Hi,
Just got back from a 50 mile trip when the bike ran fine. Just getting home and it started to stutter before cutting out. Would not restart. Then noticed petrol dripping from bottom of engine. I have noted that the fuel appears to be coming from airbox drain hole. Does this mean that the fuel is somehow getting into the airbox instead of the...where it should! What do I need to do to rectify this? Many thanks in anticipation.
Stuck carb float/needle valve?
Had this last year on my '98 (Keihin carbs) faffed about for ages moving the rubber tipped float valves around and cleaning up the seats, but the problem used to come and go. in the end i got fed up with getting the carbs in and out so bought 3 new ones from Sprint manufacturing. No re-occurrence since.
I assume it was the tips going hard over the years and not seating properly.
hi again, thanks for the info. Does that mean I have to strip the carbs again? Is it a simple job of buying the new needles and just swopping them or will it need setting up in some way? What about the petrol in the air box? It's new, do I need another new one? many thanks.
May just need new needles,or it could be a dislodged float assembly? as what happened to me once! No need to change filter,unless it needs a one?
Get a set with all new O rings from Steve at Motocarb in Liverpool. You should only need to set the float heights. If the air filter is old it might have suffered, otherwise you might be lucky and it's just dribbled down inside cheaper solution would be a K&N filter.
Hi sin, looks like he only does mikuni. Also, I'm reading slightly different descriptions here. Is it float valves or float needles or something else? And what o rings do I need? Do I have to take the carbs out or can I work on them in situ? Do I need to do each carb? Will it be obvious where the problem is? Sorry for all the questions, my one and only delve into carbs ended up at dealer and a few more grey hairs. Thanks
Look here, about 3/4 down the list for Keihin parts.
http://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/index.php/26/435297
Not cheap, but this is the only place I have found Keihin parts, and there a good supplier.
Pulling the carbs is "Fun" so perhaps worth blitzing it.
I'd probably just try
Keihin float needle
Product code: J553
and
Keihin float chamber seal
Product code: J552
Good luck
If you've got Keihins, you do not need any o rings. You'll def have to pull the carbs to do it.
Get e'm on a bench turn them upside down and strip the bowls off (may be a good idea to have 3 new seals ready). Where the floats pivot you can push the pin out and lift out the float assembly with the valve hanging off the little tab in the middle. Replace it and put it back in. Do all three then check float height by tipping the carbs backwards until the pin in the valve just stops the floats (best to youtube this to see what i mean). Adjustments are made by bending the little tab very slightly. Once done, get them all back together then I recommend checking the float height again by setting up your fuel tank on the bench above the carbs, connect 'em up and turn fuel tap on. Again, youtube the next bit to see what I mean, but you need a clear tube attached under the carb that turns up alongside it, then open the drain screw to see the level. Do each one in turn.
The only problem I found was that the haynes manual refers to mikuni float height only of 14mm. I researched the Keihins as they are used on some jap stuff and found their height was different. It's in one of my posts somewhere, I'll find it and post later. I couldn't work out how to relate this to where the level should be when you use the clear pipe, so I plumped for approx 2mm below the float bowl surface (i.e where it seats to the carb body). Once i'd finished I left them set up on the bench with the fuel switched on for a longer period, I did get a little bit of fuel seeping out the back of one carb through the little holes that are part of the pilot circuit, but it was only a little bit, not enough to have the original problem we both had of fuel pouring out of the airbox.
It all sounds complicated but it's not really, spend a bit of time watching you tube to get your head round it first.
I would def recommend spending a bit more time checking them on the bench to make sure, cos it's bloody frustrating getting them back in only to find out you'll need to pull them again cos you've got one wrong.
Dunno whether you have a manual or not but to get 'em out it's like this;
side fairings off
tank off
seat and seat side fairings off
battery out
side pods of airbox off
remove choke cable
undo jubilee clips to airbox and head rubbers (leave head rubbers attached to head)
pull back airbox as far as possible
start wiggling and remove carbs to the right hand side
once out it is then easier to get throttle cable off.
