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Won't start after a long journey

Started by Goodwinsplace, February 06, 2012, 07:43:56 PM

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Bixxer Bob

For VIN 170... and the TOR exhaust you want tune 10121.

TuneECU will tell you what tune is in there already.  Then go as you say.
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

iansoady

Quote from: "Goodwinsplace"Also is it a straight forward fit?

Very easy to remove and refit. I would take the opportunity to change the vacuum pipes as well when you're in there. Make sure you don't lose the little gasket on top of it that seals it against the airbox - this can be dislodged when you take the airbox off.

Tank is easy enough to remove but try to make sure there's not too much petrol in it (a gallon weighs around 10 lb) and make sure you have prepared somewhere to put it down before you lift it off. It's no joke dancing round the garage looking for somewhere big enough to park it - DAMHIK.
Ian.

1931 Sunbeam Model 10
1999 Honda SLR650

Chris Canning

And the long extension you'll need to get too the bottom of the battery box and then the tank.

metalguru

Quote from: "Goodwinsplace"I've already prepped myself around removing the tank and read the step by step on here. Just hope I can get into all the gaps.

Just a quick question:
Quote from: "metalguru"The IACV can be acessed once the airbox is off and a clean of its working faces, with a squirt of silicone lube (not WD40) will bring it back to life, then reset it on pc.
Most of what you posted was clear, I just didn't get the above, squirt the IACV? Then reset it via TuneECU - would this be TPS and ISCV adjustments?


Once the tank and airbox are off you will see a kydney shaped device with a foam like seal on it (dont lose the seal). This is the IACV. The centre of this is a round valve whose working faces are the outer edges, this moves up and down the tube, a bit like a tap, letting the correct amount of air to the engine for idle. The working faces need to be clean, (cotton bud damp with degreaser). Once clean give a squirt of silicon lube for ease of operation. IACV test can then be carried out on pc, along with TPS reset when tune is reloaded etc, the 12 min tune can be carried out but essentially carried out when adaptation occurs by the ecu, when reset is carried out and IACV set.

By the way have you got a dreaded Scottoiler?

If you have an alarm this will need to be in service mode as the battery and battery box will need to be removed, (Torx screw fitting in battery box).
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

Goodwinsplace

Hello, a quick update.
Spent most of the afternoon working on the bike.
12 minute tune - ticked over fine for the full 30 minutes required to get to temp and do the tune.
Ran the bike and it felt a bit better but not right.

Hooked up to TuneECU and looked over the various pages, had error code P0118, checked the oil and it was a little lower than I would like.
It was supposed to have had a full service when I bought it back in October, but I doubt it was as full as required. I know it shouldn't burn that much oil, I've done a few big rides on it.

The program was saying 'No Map' and couldn't get one to display no matter what I tried. I loaded a new map with the TOR exhaust and downloaded it to the bike.

Topped the oil up, cleared the code and taken it for a 10 minute ride. All seems good, no code back, no engine light and no raised revs.
I hope to get it out for a proper test on the weekend if possible, it was a little late by the time we got to this stage.

Welcome any thoughts/comments.
My personal journey on two wheels: MotorbikeTest.info Blog

metalguru

The code is saying that the engine coolant temp is too low.
Judging by the time it took to bring the fan in sounds like the thermostat is history, best to replace the rad cap and coolant whilst there, flushing the system will help remove old coolant. (Thread in the How Toos).
Sounds like the thermostat has been the main fault as the ecu will think the engine is cold and supplying more fuel than needed when hot, so leading to over rich mixture when hot, hence hard to start. The high idle would be coupled with the same.

Sounds like the 'no map', (as long as 'read map' was used) could be the map in the ecu was corrupt and reloading has fixed it. Just need to fine tune the trims. The dud battery can do this, as BB explained very well.

Perhaps it would be a good idea next time you have the laptop connected to the bike is to get some screen shots and post them.
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

Bixxer Bob

As MG thinks, the no map message is confirmation that it's corrupt. hopefully the re-load will have cured it without having to resort to more expensive fixes :lol:

The Sagem is a sensitive beast when it comes to volts. Also, unfasten it and look underneath. The bike undertray is full of holes and water ingress is not uncommon. While you're in there give it a clean and plug some of the undertray holes.
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Goodwinsplace

Hi Guys,

I did grab some screensthots whilst doing the TuneECU elements of my tinkering yesterday.
Take a look here:
http://www.slideshare.net/goodwinsplace ... cu-feb2012

I'm going to leave the bike until the weekend, will do some searches on here and around for tests that I can do on the thermostat and pump. Can't see hardly any spares on eBay, will take a look on the for sale on here if I need to swap it out.
My personal journey on two wheels: MotorbikeTest.info Blog

metalguru

Thanks for the screen shots, these are very helpful.

