Front rotors, seized pistons, worn bushings

[97tiger885]

The front rotors on the '97 are done.  What is the consensus on replacements...EBC?  Is the serial number used to distinguish rotors the engine number or related to the VIN number?  I have the VIN number.  Where is the engine number located?


How do I remove a seized piston?



Are these things cheaply available?  I didn't see an item labeled "piston" at BikeBandit.com.


I have a lot of wiggle in the rear end.  The problem is with the front bolt on the rear brake strut.  The strut mounts to the right side swing arm.



I can't tell if the 8M bushing's OD has worn down or if the hole on the swing arm that the bushing goes thru has worn to a larger size.  I suspect the latter.  What is the proper way to fix a slot for a bushing which has worn?

[Mustang]

the stuck piston can generaly be pushed out using compressed air blown thru the fitting

you will have to put the other piston back in and hold it in place while blowing air into the caliper , you might need to take the bleeder out and usr an air hose that has a rubber end to seal against the caliper to get good pressure , it will come out with compressed air .

Bike bandit , they show a kit with pistons but the price list and p/n doesn't just order the seals #5
the piston unless totally fucked will clean up with a scotch brite pad .

I would go with ebc rotors they are far cheaper than the oem ones .

ebc p/n are  front left        MD644LS
                   front right      MD644RS

                   rear              MD645

and then there is these on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250538195901?ss ... 1423.l2649

[Bixxer Bob]

....I have a lot of wiggle in the rear end.  The problem is with the front bolt on the rear brake strut.  The strut mounts to the right side swing arm.



I can't tell if the 8M bushing's OD has worn down or if the hole on the swing arm that the bushing goes thru has worn to a larger size.  I suspect the latter.  What is the proper way to fix a slot for a bushing which has worn?

I'm not familiar with the Steamer back end, and can't make out much form your photo, but the proper way to repair a worn bush, assuming that's the problem, is either:

If it's the internal hole that's worn either replace with new or ream oversize and make an oversize bolt.

If it's the hole the bush fits into, and there's enough meat left on the part, ream the hole out until it's clean all round then make an oversize bush.  Any machine shop could do that for you, but it'd probably be cheaper to source the parts on Ebay or similar.  Search wider than Tiger as many early Triumphs used the same arrangement.

[97tiger885]

the stuck piston can generaly be pushed out using compressed air blown thru the fitting

you will have to put the other piston back in and hold it in place while blowing air into the caliper , you might need to take the bleeder out and usr an air hose that has a rubber end to seal against the caliper to get good pressure , it will come out with compressed air .

I got the first one out by removing the pads and pumping the brake pedal.  Worked very well for one, but the other one stuck.  I have heard tales of the air compressor method.  I don't have a compressor, but a friend does.  Where exactly does the air hose connect to the caliper...where the banjo bolt is or thru the bleeder?  

Bike bandit , they show a kit with pistons but the price list and p/n doesn't just order the seals #5
the piston unless totally fucked will clean up with a scotch brite pad .

I may have done just that trying to pull the piston out with pliers.  

I would go with ebc rotors they are far cheaper than the oem ones .

ebc p/n are  front left        MD644LS
                   front right      MD644RS

                   rear              MD645

Thanks for the info.  I spent 20 minutes last night getting the engine number.  I looked at the platform it was supposed to be stamped on and swore there was no way a number was there.  But after a bunch of degreaser, lots of lighting and a magnifying glass, I managed to get the number.  

and then there is these on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250538195901?ss ... 1423.l2649

That's a good deal.

If it's the hole the bush fits into, and there's enough meat left on the part, ream the hole out until it's clean all round then make an oversize bush. Any machine shop could do that for you,but it'd probably be cheaper to source the parts on Ebay  

Unfortunately that part would be the swing arm.  I will try to find a local replacement for the bushing. If it is the hole, I will have a shop make an oversize bushing.  What exactly do you mean by reaming...Drilling?  And the goal of that is make sure the hole is properly round and centered?  My drilling skills are not very good, but I don't want to take the swing arm off.  Problems, problems,..., always problems.  Thanks for the advice.

[Bixxer Bob]

A reamer cuts an accurately sized hole where a drill is only as close as the bloke that sharpened it. It can  be bigger or smaller and will be rough while a reamed hole is almost mirror smooth if done right.  A machine shop can ream it for you and press in a new bush without taking the swingarm off the bike.

[Sin_Tiger]

Don't use pliers unless you have soft jaws, or at least put some rubber around it. Blow the air into the fluid connection, banjo. Put a bit of wood between and make sure they come out evenly, control it with a G clamp or vice. Once the pistons are on good metal yo can usually remove them by hand using a twisting action. Go aesy with the air and wear eye protection please.

[97tiger885]

Availability of the EBC replacement rotors MD644 is extremely limited at this time.  EBC has none of the RSs in stock and had two of the LSs.  I hope to have gotten the last two LSs.   As far as I can tell, the only difference between the right and left rotors are the placement of the cooling holes.  Distributors  might have these in stock, but not EBC.  EBC said several weeks before the 644s would be restocked.  

A reamer cuts an accurately sized hole where a drill is only as close as the bloke that sharpened it. It can  be bigger or smaller and will be rough while a reamed hole is almost mirror smooth if done right.  A machine shop can ream it for you and press in a new bush without taking the swingarm off the bike.

Good to know.  I bought a piece of oversized dowel.  I plan to trim it until it fits.  That should give me a good idea of the size of the hole and how true it is.   If it is bad, I will find out if the local shop will fix it in place. If the hole looks good, I will take the measurements to the shop and get a new spacer/bushing made.

Don't use pliers unless you have soft jaws,

Being of the Destroy First, Ask After school,...too late.  I managed to remove both by putting the first piston back in,  blocking it with a screwdriver, bleeding the caliper and pumping the brake lever.  The stuck piston came right out.  Then I pulled the unstuck one out.  A lot of work, but I didn't need to travel to where the compressor is.  I'll run the pistons to a local shop and see what the mechanics have to say about the usability     of the pistons.

[Sin_Tiger]

Actually, you can use a standard foot pump (remember them?) if you have a vice or three hands. In a way it's better as you have more control and feel. So no need to launch your pistons accross the Shell forecourt, unless you hate Shell  :D

[NeilD]

yep I've used a footpump with a cut down airbed adaptor in the past.. I've also treated myself to a sparkly piston removing tool, although not had to use it yet, nice to know its in the amoury just in case..   :D  

the pistons and seals are common to many japanese bikes if the OP gets stuck for bits..

[Bixxer Bob]

yep I've used a footpump with a cut down airbed adaptor in the past.......

Ingenious lot aren't we?  :lol:

[97tiger885]

the pistons and seals are common to many japanese bikes if the OP gets stuck for bits..

That is good to know.  I think I will order from BikeBandit.  That way I can order the brake strut spacer w/o having to feel bad about paying shipping on a US$7 part.