Hope this helps, I'll go find that float height
Here's my old thread to read
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13366.msg102239.html#msg102239 (http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13366.msg102239.html#msg102239)
Hi Gav, This is so helpful, thank you very much. I will replace needle floats and float bowl gaskets. I think I have it but just a couple of things I'm still not sure about. Hope you can help. If I have it right when I put it all back together:
The main jet should be hand tight after cleaning?
The pilot jet should be backed off so many turns (I intend to take them out, ensure they are clean and then put them exactly the same)
Once the carbs are back in do I sync them using carb tune type thing and then adjust the air/fuel using the appropriate screw or the other way round? Is there only one screw to adjust both air and fuel? Do I do this by ear for all three carbs until it sounds sweet?
Is there anything I have missed?
The only screw you can adjust(mikuni)is the idle mixture screw..the screw at the bottom of photo,between the 2 holes!. Mustang suggests 2 -21/2 turns out. Get them all the same,then synchronize carbs using a Morgan carbtune.
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7600.msg52526.html#msg52526
Quote from: threepot on February 11, 2015, 02:17:09 PM
The only screw you can adjust(mikuni)is the idle mixture screw..the screw at the bottom of photo,between the 2 holes!. Mustang suggests 2 -21/2 turns out. Get them all the same,then synchronize carbs using a Morgan carbtune.
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7600.msg52526.html#msg52526
only if you have smaller than #40 pilot jet
for a #40 and especially a #42 I'd stick with 1 1/2 turns or even better use an O2 gauge to set them .
Kiehins on the other hand like to be at 2 turns at least on the mixture screw .
Steamers like mikunis that are left stock . :thumbsup
Quote from: t4tiger on February 11, 2015, 09:44:46 AM
Hi Gav, This is so helpful, thank you very much. I will replace needle floats and float bowl gaskets. I think I have it but just a couple of things I'm still not sure about. Hope you can help. If I have it right when I put it all back together:
The main jet should be hand tight after cleaning?
The pilot jet should be backed off so many turns (I intend to take them out, ensure they are clean and then put them exactly the same)
Once the carbs are back in do I sync them using carb tune type thing and then adjust the air/fuel using the appropriate screw or the other way round? Is there only one screw to adjust both air and fuel? Do I do this by ear for all three carbs until it sounds sweet?
Is there anything I have missed?
The main and pilot jets, which are inside the carb should be screwed in tight, it's the pilot air screw that needs to be screwed out approx 2 & 1/2 turns. This is similar to the Mikuni pic posted by 3pot, and is accessible from outside the carb.
You can see it here as item 10
http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_motorcycle_parts_locator.php?block_01=&block_02=100058916-1-2&block_03=23773 (http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_motorcycle_parts_locator.php?block_01=&block_02=100058916-1-2&block_03=23773)
I didn't really do much tuning of them, as I found that Mustangs suggested jet sizes and setting gave me pretty good running. I seem to remember turning the pilot air screw out about another 1/8th turn just to improve things a bit at small throttle openings.
I never messed with the sync, as they all come out bolted together and in theory you don't need to reset it. Might be a good idea to check it after if you have a morgan tune to hand.
Hope this helps, sorry I can't offer more info. Mustang may do later.
Incidently, my jets were 38/98 as stock, but I went to 40/105 as suggested by mustang primarily because I slung the rotten exhausts and fitted Motad Venoms.
Many thanks everyone. I will let you know how it goes....if I manage to get the carbs back on afterwards :icon_frown:
Hi again, spent the day fighting carbs and success, I think. Found a lot of grit and fuel gunge in one of the float bowls. The other two seemed fine. Checked the fuel line filter and I think it had been put in wrong, allowing grit in. When I first put carbs back on, with the help of lots of silicone spray, the engine just jumped straight to 5000 revs and rising. No control so switched off. Tried it again and no better. Took carbs back off and on again. No idea what I did but worked ok. Presently all seems ok. Will take for a spin tomorrow. Oh, replaced throttle cable whilst in there. As much as I love the bike when it is running, it really is awful to work on. Many thanks for all help.
£30 for throttle cable :icon_cry:
Welcome to steamerville :icon_rolleyes:
If its just the inner thats gone then some bike shops will make up another for about 5-8 quid, mine broke at the ridiculous plastic adjuster, but I was lucky and got a set of 'new, old stock' choke and throttle cables for 14 quid on fleabay.
