to quench the thirst hmmm

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/9.jpg)

Would you believe it, the sun went down and the day was over, at least for all except the late night swimmers and fisherman...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/12.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2029TH/13.jpg)
Title:
Post by: outrunner on October 22, 2010, 07:16:46 PM
Great report Mark, looking at your pictures makes me think I should rewrite my bucket list! :D


Andy.
Title:
Post by: John Stenhouse on October 23, 2010, 12:52:05 AM
Great shots Mark. Love the one with the cannon and the one after, looks like someone set the cannon off and that broken island was the result.

I know my vivid imgination again.  :lol:
Title:
Post by: aesdj on October 23, 2010, 09:47:03 PM
Well done Mark an absolute cracking write up/pictures. Glad you finally got to do your swim. Must remember to stay at the hotel with the nice bar/swimming pool + gym if I ever get out that way.
Title:
Post by: Sin_Tiger on October 25, 2010, 09:22:02 AM
You utter B!@#$%d, very commited and no doubt happy B!@#$%d though, brilliant, enjoying it almost as much as you are, thanks.
Title: 30th September "To Albania"
Post by: BigMark on October 25, 2010, 02:58:30 PM
Albania is the one place that I have been given the most mixed opinions on. ½ the people that go hate it and tell you it is dirty and the people are rude, the other half think it's spectacular and the locals are very hospitable. Makes me wonder if this contrast is testament to the country or the traveller.  Albania has suffered a turbulent past going back throughout History and has been sieged and occupied by half the world and even endured many civil wars. Polished off with a nice dose of communism in past years led to a stagnant economy and a poverty stricken community. However, usually I am surprised by the people of a place and how unreflective they are of the "common" perception.

So we left Pogradec and headed South.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/8.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/9.jpg)

A quick stop in a local Auto Service for some fine adjustments

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/11.jpg)

And onwards we go...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/12.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/15.jpg)

Of course you could stop at 100's of these bays along the way but the border was inland so we said our final goodbye to the Adriatic and headed for the hills.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/14.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/17.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/18.jpg)

A couple of photos just before the border (They get funny about cameras)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/19.jpg)

And we are In. (a few minutes at the border arguing over the V5, I just keep saying "English Log Book" then he gives up and let's me through.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/21.jpg)

Our first experience in Albania was all these people with nowhere to live so they just build little shacks next to the river.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/25.jpg)

An Albanian Bridge

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/28.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/27.jpg)

The Highway was interesting too. Just a wide slab of Road with no markings or barriers and you just make as many lanes as you can and go as fast as you like, in any lane you like, with any vehicle you like.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/31.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/33.jpg)

I wish I had taken more photos here but as it is.... We filled up at this station and the owners "Two Brothers" then took us to the café next door and treated us to coffee, asking about our bikes, our jobs, our country and how they had a cousin that looked just like me but lives in the Albanian hills and wrestles bear!  "I don't know about that"

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/36.jpg)

We eventually ended up in the City Tirane and the roads looked just like any other city roads.... Almost!

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/37.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/38.jpg)

The back streets were slightly less maintained – en route to Hotel...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/44.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/41.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/42.jpg)

 Of course, no trip to Tirana would be complete without a trip to the National Martyrs Cemetery of Albania.  Here lies 28,000 Albanian partisans who perished during the second world war. There is a 12-metre statue of "Mother Albania" holding a wreath of Laurels and a star. Enver Hoxha was also laid to rest here briefly before it was decided that he should be dug up and moved to a more fitting and humble location in a public Cemetery.


(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20SEPTEMBER%2030TH/7.jpg)


That was about it....
Title: 1st October “Hmm”
Post by: BigMark on October 25, 2010, 03:06:55 PM
I don't know that I should post this diary entry but it's how I feel and everyone's entitled to an opinion...

We went into Tirane, spoke to a few locals who all asked the same thing "Why did you come to Tirane, you should go to Bajram Curri, Korce, Permet or the coast, Not Tirane!" I took it with a pinch of salt to start with but actually, and I mean this with no ill intent... There is nothing at all that I found interesting enough in Tirane to talk about so I just took this photo of the lake and we decided tomorrow we will leave.  

