Depression has set in!

[Milton]

I don't know how many people remember my saga but this last spring I re-shimmed my 98 Tiger after having some intake valve clearances go to zero. Then I was getting poor gas mileage after doing the Keihin carburetor shim and pilot upgrade (probably related to the valves then carbs)...anyway after less than 3k miles the valves have recessed again and it seems pointless to try shimming them again.

I see that I have several options:

1: Part the bike out.
2: Buy a used non-98 head.
3: Have the head re-built.

The bike has 60k miles but is in otherwise good condition. Option 1 is a no brainer. Option 2 would be to just replace the head hope for the best and ride her until she can't go anymore, and Option 3 is to drop some dollars into the bike and bring her to like new condition; complete engine and frame tear down and rebuild.

Before she gave up the ghost I noticed that shifting between 1st and 2nd was getting rather grinding/chunky. If I preloaded the lever before shifting it would go in fine but if no preloading then it was not shifting well.

How long do the transmissions last on these bikes?
How long do the clutches last?

I do enjoy the bike like no other bike I have owned.

[Mustang]

find a head off of any one of the t309/409 engines bolt it on and don't look back .............

the gearboxes and clutches are pretty damn solid and overbuilt .

are you sure its not just slop in the shift linkage ?

1st to second is clunky on all steamers especially with clapped out shift linkage.

How much you wanna spend to fix it or REPLACE it?

[Milton]

Is any 900 Triple from the 1995-1998 time viable?

There shouldn't be any problems with using my existing cams as long as the journals have the proper clearance with the bearing races should there be?

[Mustang]

any head from the early triples .sprint speed trip daytona etc

get the cams if you can but otherwise you should be able to use yours

you will have to find the right shim sizes for valve clearances

unless you get the cams and shims and buckets as a set with the used head

[Rocinante]

I was in your situation a couple of years back, and went for a used head on ebay. If you are a bit patient, I would recommend getting one with the cams and shims intact.

Ask for existing shim sizes and clearances if you can. That will give a clue of how much life is left. The head I bought was more worn out than the seller said, so be aware of this.

I also considered throwing the rather aged engine out and replace it with a refurbished one from http://www.triumph-ant.co.uk/, but dropped it for several reasons, but mostly for cost(although the replacement engine is not very expensive). The other option, to refurbish the head, will cost you a lot more than replacing it. Go for a used head.

[Milton]

Thanks for the info. I dropped $210 for a 1997 head on ebay yesterday without the shafts (just hope I'm not getting the shaft). There are 3 others for sale:

1998 Thunderbird - $80.96 (With cams, but probably with same issues as mine)
1997 Daytona T595 - $400 (No cams, I thought the T309 switched to the T595 in 1990?)
1995 Daytona - $265 (No cams or buckets.)

Anyhoo, when I get it I will disassemble it to check the guides and plastigauge the journals. I'll keep the forum posted with my progress.

And some more questions.

I am thinking that I will probably have to reseal (hylomar) the liners when I get the head off, is this right?
If the liners have to be resealed then I will probably remove them; replacing the rings would probably be a good thing if the liners and pistons mic within tolerances?
As I am going to disassemble the valve assembles new seals would probably be a good thing too?

[Rocinante]

I am thinking that I will probably have to reseal (hylomar) the liners when I get the head off, is this right?
If the liners have to be resealed then I will probably remove them; replacing the rings would probably be a good thing if the liners and pistons mic within tolerances?

I decided against resealing the liners despite a massive protest from the more experienced crew here. My decision was based on the advise of my regular Triumph mechanic who has changed a large number of cyl. heads through the last 20 years. He claimed he only resealed when he was sure the liners had moved in the removal process. So I slid a sharp edge between the gasket and the head all the way around to separate them and spent a long time carefully removing the head from the gasket, holding the gasket downwards, to avoid pulling on the liners. Some 14 Kkm later all is still well.

However, since you seem (from this thread at least) more technically competent than me in this area, and for the sake of getting new rings, and if time is not a critical factor(I did mine in May in the beginning of the Norwegian riding season), why not do it properly.

[Milton]

Oh joy, rapture my new used head has arrived.


Looking good.


What the hell is this. Why do kids have to take everything apart?
Couldn't they have at least left the buckets in their place!


Notice anything small and shiny at the tip of my finger? Am I using the wrong finger or did I just get the finger?
Lots of finely ground metal all over the head, something certainly let go.
Two buckets are still in place and I haven't yet tried to get them out so I'm not sure if they're scored in there
or not. My guess right now is that they are and they will be a bugger to get out. Into a diesel bath sometime
this week and we shall see if I just blew $210.



And just so nobody can accuse the old girl of being a broken down garage queen here we are last September
getting ready to go up to Salt Creek Pass. My club has what they call the 'Pass Bagger' contest to see how many
Colorado Mountain Passes one can get. I've got about 55 so far but 2 of the people is this picture have over 200.
For each 50 passes collected you get a pin, cool huh?


At Salt Creek Pass.


Poncha Pass, as you can tell by the sign. The ride up from the north is a pretty nice road so
I left most of my friends behind as I was searching for a performance award. When the old girl
runs she runs pretty good!


Looking down into the beginning of the San Luis Valley from Poncha Pass.


Ute Pass.


Elwood Pass.


A flat tire on the GS. See the pretty fall colors. Used one of those mushroom headed no glue plugs. Worked for about
20 miles before it pushed out on a rock (my hypothesis) and we had to use the rope patch with glue. I have seen
the mushroom headed plugs work very well on a road bike but off pavement I think the tire works too much to keep
a plug in. Someone else in the group suggested that the steel belts sawed through the plug, either way...






Stunner Pass.


Home for the night, Alamosa KOA. Nice place with nice facilities.

[rybes]

with pics n scenery like that i bet ya ca´nt wait to get that head bolted on. got me fingers crossed that ya fillins are jus normal wear n tear 

[TripleTragic]

Very nice, Milton. I am currently doing exactly the same(the head, not pass riding) to mine for exactly the same reasons.(also Volcanic Red)
I had everything ready to go on the weekend for a quick swap over only to find head bolts that looked like this when I got it apart.


Good luck with yours.

[Bixxer Bob]

Can't see for sure but they look like filings or saw scrapings.  Maybe the dismantler just had trouble with a bolt or something on the cover and got crap in the head cutting or filing it off.  Hopefully all it needs is a good rinse off.... fingers crossed for you.

[Sin_Tiger]

If it was all packed lose like that when you received it,I doubt he took a lot of care taking it apart, go over it with a fine toothed comb mate. Taken to bits as a money spinner I'd hazard 

Gear pics and story, deserves a thread of it's own really