If you haven't had the petcock off to drain tank gunge (it got into your carbs from somewhere :nod) I suggest you do it as soon as you can. Personally I'm in the "junk the tank strainers and the in hose filter and fit an external clear case filter" camp. Removing carbs at the roadside in the rain is only for a certain French Marquis to enjoy :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on February 21, 2015, 10:10:33 PM
Removing carbs at the roadside in the rain is only for a certain French Marquis to enjoy
:icon_scratch:
Really its only carbs and airfilter which is a pain to remove and work on. Generally the rest isn't too bad :icon_wink:
Marquis de sade right? Just seems crazy to have to take carbs off to install adjust throttle cable. That said, I was so dreading fighting the carbs that when they went back on I was ecstatic. Little things...... I've read a few things on hereabout petcock issues and am loath to remove it and then have trouble with leaks. Would just emptying the tank and giving a good rinse work? The other thing I noticed was the fuel mixture screws were out 4 turns. Changed them to 2.5 as per mustangs advice. Will see if that changes anything when I ride him. Thanks for the continuing education and feedback. Really appreciated
take the tank off the bike . but only after there is only a gallon or so left in it .
shake it up good to get the sediment floating in the fuel
set tank down on front end so petcock end is at top
remove petcock
pour the fuel out the petcock opening into a suitable container (read this as big ass pan)
most or all of the crud should come out
if not repeat as necessary
Just read above from mustang 're tank. Sorted. :notworthy
And I need one of those 90 degree screwdrivers to alter mixture. Any alternative to expensive carbtune model?
You might get away with a good slunge out but the nylon strainers are well known to collapse and restrict flow when riding at constant higher speeds. They return to normal when the load is off, so when you check they look normal.
The issue is normally the screws holding the petcock to the tank which you will probably know from your reading. I'd you are careful and not tempted to over tightening when putting them back you should be OK. You'll know by the feel as you take them out if there's going to be an issue, good soaking with Lusol won't do any harm.
Hi sin,
Done tank and seems to be fine. Are you suggesting I cut the nylon filters off and put an in line filter on? If so, any pref for make and positioning?
Went for a ride and seems ok but still got small back fire at idle and when coming off throttle. Which way do I need to turn mixture screws to address this? Also, slight hesitation when accelerating then picks up smoothly. This had been solved with mustangs jet upgrade but is now back. Is this down to mixture too?
Make sure there are no air leaks at the carb rubbers, and the airbox drain tube is plugged,
Quote from: JayDub on February 22, 2015, 06:31:36 PM
Make sure there are no air leaks at the carb rubbers, and the airbox drain tube is plugged,
That is plug the end of the hose, you need somewhere for water to collect.
Yes, I've cut mine off long ago and fitted a K&N sintered filter just under the tap. I'll find a part number for you if you want to go that way, it's probably in a old thread somewhere.
This is the K&N filter, i fitted one to mine.
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,10288.msg102783.html#msg102783
Quote from: t4tiger on February 22, 2015, 09:43:03 AM
And I need one of those 90 degree screwdrivers to alter mixture. Any alternative to expensive carbtune model?
Its possible to improvise, with a steel bar, some bits from the socket draw and a £3.99 Lidl angle attachment I did this...
QuoteAnd I need one of those 90 degree screwdrivers to alter mixture. Any alternative to expensive carbtune model?
the one offered by motion pro works on the 2 right hand carbs, but hits the top of the alternator and won't work on the far left #1. i use a very short cutoff common with a piece of semi-rigid tubing over it for the left.
I initially bought the £15 bendy spring one but the drive broke away during the second use, I suspect that was a one off as plenty of people use them without issue.
Personally I wasn't so happy with the squidgy feel I got so decided on the gear drive item from carbtune as a replacement. Much happier with the feel and have been able to use it on other jobs due to the interchangeable tips.
Three times the price at £45 but it's quality and will probably see me off.