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%201ST/DSC03012.jpg)

To sum it up I am not happy with my chosen direction in Albania and as a result of poor planning haven't really enjoyed it here. I will come back though and I will do some more research first! I think at this stage our relationship with Albania is on the rocks so best we spend some time apart... We look at the map and decide that Ohrid is our next destination...
Title:
Post by: NeilD on October 28, 2010, 08:08:15 PM
were you being overtaken by the horse and cart?! what do they feed their horses... ?  :D
Title:
Post by: Hemibee on October 28, 2010, 10:07:46 PM
I'm enjoying the report and the pictures!  Tirane may have not been much but you've been there and you got to see something different from what you would have seen at Bajram Curri, Korce or a host of other locations.
Title:
Post by: Sin_Tiger on October 29, 2010, 05:46:20 AM
I wonder what "KASTRATI" means to them?  :shock:
Title:
Post by: BigMark on October 29, 2010, 10:44:59 AM
@Neil – You Know me, nothing like a nice flower sniffing ride down the Motorway. I was going to point out which side of the road we were driving on, but that really doesn't make any difference in Albania.

@Hemibee – I didn't like what I see in Tirane, I am glad I went to figure this out though. The people were wonderfully hospitable and always happy to talk. They seem to have a Poker Face to start with. Very sincere and almost "tough guy" look but as soon as you nod, smile or attempt communication you realise that actually they are unusually friendly. We stayed in the Hotel Baron for two nights and when we left we got hugs from the staff and one of them came out to the car park and was praying for a safe journey. This was way outside the behaviour I am used to at home, but it didn't feel weird and certainly not uncomfortable.

@Sin-Tiger – Seriously?  The Kastrati are an Ancient Albanian Tribe and they still exist today!  I don't really expect you to know that of course. I imagine most people think it is the Oil supplier but I happen to know that this is BP Oil.

Did I tell you guys about the Demon Squirrel & the Walnut yet ???

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/5.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/3.jpg)

Dam these photos take some uploading.  There will be more today.
Title:
Post by: BigMark on October 29, 2010, 12:34:21 PM
2nd October. East "Neim's Place

Now Neim is a motorcyclist who owns a small Restaurant/pension  in Ohrid. He is fairly widely known in the Balkans and pops up from time to time in Ride Reports and conversations regarding the area.  That sounds like the place for us! We have no address just know that he is in the City of Ohrid which is a very small City with a very big lake. So we say our farewells to the Hotel Staff and head out east to cross the mountain range to Macedonia.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/62.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/64.jpg)

Why wouldn't there be a place called Mullet City ?

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/65.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/67.jpg)

They are fairly relaxed about the location to dump vehicles.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/70.jpg)

Finally, the hills were upon us (well, more the other way round actually) I feel so much happier when I am high up on the side of a hill. I must have been a Goat in a former life. Emma thinks more likely a Yeti...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/72.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/74.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/75.jpg)

This shit running down the road wasn't water. It was Uber Slip lotion.. Dam that was scary!

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/76.jpg)

Luckily we got through OK and made it to the top.  

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/77.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/78.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/81.jpg)

The Local Shop was open

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/84.jpg)

Overlooking Elbasan.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/86.jpg)

Of course what goes up must come down. This time down into Elbasan..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/88.jpg)

There was no shortage of orange stalls.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/91.jpg)

Welcome to Elbasan

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/93.jpg)

This was a short place, before I knew I had entered we were already out the over side.  

