'96 Steamer questions

[garrett]

I went back to the shop several hours later and it started, but was pretty rough until it ran a few minutes.  Hard to tell if it's 100%, but once I get the plastic on and run it a bit I will know more.  

Sure is quiet now with those stock pipes!  Ahhhh.  Now I won't annoy the locals in my uppity quiet town.  haha.  

Though I did see a fellow Steamer owner roll through on route 50 heading west a few weeks ago.

PS:  I've hit the kill switch at a stop sign by accident.  Almost as bad a dropping the bike in my yard.

[garrett]

So she is up and running now.  Seems to run pretty nice.  I even got a local here in a 7 series to try and race me along route 50.  What the......  I was just trying the bike out with the new setup and I guess he thought I wanted "to go".  

But it's smooth and no apparent flat spots like Mr. Meanie Pants from Maine was suggesting.  I didn't think the Mikunis had flat spots.  Just some very slight stumbling at low RPMs when starting out.  No biggie.  

The dirt tires make a little noise, but nothing like the D&D cans did.  

Maybe the loudness made the bike appear to be faster/quicker, but I do prefer the quieter bike.  

Put about 60 miles on the bike today......all seems well.  For now.  :)

[Mudhen]

But it's smooth and no apparent flat spots like Mr. Meanie Pants from Maine was suggesting.  I didn't think the Mikunis had flat spots.  Just some very slight stumbling at low RPMs when starting out.  No biggie.  

The dirt tires make a little noise, but nothing like the D&D cans did.  

 :lol:

My bike had a huge flat spot when I got it.  I rejetted, removed the blanking cap on the airbox, and got some loud cans...

Awesome that you got 'er running good.  Now get out there and get us some pics...

[garrett]

Just a few items to tidy up yet before pix.  Need to install the MSA screen with a little creativity and I'm good.  I've also go a set of PIAAs that are just sitting here dying to go on too that I took off one of our trucks.  

Then maybe a set of Ortlieb bags.  Hmmmm.  I did mount a small Pelican on the back though.  

Are you running stock jets?  With those stock cans I feel like I am riding a Vespa compared to the D&Ds.  

Still getting use to the dirt tires as they don't dig the heavy braking as much.  haha

[Mustang]

I've also go a set of PIAAs that are just sitting here dying to go on too that I took off one of our trucks.  

just remember you only have a little less than 400 watts to play with from the alt.
The headlights alone are drawing 110

[CoolHandLuke]

Just a few items to tidy up yet before pix.  Need to install the MSA screen with a little creativity and I'm good.  I've also go a set of PIAAs that are just sitting here dying to go on too that I took off one of our trucks.  

You should be fine with 35+35W PIAA bulbs, but anything higher and you can kiss goodbye to things like heated grips.

Electrical usage on a typical steamer:

H4 front headlights 55+55W (50+50W dipped)
B9S sidelights (20+20W)
Indicators (20+20W) (theoretically, you could have all four on).
Rear lights (5+5W)
Brake lights (21+21W)
Clocks illumination (9x5 = 45W)
Idiot lights (6x5 = 30W)

Ideally, the electrical system should be able to handle everything being on that could possibly be on + extras.

Theoretical max consumption:
210W  : When hitting the pass button, it keeps the dipped beam on whilst lighting full beam.
40W    : Side lights.
45W    : Dash illumination.
30W    : All idiot lights on.
80W    : Indicators on hazard.
10W    : Rear lights.
42W    : Brake lights.

457W   : Total theoretical usage.

The alternator only puts out 360W.

I would budget for the following usage:
110W    : Full beam on
40W      : Side lights
45W      : Dash illumination
25W      : Idiot lights
10W      : Rear lights
42W      : Brake lights
40W      : Indictors

312W     : Total, giving you only 48W to play with.


You can save 40 watts by changing the dash illumination from filament bulbs to LEDs.

You can save 30W by changing the side lights to 5 watts (or a little more if you use LEDs).

You can change the indicators, and rear light bulbs, saving more power, but the saving varies depending on the quality of the bulbs used.

[Mudhen]

You budget brake light and indicator lights?  If you dip below the line for the few seconds those are on, the alternator/battery doesn't recover?

Thanks for posting those numbers - that's awesome.  I need to look at what I'm really running at with my heated gear on...

Pat

[CoolHandLuke]

You budget brake light and indicator lights?  If you dip below the line for the few seconds those are on, the alternator/battery doesn't recover?

If you use more power than your alternator can put out then the battery will make up the difference until the battery runs flat,  Even running close to the 360W may cause the battery not to charge or not charge efficiently.  There is a 30A fuse in line with the alternator, so you shouldn't damage the alternator, but I can't say that for certain.

[MtheTiger]

You can save 40 watts by changing the dash illumination from filament bulbs to LEDs.

You can save 30W by changing the side lights to 5 watts (or a little more if you use LEDs).

You can change the indicators, and rear light bulbs, saving more power, but the saving varies depending on the quality of the bulbs used.

Quite right.
The only bulbs I have left on my steamer are the headlights and the fuel sensor light. All others are replaced by LEDS.

See my post:
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7842

[garrett]

I like recycling threads, so with that I've got a question about the headlights on these bikes.  

These are single element bulbs in each correct?  Because with my low beam on (both lights are lit) and I hit the high beam I get no change.  I do hear the relay.  Everything worked when I first got the bike as it passed inspection, but I forget how the lights were set up.  I never changed anything, so I'm not sure what changed.

Do I just have a bad relay?  I see that there are two under the lights.  Or is this the work of British electronics and my years of Land Rover ownership coming to haunt me.  

Not long ago another gremlin started.  The neutral light does not work and the stand has to be up to start as it won't do so in neutral now.  That's secondary to the headlight issue as inspection time is coming up.  

Thank you,

[Colonel Nikolai]

These are single element bulbs in each correct?  Because with my low beam on (both lights are lit) and I hit the high beam I get no change.  I do hear the relay.

Each headlight should have a dual-filament bulb. There are two relays for the headlights mounted between them under the fairing.

If they are broke: They are Hellas. I tried substituting another brand with the same spec, don't try it. Buy the Hellas that are the same as the ones on your bike.

[garrett]

I would have thought so, but mine are single element.  Interesting.  

Good to know about the Hella's.  Those are not always common at part stores, so I'll make sure I still with OEM.  

Thanks,