Hi, carbtune tool on order. Still can't solve slight backfire and the revs dropping slightly slowly when I decelerate. But does pull well and feels to be running well at higher revs :icon_lol: I have sprayed the carbs with carb cleaner whilst revving bike and can't detect any vacuum leak. I have replaced airbox breather tube and bunged it.
Anything else I can try? Many thanks
It's mentioned frequently here but in case you've missed it.
1 make sure the airbox assembly is complete and in good condition, no holes or broken bits, including all the bits upstream of the filter I.e. All the way back under the seat.
2 the second intake, usually the right side, should have a rubber cap on it, if it's missing just cover it and secure it with a cable tie.
Quote from: t4tiger on February 28, 2015, 08:33:03 AM
.... and the revs dropping slightly slowly when I decelerate.....
Not played with carbs for a long while, but does that not suggest a sticking throttle slide or cable or damping issue, or a slight air leak between the carb and the cylinder head ie air getting in beyond the butterflies?
Did you balance the carbs? If not, it may be a good idea :nod
BB has a point there. If you have had the carbs apart, an easy mistake is to drop the small O ring in the carb top when putting it back on, one of the easier things to check.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on February 28, 2015, 01:43:45 PM
BB has a point there. If you have had the carbs apart, an easy mistake is to drop the small O ring in the carb top when putting it back on, one of the easier things to check.
Sin,
He's got Keihins hasn't he?
If so there's no small oring in the top of keihins. I found it a bit fiddley sometimes with the keihins to get the rubber vacuum gasket on the top of the slide to seat properly on top of the carb, and keep it in place when screwing the carb top back on.
T4Tiger - have a close look at the carb tops to make sure they are seated down properly, if not you may have air getting in there.
Number 6 which has to sit in the groove of the metal carb body, then number 1 screws down and seals it.
http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_motorcycle_parts_locator.php?block_01=&block_02=100058916-1-2&block_03=23773 (http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_motorcycle_parts_locator.php?block_01=&block_02=100058916-1-2&block_03=23773)
also with the keihins , be very careful and delicate with that diaphram rubber as it can stretch and enlarge and you will never ever get it to go back in the groove to seal :BangHead
slow return to idle ........................try screwing the mixture screws back in a tad . 1 1/2 to 2 turns out
:BangHead :icon_redface:
Don't we just LOVE faffing around with our trusty steeds! :augie
Quote from: nickjtc on February 28, 2015, 05:40:24 PM
Don't we just LOVE faffing around with our trusty steeds! :augie
Trusty??? :icon_scratch:
Quote from: JayDub on February 28, 2015, 07:02:35 PM
Trusty??? :icon_scratch:
I trust that it will do the business as long as I do not b#gger it up! :ImaPoser
Quote from: nickjtc on February 28, 2015, 07:30:41 PM
I trust that it will do the business as long as I do not b#gger it up! :ImaPoser
I heard of a tiger doing 200,000 km on a 3 year round the world trip... without a breakdown!... so I still have faith :icon_wink: (and breakdown cover)
Quote from: JayDub on February 28, 2015, 08:31:25 PM
I heard of a tiger doing 200,000 km on a 3 year round the world trip... without a breakdown!... so I still have faith :icon_wink: (and breakdown cover)
Try posting this on www.adventurebikerider.com and see what comments you may get? Gs obsession springs to mind!
Even though my steamer has done about 55k miles,and is now 17yrs young,I honestly believe it could handle a trip like that? :icon_wink:
Hi,
I've turned in the pilot screws to just below 2 and the revs are dropping quickly now so thanks Mustang :notworthy. Still got the backfire. It will have to wait for me to strip it down again. Sick of it at the mo. I'll report back in due course. Many thanks for all the various input.
by backfire , do you mean popping of the exhaust on the overrun when you shut the throttle down ?
if so it is generally caused by an air leak in the exhaust pipe system , a leaking joint at connection points .
otherwise a backfire can be caused by anything :
a bad coil , water in the gas , bad sparkplug ,
intake valve going tight .
needle valve flooding the carb/carbs,
dirty air filter
bad plug wires and on and on .............................