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/95.jpg)

Not the typical Albanian house.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/97.jpg)

This was the last photo just before the border

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/99.jpg)

And into Macedonia we trundled for a view of the massive lake Ohrid

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/103.jpg)

On our way to Ohrid

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/107.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/108.jpg)

We struggled to find our way to Neims place we knew it was centrally located in the Town but couldn't find our way in.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/109.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/111.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/113.jpg)

So we followed the locals who looked like they may be heading to the Town centre.  Only problem was they used the pedestrian zones – As did we.... At least we found the Town Centre..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/115.jpg)

Moments later we see the sign for Neim.. Perfect.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/2.jpg)

Then we parked accordingly.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/9.jpg)

As it was barely after noon we decided to wander down to the lake through the Old Town. Which is when I photographed the Demon Squirrel

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/5.jpg)

Some of the vehicles, again, are real old clonkers

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/6.jpg)

An old amphitheatre

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/8.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/17.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/18.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/19.jpg)

We reached the lake Ohrid.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/26.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/33.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/31.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/28.jpg)

My favourite view of the Lake.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/34.jpg)

Following refreshments we walked up to the Fortress of Samuel. And on the way ...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/37.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/36.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/41.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/42.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/38.jpg)

A Few from the fortress as the sun went down.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/44.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/46.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/47.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/54.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/60.jpg)

It wasn't just us appreciating the view.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/58.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/57.jpg)


Then back to Neims for his unique Secret spiced chicken and bed.. View from our balcony...

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%202ND/61.jpg)
Title: 3rd October “Lazy,Lazy”
Post by: BigMark on November 10, 2010, 04:46:36 PM
Surprising how the days pass obliviously..

Done very little today, spent the day milling about Ohrid and riding up and down the mountains to the east. Was great fun but I forgot to charge up the camera batteries so photos are a little limited.

It was very quiet in Ohrid today as the tourist season has passed and mostly life has returned to normal for the locals..  

On our way down to the lake we come across this statue

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%203RD/DSC03074.jpg)

Then out on the old collapsed Jetty to soak it all up before we leave tomorrow heading North.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%203RD/DSC03076.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%203RD/DSC03079.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%203RD/DSC03081.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%203RD/DSC03083.jpg)

We also went up the hill for another angle of the lake which is when my battery went flat and I run out of photos to keep your eyes busy..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%203RD/DSC03088.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%203RD/DSC03089.jpg)
Title: 4th October “To Skopje”
Post by: BigMark on November 11, 2010, 01:17:53 PM
We watched the weather last night and realised that the late Summer was briskly turning to Autumn Winds, Rain and plummeting temperatures. With the impeding weather front we decided that it was time to make a bee line home and call it a year.  
We knew we would be passing Skopje, it is unavoidable. We also knew the founder of the ever popular Moto Mariovo Tour lived there and "Benny" being a typical  Balkan Biker chap would always welcome a fellow biker and help arrange a Hotel or similar.  So I called Benny who told me to "Screw the hotel, you guys are staying at my home"  That couldn't have worked out better for us. Benny gave me some directions to Skopje via Debar and the Mavrovo National Park.  Benny is one of those TV Chef types and has an afternoon slot so wouldn't be about until after 4pm so we took the long way as he suggested..

Well almost as he suggested, we did manage to get lost a few times.

We headed out of Ohrid to the West until we found the sign which says "Debar" then turned left. All good so far.  Then we took the next left as instructed and that's when we figure this must be the wrong way.

Our instructions tell us now we should be riding a nice wide flowing fast motorcycling road . I realise opinions are just that but surely this was not the way!

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12101.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12103.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12130.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12099.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/Macedonia.jpg)

Eventually we came out on the side of a hill alongside a river and our instructions defiantly involve following a river so finally I felt I was on track.  

