Float assembly orings

[97tiger885]

I hope to remove the carbs next week and replace the float assembly orings.  The reeking of gas is causing brain damage. I have bought the orings (Mcmaster Carr  part numbers  9263K121  and 9263K137).  Which parts am I replacing?  Could someone tell me using the part numbers for the carb schematic from Bikebandit.com? Are they numbers 15 and 20? Do I need to remove the top and bottom of the carbs to replace the orings?


http://www.bikebandit.com/1997-triumph- ... 2sch561438


Another important question...will I need to replace the float bowl gaskets?  If so,  does someone have a part number for Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki or Suzuki that I can use?  I don't want to take these off or apart unless I have the parts to put them back together.

[rybes]

the o rings youve got to replace are on number 19, the float body. theres a smallun and a largeun on it. take them off and swap em with what you got  

[Mustang]

Another important question...will I need to replace the float bowl gaskets?  If so,  does someone have a part number for Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki or Suzuki that I can use?  I don't want to take these off or apart unless I have the parts to put them back together.

the float bowls dont have a gasket so to speak they have a rubber ring that sets into a groove in the float bowl and as long as you don't screw with it you can reuse it

[97tiger885]

I may have libeled my carbs.  I tried to take the 885 out yesterday and after about 100 yards it lost power/bogged down.  I took it home pulled the carbs/air filter and the plugs.

Here are some shots of the air filter (after 27,000 miles):









The spark plugs were ugly...a nice thick coating of gunk on all three.  I replaced those.  I have one plug question.  My other mcs use a screw on adapter on the top of the plugs.  The Tiger did not have this cap.  Is that the way the Tiger spark plug wires are designed?



I am going to replace the air filter and see if that cures my "carb" problem.

[Mustang]

yep the wires are made to fit over the threaded post on the plug , they do not use a screw on pc

it's pretty easy right now to replace the orings on the float assemblies while you already have the carbs off , murphys law says " if you don't do it now you will have to go thru the aggravation of pulling them off again "

[97tiger885]

yep the wires are made to fit over the threaded post on the plug , they do not use a screw on pc

it's pretty easy right now to replace the orings on the float assemblies while you already have the carbs off , murphys law says " if you don't do it now you will have to go thru the aggravation of pulling them off again "

I thought about that.  But I need to replace all of the rubber conectors for the airbox and the carbs in the next year or so.  I don't want to wait for an order from BikeBandit.  I will tear it off again in the fall when I have those bits and replace the o-rings at that time.  

I tried to put the carbs back on yesterday and failed.   I think I was doing it in the wrong order.  I tried to put the air box on the carbs first.  Is that a mistake?  Should  I mount the carbs first and then put the airbox on the carbs?  This is complicated by one of the airbox/carb connectors which is deformed.  I am mounting that connector on the carb first and then pushing it into the airbox.  Advice greatly appreciated.

[Mustang]

wd 40 the piss out of the rubbers

1 .the airbox goes in the frame first
2. push it as far back as you can aand hold it there if possible
3. insert the carb bank from the right side
4. push the carbs into the rubber boots on the intake side tighten all three   band clamps while keeping the carbs fully inserted into the intake rubbers

5. now pull the air box forward onto the carbs
6. keep the carbs lifted slightly on the rear of them makes the boots from the air box go on easier

7. while holding the airbox and carbs mated together start tightening band clamps on the air box side work from left to right or right to left doesnt matter just make sure the boot is on the carb before you tighten the band clamp
there is a little wiggle room but not much

it gets easier the more you do it  :shock:

[BruKen]

No it doesn't. It's always a pain in the bum. However the sense of accomplishment when you finally succeed exceeds that of an Olympic 100 m gold winner. And you will win......... eventually. Maybe. Being OCD helps.  So does the WD40.

[rf9rider]

Its even worse with new rubbers and a new airbox fitted  :lol:

If your bike is on the centre stand, just watch you don`t push it off, nearly dropped mine off the stand last time i did it, i now do it with the front wheel tight against the workbench.

[97tiger885]

wd 40 the piss out of the rubbers

1 .the airbox goes in the frame first
2. push it as far back as you can aand hold it there if possible
3. insert the carb bank from the right side
4. push the carbs into the rubber boots on the intake side tighten all three   band clamps while keeping the carbs fully inserted into the intake rubbers

5. now pull the air box forward onto the carbs
6. keep the carbs lifted slightly on the rear of them makes the boots from the air box go on easier

7. while holding the airbox and carbs mated together start tightening band clamps on the air box side work from left to right or right to left doesnt matter just make sure the boot is on the carb before you tighten the band clamp
there is a little wiggle room but not much

it gets easier the more you do it  :shock:

This is the way I ended up doing it.  It was a total struggle.  Getting the center boot from the airbox onto the carb took many tries.  Getting the airbox/carb deformed boot to seat into the airbox was even worse.  And getting both at the same time was extremely frustrating.   Seat one, lose the other.  If this were a horse, I would have shot it.  I was hoping that it would be easier with the new carb/airbox boots.  Oh, well.

I did a 30 mile test run and the mc seems ok.  While the tank was off, I took the opportunity to replace the stock petcock with Yamaha 2GU-24500-02.  This was US$33 at the local shop.  The other petcock was US$25.  I paid the extra US$8 because I wanted a reserve.  

Finally, my pre-filter filter has disintegrated.  Anybody have advice for what to replace it with?  The filter foam at the local shops is at least 1" thick.