Quote from: Mustang on March 11, 2015, 08:11:24 PM
by backfire , do you mean popping of the exhaust on the overrun when you shut the throttle down ?
if so it is generally caused by an air leak in the exhaust pipe system , a leaking joint at connection points .
otherwise a backfire can be caused by anything :
a bad coil , water in the gas , bad sparkplug ,
intake valve going tight .
needle valve flooding the carb/carbs,
dirty air filter
bad plug wires and on and on .............................
AND silencers which have been messed about with by the PO :icon_evil:
HEY MUSTANG... does turning the fuel/air mix screws IN make for a richer mix or leaner? (Mikuni's)
I'll try and get a video of it and post in due course...
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/t4tiger1/library/
Hi,
New coils, air filter and sparkplugs fitted. Just putting back together and will see if this works. Hopefully I have added link to pics of old spark plugs. There are differences. Can anyone interpret them for me please??
(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah146/t4tiger1/DSCF6119_zpsbqaq2wbz.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/t4tiger1/media/DSCF6119_zpsbqaq2wbz.jpg.html)
One on the right is good, middle one might have been suffering pre - ignition, left has been running rich.
how many miles on those plugs ?
the left while being on the verge of too rich actually has a nice brown color to it . just a bit much though the other two look too lean to me
#3 is not too far from being spot on
so I tend to agree with the (http://www.emofaces.com/png/200/emoticons/scotsman.png)
I can't remember when I changed them, less than 10000. So....what do I need to do to get them all spot on? Also, having changed the plugs , the backfire is still there and when I left the bike to run for a while the revs started to climb to about 2500 and then came down again. After a few minutes it would do it again...and then nothing for several minutes and then repeat. Any ideas? Is it haunted.... Arghhhh
how are the carb rubber manifolds ?...........air leak between engine and carbs can do that
All a few months old. Feeling like a visit to the dealer :icon_frown:
I had a brand new rubber carb/head manifold split on me after only a couple of carb in/out's. I hadn't overtightened the clamps or anything, it just went on me. Have a check.
:ImaPoser :ImaPoser :ImaPoser you have far too much free time on your hands.
:iagree with Gav, the carb rubbers can be damaged by enthusiastic or frustrated man handling and a crack will be difficult to spot. One way to identify a leak is to smear vaseline over suspect areas which will get sucked in. It's also useful stuff when assembling :augie
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 28, 2015, 12:14:11 AM
smear vaseline over suspect areas which will get sucked in. It's also useful stuff when assembling :augie
is that Scottish slang for something I don't even want to ask about :ImaPoser
I believe he is talking about piece work
We're deviating a little from the topic at hand, but KY is the lubricant of choice. :icon_wink:
Ok. So I'm going to strip right right back down, dismantle carbs and reassemble. Make sure everything is in place properly. When I've done that which way do I need to turn mixture screws to sort the plugs?? Thanks
If the rubbers are suspect won't the old squirt of carb cleaner around them when the engine's running work? If it sucks carb cleaner in you'll soon know.... :icon_lol:
Quote from: t4tiger on March 28, 2015, 08:19:30 AM
Ok. So I'm going to strip right right back down, dismantle carbs and reassemble. Make sure everything is in place properly. When I've done that which way do I need to turn mixture screws to sort the plugs?? Thanks
If the screw is on the front or engine side of the carb out is richer in is leaner
(steamers)if the screw is on the air box side of the carb out is leaner and in is richer.
keep in mind that to read the plugs correctly is not as easy as this
for example if you wanted to check you carbs settings for wide open throttle you would need to run the bike down the road at full throttle than clutch in and kill engine at same time and pull the plugs at this point without the engine running any more to get an accurate picture of the plug color at WOT
same applies to idle circuit , and midrange
it's not that easy without a dyno................
also bear in mind that the mixture screws only control idle air circuit and the pilot jets control the amount of fuel at idle and slightly above idle .
1/4 to 1/2 throttle is controlled by the size of slide cutaway and needle height settings (the main jet has a small influence on this also .)
and pretty much from 1/2 throttle to wide open throttle the mixture is controlled by the main jet .
and taking to dealer (or someone well versed in steamers) may well be the correct answer as it is nearly impossible to diagnose carb problems without being there "live"
:iagree plug cuts on bikes are just not practical as the man says, clean and clear carbs first (don't forget to have a look at the float heights), air intake leaks second and adjustments last.