A couple of questions
How long had the engine been running to get to that temp and was it after you reloaded the map?
If it took ages to reach this temp, ie, about 20 mins then the thermostat is definately shot. The water pump is fine.
There are quite a few options for replacing the stat and cap, and all are down to cost for cross referenced car parts, there are however some guys who have fitted these and had problems, the original Triumph parts are available on-line, long life anti freeze is a good move too although some brands are pink!
If you do replace the stat there is a thread on here of how to, but a good tip when burping the bike is to fill very slowly and if possible have the bike facing uphill slightly, it makes it easier to get the air out of the system.

The TPS needs reset, which is the button TPS reset. Also a how to in the TuneEcu overview.

There are some more trims to adjust but need to get the temp right first, then the ecu may take care of it.
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

Goodwinsplace

How long had the engine been running to get to that temp and was it after you reloaded the map?
This was after the 30+ minute running for the 12 minute tune, off the top of my head I think the first three were before remapping and the last showing the new map downloaded.

If it took ages to reach this temp, ie, about 20 mins then the thermostat is definately shot. The water pump is fine.
There are quite a few options for replacing the stat and cap, and all are down to cost for cross referenced car parts, there are however some guys who have fitted these and had problems, the original Triumph parts are available on-line, long life anti freeze is a good move too although some brands are pink!
If you do replace the stat there is a thread on here of how to, but a good tip when burping the bike is to fill very slowly and if possible have the bike facing uphill slightly, it makes it easier to get the air out of the system.

There is a breaker on ebay that is selling a thermostat for around £20 including postage, not sure on the price new? I would rather go with the standard part than hacking around with a fixer solution.

I will start reading info around the process of changing it over, happy for pink fluid too the bike is a girl after all. :wink:

The TPS needs reset, which is the button TPS reset. Also a how to in the TuneEcu overview.

There are some more trims to adjust but need to get the temp right first, then the ecu may take care of it.

OK, I can reset the TPS, wasn't sure if it needed anything adjusting on the bike prior to resetting.
I will get all this sorted and hook it back up to TuneECU and get another set of screen grabs.

Thanks for all the feedback.
My personal journey on two wheels: MotorbikeTest.info Blog

Goodwinsplace

How long had the engine been running to get to that temp and was it after you reloaded the map?
This was after the 30+ minute running for the 12 minute tune, off the top of my head I think the first three were before remapping and the last showing the new map downloaded.

If it took ages to reach this temp, ie, about 20 mins then the thermostat is definately shot. The water pump is fine.
There are quite a few options for replacing the stat and cap, and all are down to cost for cross referenced car parts, there are however some guys who have fitted these and had problems, the original Triumph parts are available on-line, long life anti freeze is a good move too although some brands are pink!
If you do replace the stat there is a thread on here of how to, but a good tip when burping the bike is to fill very slowly and if possible have the bike facing uphill slightly, it makes it easier to get the air out of the system.

There is a breaker on ebay that is selling a thermostat for around £20 including postage, not sure on the price new? I would rather go with the standard part than hacking around with a fixer solution.

I will start reading info around the process of changing it over, happy for pink fluid too the bike is a girl after all. :wink:

The TPS needs reset, which is the button TPS reset. Also a how to in the TuneEcu overview.

There are some more trims to adjust but need to get the temp right first, then the ecu may take care of it.

OK, I can reset the TPS, wasn't sure if it needed anything adjusting on the bike prior to resetting.
I will get all this sorted and hook it back up to TuneECU and get another set of screen grabs.

Thanks for all the feedback.
My personal journey on two wheels: MotorbikeTest.info Blog

metalguru

Would be wise to buy new stat and rad cap as you already have used ones. Thermostats can be troublesome when secondhand.

Reset tps once new stat is fitted and correct running temp  is obtained.
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

iansoady

The pink antifreeze (organic acid technology) is different to the blue and you shouldn't mix them as it can (apparently) cause clogging of pipework, so if you go that way a thorough flush is required. I've never seen the OAT recommended for Tigers although it is standard on most modern cars.

Any antifreeze gurus around?
Ian.

1931 Sunbeam Model 10
1999 Honda SLR650

HockleyBoy

Use the pink stuff in mine and it dosent seem to make any difference. I think it was first put in at the 12k service by a Triumph dealer and I have carried on using it since.
05 Tiger Lucifer Orange (resting) 07 GSX-R1000TT K7 71 Triumph T25T 17 Tiger 1050 Sport

daveb

goodwinsplace, I bought a thermostat and Rad cap from Fowlers bristol, great service, if you want 2nd hand ones, you can have the ones i took off my  tiger for free  :D

Drop me a line your not too far away from me