The road hugged the edge of the hillside

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/111.jpg)

And followed the path of the river and man-made lakes all the way to Debar

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12115.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12116.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12117.jpg)

We just about skimmed the edge of Debar on our way North and with the blink of an eye we were back in the hills following the river once again.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12120.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12127.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12123.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/SDC12121.jpg)

At this point we joined the Main highway and to spare you the details it started raining and we got our head down and arrived in Skopje just in time to meet Benny in the Town Centre where we went back to his house for dinner and then onto the town where I experienced the Skopje Custom Bar (M/Cycle pub) Boza and some Tulumba.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%204TH/tulumba.jpg)
Title: A Few Day To Get Home
Post by: BigMark on December 31, 2010, 12:28:40 PM
A few Days To Get Home

As the weather was pretty poor and the forecast looking pretty Grim the next few days were mostly about avoiding the rain and squeezing in one last location. "The Serbian Taster" as we are going to call it. We really wanted to explore Serbia but not so much now that the cold & wet weather has settled in for probably the next 4 months. From what we see of Serbia I am drawn to go back and explore some more. It is extremely clean in contrast to the other surrounding countries and everyone we met were very happy, friendly, helpful and generous.  I met a Serbian chap in France who was concerned that in "deep Serbia" where we were heading of course! We may not be very welcome due to past problems I am tied to because of my Nationality. I have to say that I found nothing at all but smiles in Serbia. From the person that hand makes and bakes your Burek for breakfast, to the person that fills your bike with petrol, absolutely all of them more approachable than most of the Natives at home.
 We happen to know a chap in Kraljevo and despite the abysmal weather a warm welcome would certainly be guaranteed so we headed off the Highway some 80 miles or so to the West Central region of Serbia to say "Hi".

I don't generally share photos of private hosts but needless to say the generosity of our hosts on this trip has been  a step beyond anything would have imagined... We spent two days around Kraljevo enjoying the fabulous local restaurants and wonderfully well kept surrounding countryside.  I was going to pinch some photos to post because nobody wants to see the rainy wet cloudy photos I managed to take. Instead just Google Kraljevo and enjoy...

We left Kraljevo well fed and well taken care of heading toward home and back to reality... We made it to Bled in Slovenia and found a Hotel there to rest up the night before continuing further toward home. The Next morning the sun was shining and although a little cold we decided that we would make an Iron Butt Ride Attempt to cover 1600miles in 24 hours and get us home a little earlier than scheduled so we can make the Iron Butt Ride To Eat scheduled in Canterbury 30 hours from now.

The Fog lifted very quickly as we headed out of Slovenia

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%207TH/SS1600k.jpg)

Within no time we were in Austria and met our first obstacle.. Tunnel Closed..

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%207TH/SS1600k1.jpg)

Luckily this was a short lived problem and we were soon enjoying the warmth of a beautiful day riding on wonderfully smooth wide open Austria roads.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%207TH/SS1600k4.jpg)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%207TH/SS1600k5.jpg)

But then we crossed into Germany.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%207TH/SS1600k6.jpg)

 I swear this place has the worst traffic in the world (at least when I visit) We spent hours filtering through endless queues of traffic for the entire 3/400 miles of German roads before escaping to the very amicable French Toll Roads as the sun went down.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%207TH/SS1600k9.jpg)

Something went crazy wrong with my rear gunners photo skills as we clicked through 16, 17 & 18 hours into our days ride.

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%207TH/SS1600k11.jpg)

Just as well we were all but done. Here we after our 19 hour 1680km Iron Butt Ride (Subject to Verification)

(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/dingledongle/TIGER%20TRACKS/TIGER%20TRACKS%20OCTOBER%207TH/SS1600k14.jpg)

All that remained was to get some sleep and then get to Canterbury for the IBA meet.

I hope you enjoyed the Ride Report. Thanks to everyone for helping, hosting and reading..
Title:
Post by: ourade on January 02, 2011, 11:25:18 PM
Excellent ride report.
Thanks
Ade.
Title:
Post by: NKL on January 03, 2011, 06:50:27 PM
Nice report Mark, I am planning a similar tour for this year, has inspired me with places to visit. Thanks
Nigel
Title:
Post by: BigMark on January 04, 2011, 02:45:36 PM
Thanks guys.

Here's to 2011.

I have a few shorter rides planned (Approx 7) to share during 2011 which it may be worth hanging around for (or joining me on) :lol:

Failing that Tiger Tracks (or similar) 2011 is being planned and who knows where that will take me.  :shock:
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