BB is right, what I suggested was just one of many variations I've tried or come across, I've even heard of people putting the intake system under low pressure air and spraying soapy water around. I've no idea how that worked out and wouldn't really recommend it :kboom
Glad you got things off the slippery slope we were on Mustang :icon_redface:
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 28, 2015, 03:01:15 PM
I've even heard of people putting the intake system under low pressure air and spraying soapy water around. I've no idea how that worked out and wouldn't really recommend it
But at least everything would be nice and clean! :icon_lol:
This whole debacle over carb set up and travails makes me think more and more that I'll just leave things as they are on my bike, horrible fuel consumption and all, rather than faff around trying to put it back to stock.
Thanks fellows. Mustang, I had no idea about all the differences you described :notworthy. Off to the dealer it is. I'll report back on what they find...if anything. It will be a while as I will have to save up the pennies. http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/t4tiger1/library/Tiger ...ahhh, the good old days.
You'll appreciate it/her/him all the more once it/she/he is back in fine fettle. :icon_lol:
Noticed Sin had mentioned Motocarb in Liverpool :iagree
www.motocarb.com 0151-924-5838 and a quite good basic website that gives you an idea on whats what if you dont already know
M
:iagree
Well, finally got it to the dealer. They said that half the valves needed re shimming and that the carbs needed balancing. The difference is pretty impressive, a lot smoother and pulls throughout the range. Still got a very occasional backfire whilst idling but idles well, and needs more throttle to pull away than it used to so not perfect. I'm going to put a can of sea foam in and run a few tanks worth of fuel before I decide what else to do. Do you think that this minor issue at the bottom end could be easily rectified? The dealer says take it back if necessary but I'd like to have an idea of what to suggest to them. I know it may sound like I'm being really picky but having had it from new I know just how good it can be.
And I must say I was really impressed with the dealer, A1 Moto in York. There first stance was to suggest what I could do myself to resolve issues, talking me through possibilities and inviting me to keep calling for advice. When I decided to get it in to them they talked through what they planned to do and how much it would cost so that I was in control of how much work/money would be involved. Got it back washed and polished. And they gave me a Speedmaster to use whilst my Tiger was in. Fun and a lovely sounding engine but not my kettle of fish.
Quote from: t4tiger on May 02, 2015, 01:39:37 PM
And I must say I was really impressed with the dealer, A1 Moto in York.
We don't hear the praises of dealers very often, so three cheers for them!
A1 Moto are my local dealers. Friendly dealers, unlike many, especially as dealers in York are thin on the ground these days.
Hi guys,
Reading this thread is making me realise just how much skill is required to balance these carbs.
I've got a situation where mine where good until I sorted the floats out, changed the o rings and assembled them. Now the bike just won't idle and powers down so much it just cuts out.
I'll try out your great advice with the basics and do what I can to sort it my self as I'm really tight for money currently but it may well be a case where I'd have to give in and let a professional sort this.
:icon_study:
Im sure,with the help from this forum,you can sort it! No need to seek so called 'professional' input! I bought my steamer as a non runner. Bike would stall after 5 mins running. Turned out to be a blocked carb inlet filter!!! Bike has ran faultlessly since. Keep plugging away..lot of knowledge on this site :thumbsup
Balancing carbs is not difficult. Get yourself a Morgan Carb tuner. Just ask how to use :icon_smile:
Quote from: Danwarb on May 16, 2015, 12:55:52 AM
I'll try out your great advice with the basics and do what I can to sort it my self as I'm really tight for money currently but it may well be a case where I'd have to give in and let a professional sort this.
:icon_study:
I appreciate you might not have a great deal of funds free for this at the moment but I'd strongly recommend the Morgan Carbtune as TP says :iagree don't waste your money on anything cheaper and consider this:-
a) They're not usually much cheaper, can be difficult to read, guage ones are more sensitive to inadvertant mishandling and generally they won't last as long as a quality manometer such as the Morgan.
b) A trip to a workshop will almost ceratainly end up costing you more than the cost of the kit and at the end of the day you'll still have the kit.
