06 955i Troubles!!!

[drunk_uncle]

I changed my oil and filter along with the radiator cap.

The change the cap, I loosened the tank and only lifted it high enough to reach the cap to avoid messing with fuel lines and such.  I lost quite a bit of coolant.  I refilled the overfill bottle in the fairing.  Is this the only coolant that drained off?  If not how do make sure there are no air pockets in the system?  It seems to run just fine right now.  Idled it in the garage and cycled through the cooling fan a couple times.

Second problem.   I neglected to change crush washer on the pan drain bolt.  It leaked quite a bit, so I drained pan and used a brand new crush washer.  Now it leaks only a drop or two in 24 hours.  Any ideas?

I am going to Dawson and then up the Dempster to Inuvik this summer.  Not comfortable doing that with any oil leak.

[Dutch]

Obviously the contact patch where washer touches oil pan needs to be clean. And bolt needs to be tightend with correct torque. Too little and it doesn't seal well (and maybe run the risk of vibrating loose?), too much and it will crack the pan. Therefor I prefer to use a torque wrench.

Following is just a story that happened to me, taking ideas from it its purely at own risk! I had a bike with a small tear in the pan, most likely due to the drain bolt being tightend too much. It was sealed with some stuff smeared on the outside. After changing the oil I wanted to be carefull with tightening the bolt. Ended up with 1-2 drops of oil under the bike, specially after it had been used (oil warmer = less viscous). Plumbers have a tape they use to seal connections. Used a bit of that tape around the drain bolt, that took care of the last drops.

[iansoady]

I always anneal copper washers as even new ones may have hardened in storage. Heat up to dull red then either quench (good for old ones as it cleans them up) or let cool in air.

A good copper washer should be easy to bend in your fingers (although then of course it isn't much use for sealing.....)

Alternatively a thin smear of Wellseal either side should sort it.

[Bixxer Bob]

Often, aluminium crush washers are used these days. Unlike copper, they CAN NOT be re-used, even if you heat them.  If you have an ally washer, bin it and buy a copper one, then like above, just heat it to red and let it cool and it'll be nice and soft again.

[Bluto]

You probably did only lose the coolant in the reservoir tank and so long as the engine and radiator were not drained you would not have created an air pocket...I'd just keep an eye on the tank level during the first few rides.  FWIW I replaced my own radiator cap recently and used (carefully adjusted) needle nose vice grips to pinch the tube between the reservoir and radiator and lost very little coolant...also used a cap I bought from a Subaru dealer and it is working fine  http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,12447.0.html

[drunk_uncle]

I am going to drain it, clean the threads thoroughly and try some high temp thread sealant.  I thought about Teflon plumbers tape, but worry about it melting.  There is two welding lines near the drain plug like the threads were cut out and replaced.  Is this on all Tigers?

[Bluto]

If you do want to try teflon tape get the yellow stuff that is fuel and oil resistant

[gatorwesty]

I overtightened the bolt on mine and then had drips. A closer inspection revealed that I had cracked the pan near the bolt. I was able to find another pan on ebay, but what a hassle removing the old one. I hope you didnt crack the pan overtightening the bolt. Look very carefully where the oil drip is forming from.

good luck.

[iansoady]

If it is cracked this might work: http://www.laco.com/prod/47/oyltite-stik.aspx - on the other hand it might not......