We've gotten you this far, we're not going to leave you hanging out in the breeze :augie
Completely agree that the advice and support from you guys is brilliant and invaluable. For me it's a balance of time, patience and confidence. It's the latter two that I struggle with. That said, I've quite enjoyed the trials and tribulations of working through the various ideas and do feel more confident than I did just a few months ago.
To bring the story of my bike up to date, I have now done lots of testing with different mixture screw settings and am pleased with the results... It feels good again and I am enjoying riding it. However, the perfectionist in me knows there is still a slight backfire and the Speedo needle fluctuates at idle. From my reading I realised that if the mixture screw is in tight the bike should stall. It does for middle and left cylinder but not the right. I think this suggests that I still have an air leak. The method of spraying the carbs with carb cleaner to see if anything is being sucked in showed nothing so I am assuming that there is something still not quite right inside the carb itself. Not Enoch to want to strip it down again but something for the future.... Just gonna ride and enjoy for now. Regards H
Quote from: t4tiger on May 16, 2015, 01:42:46 PM
To bring the story of my bike up to date, I have now done lots of testing with different mixture screw settings and am pleased with the results... It feels good again and I am enjoying riding it. However, the perfectionist in me knows there is still a slight backfire and the Speedo needle fluctuates at idle. From my reading I realised that if the mixture screw is in tight the bike should stall. It does for middle and left cylinder but not the right. I think this suggests that I still have an air leak. The method of spraying the carbs with carb cleaner to see if anything is being sucked in showed nothing so I am assuming that there is something still not quite right inside the carb itself. Not Enoch to want to strip it down again but something for the future.... Just gonna ride and enjoy for now. Regards H
have you changed the orings on the mixture screw and out the ringsand washer back in the correct order?
Hi ram, no, I haven't touched them. I'll be looking next time I strip itp down.....and there will be a next time :icon_wink:
Quote from: ram33 on May 16, 2015, 05:00:43 PM
have you changed the orings on the mixture screw and out the ringsand washer back in the correct order?
:iagree Good point. Just because you haven't touched them doesn't guarantee they are assembled correctly or in good order. The Fiche diag suggests an incorrect order. I'll try to find a pic.
Quote from: t4tiger on May 16, 2015, 05:13:08 PM
Hi ram, no, I haven't touched them. I'll be looking next time I strip itp down.....and there will be a next time :icon_wink:
sometimes the orings leak air after a few years even though they look good
Quote from: threepot on May 16, 2015, 02:46:09 AM
Get yourself a Morgan Carb tuner. Just ask how to use :icon_smile:
+3. Yes, cost involved, but it pays for itself the first time you use it.
Hey guys, Hi T4,
In my case it turned out to be the jubilee clips not clamping down on the rubbers efficiently so air was getting it. It's sorted now how ever . . .
As you T4 if I rev quickly from Idle there is a pause, a splutter THEN the revs kick in.
Did you have the same?
is this possible because of blocked jets (Inrecently cleaned my carbs) or is it simply how these carbs react with such sudden revving from 1500rpm upwards?
Quote from: Danwarb on May 20, 2015, 04:31:07 PM
or is it simply how these carbs react with such sudden revving from 1500rpm upwards?
ding ding ding .........................they all do that
Hi Mustang, Hi guys,
I'm interested to ensure I'm getting the best set up I can on my carbs to get the best response and power.
In this article he speaks of the modifications that can can applied to speed up the physics of the diaphragm and thus the slides lifting when the the throttle is opened.
This includes drilling the side holes on each slider to just over 3mm and cutting two turns off each of the slider springs.
Have any if you tried these more minor modifications and had them succeed?
Cheers,
Dan
:icon_study:
Quote from: Danwarb on May 21, 2015, 02:03:36 PM
Have any if you tried these more minor modifications and had them succeed?
Speaking from personal experience with Stanley. The PO decided that a) he wanted people to be able to hear his bike and b) he wanted to increase its 'peppy-ness'. So he drilled holes in the end of the mufflers, installed a Dynojet kit (and did the internal carb mods), removed the snorkel cap on the airbox and replaced the air filter with a K&N.
He admitted to me the day I bought the bike that all of this made very little perceptual difference to performance of the bike. He also commented that the fuel consumption increased noticeably. Having owned it for 18 months now and having put about 10,000km under its wheels I cannot comment as to its 'as stock performance', but can comment that although I like the 'sound' I do not like the 'noise', and I definitely do not like the horrible fuel consumption figures I am getting. And for my riding requirements any 'improvements' in performance are moot because, being a ghof, I am not interested in bouncing the engine off the (metaphorical) rev-limiter every time I ride.
In short: as soon as I can I am putting the fuel and exhaust system back to stock.
Quote from: Danwarb on May 21, 2015, 02:03:36 PM
Hi Mustang, Hi guys,
I'm interested to ensure I'm getting the best set up I can on my carbs to get the best response and power.
In this article he speaks of the modifications that can can applied to speed up the physics of the diaphragm and thus the slides lifting when the the throttle is opened.
This includes drilling the side holes on each slider to just over 3mm and cutting two turns off each of the slider springs.
Have any if you tried these more minor modifications and had them succeed?
Cheers,
Dan
:icon_study:
I doubt that anything that minor would give any significant increase in anything but your frustration, I think you could be opening a can of worms Dan, I've noticed that whenever you alter something in the fuel/air/zorst system, it usually has an adverse affect on some aspect of the running of the bike, (especially with steamers) - if it ain't broke.... there's a few on here who have had to spend time and cash on returning theirs to standard to cure running problems that a PO has caused - me included, and its still not right :icon_evil:
Quote from: Danwarb on May 21, 2015, 02:03:36 PM
Hi Mustang, Hi guys,
I'm interested to ensure I'm getting the best set up I can on my carbs to get the best response and power.
In this article he speaks of the modifications that can can applied to speed up the physics of the diaphragm and thus the slides lifting when the the throttle is opened.
This includes drilling the side holes on each slider to just over 3mm and cutting two turns off each of the slider springs.
Have any if you tried these more minor modifications and had them succeed?
Cheers,
Dan
:icon_study:
you
will be sorry
the steamers run best when left at the way triumph designed them .........................
:iagree
Leave it be ............. ride it
Go there and buy a big mixed bag of regret, disappointment, and frustration, not too mention the large dent in your bank account, then you go into overdraft trying to get it back to what was a perfectly good machine and most likely end up selling it and swearing off T400's for a long time.
Tell you what, send me £300 for a set of modified slides, with matching needles and jets and some really offensive end cans that sound great but do sod all as far as performance goes. When you get tired of trying to get something that you enjoy riding every day, send me the parts back and I'll refund you £100. It'll be the safest £200 I'll ever bet :pimp
Alternatively, pack your bags, put £200 in your pocket for petrol and If you don't come back very tired, happy in a way that will have the drugs squad giving you a second look and several sports bike riders wondering if they should have bought a old big trailie instead, I will send you that load of comerativ scrap for free to use as a small boat anchor.
↑ ↑ You can't argue with that can you Dan? ↑ ↑ :icon_eek:
Quote from: JayDub on May 21, 2015, 08:36:58 PM
↑ ↑ You can't argue with that can you Dan? ↑ ↑ :icon_eek:
Here, here :icon_wink:
Brilliant replies guys. I've laughed out loud reading some of your posts !!
I'm going to run some sea foam through her and just check I've got the airboxes well sealed to each other and I reckon I'm there !
Next is to replace the rusting bolts, re-spray the engine covers and eventually her fairing with tank.
I'm also tempted to get the rims powder coated in black if I can't get the rust sorted on them.
I heard of this product:
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=281475383001&category=179753&pm=1&ds=0&t=1432250413756
The guy says he sprays it all over his old BMW's twice a year and it keeps them looking mint. It's true. I saw his bike and it looked beautifully aged with the aluminium all darkened to a deep gunmetal and not one bit of rust on its bolts. He said this stuff begins to actually reverse the rusting !!
A can coming my way soon !! :thumbsup
Next time buy the combo liquid with hand pump spray, a lot cheaper!
Save the Sporran jokes, I am one of these people that actually shops looking at the kg's/£ labels :icon_rolleyes: