1st New Owner Q's - Suspension & Clutch

[Roadinator]

I will be riding two up on my "new" to me Tiger.  We are about 300 lbs for both riders w/o gear.  Bike has 50k on it and the suspension is a little soft (I think, but what do I know, never had one before).  I see a rear shock adjustment of pre-load and rebound.  I took the pre-load in one turn, but have no idea how to read the number since it is in the box below.  Do you guys use a small mirror and flash light to read the pre-load number?  If I am going for a five on pre-load do I just screw it in all the way until it won't go anymore (meaning five is the max setting).  Is the five and five a good setting pre-load and rebound for two up riding?

For rebound setting, should I turn it in (clockwise) until it won't turn anymore and then back out five clicks to get to the number five setting?  Haven't tried turning it yet, so I don't know how hard it is to adjust.

I see no adjustments for the forks, but do they have fork oil in them that can get changed to stiffen it some?  Not looking to spend any money on it right now as the new gear cost are adding up, but if I can do something to improve it for cheap I will.

Last questions is about the clutch.  I don't see in the service records that the clutch has been changed.  The clutch let's out right at the end of the lever range.  Is this normal?  Is there a way of adjusting the engagement  closer to the middle of the lever pull?  Does this mean the clutch is about to give up the ghost? How long do they last and is it expensive to replace?

Thanks for the help and more questions coming in the next few weeks!

[Stitch]

Rebound is increased by turning clockwise at the base of the shock. Settings are all measured as the number of adjuster turns out from the fully screwed in position. Approximately (6)?  5 is the max pre-load setting and you will find that it isn't enough. Markings can be seen with a flashlight and small mirror but I think you will find you will be hanging around the max setting anyways.

Suspension being soft is an understatement...more of a wet sponge to me. Searching past posts within the site will provide you a wealth of insight and be beneficial to you when you are ready to spend the dollars needed. Vast improvements when you start with servicing the front forks. Many have installed straight weight springs, different viscosity fork oil, and emulators. Some have liked the feel with just changing fork oil to a heavier weight (15w) which is easy on the budget (your cheap fix for now).

I am very happy with my front springs, oil and emulators which made a night and day difference for me. The rear shock, while not perfect, has held and am in a position to replace it. I will be going with a Wilbers unit for my needs.  So do the fork oil now, but suspension improvements will pay dividends down the road.

The clutch seems to be about par for me. Not sure of how long they last but I think a few have replaced around your mileage. There are a few tips for clutch cable pull for they seem stiff. I went with adjustable levers to customize the pull of both the clutch and brake levers. Go with a good pair if you do. I bought a set of Chinese made and had to modify the clutch lever to work properly (brake lever was just fine). Adjustable levers wont break the bank either.

[Roadinator]

Will look into fork oil and tweak the shock settings this weekend.  As for the clutch, the pull is pretty easy and seems to be fine, so I think I will not worry about it.

Thanks for the info.

[Dutch]

People sometimes think the rear wheel should not move with bike on center stand, in gear, clutch in. However the internal drag in the cluch will make that wheel turn, a little resistance (bike is on the road or you put your booth against the tire) is enough to stop turning.

The clutch should have a few mm free travel before it starts to work. Sometimes it is adjusted so that it has no free play at all. That is not correct.

[Roadinator]

My clutch engages right at about at the last 75% of releasing the lever.  Seems to work fine and I know the clutch cable was recently lubed from the dealer, just didn't know if it that was normal or adjustable.  Fun for speed shifting for sure.

[Roadinator]

Adjusted clutch a little this weekend and seems a bit better.  I poked around with the suspension some, but have a couple of questions.

Here is a pick of the bottom of my front fork.  Thinking about going to a 15w oil in the forks.  From the picture it looks like I have drain plugs on each fork.  Is this a drain plug?  Also, I am assuming you take off the top cap to add oil.  This would have the springs in there and have some pressure to it right?  Sounds easy enough to do and will look for some threads with more info.


For the rear shock I am having a hard time finding pre-load adjustments.  I turn the dial to screw-in and hear clicks put nothing seems to change?  I've tried to see marks on it, but can't seem to find any with a small mirror and light.  I've added a couple of iphone pics (I can shove it in there).  Am I missing something here?



Last question is the rebound adjustment.  In the pic is the rebound adjustment.  How do you get in there to adjust it?  Is the whole bottom of the shock spring cup (made that word up :-) turn and tighten?  Looks like a pain to get in there.  I am having a new back tire installed and I wonder if it would be easy to have them do it when the wheel is out? 

And is it me or is there a crack in the swing arm around the shock?  Do I need to address that as well?

Thanks!

[Dutch]

The bolt on the underside of the fork leg holds the inner and outer leg together.

The preload is dialed in with a (from memory) 12 mm spanner. You can just see it in pic 2, top right. When you remove the passanger seat you look on top of it.

rebound is adjusted with a screw driver. Clockwise is stiffer, counter-clockwise is more comfortable. It's the screw in bottom picture, just above the brake hose and in that slightly rusty ring.

Sorry that I'm too lazy to download the pictures, put arrows in and upload them again 

[Mustang]

rear preload adjuster on a Girly bike is under the seat

that bolt is NOT the drain it holds the guts of the forks in the lower legs
you have to remove fork legs from bike in order to drain by pouring old oil out the fork caps............

or flip the bike upside down 

[Roadinator]

Okay, thanks for the fork info.  I had read somewhere that certain models might have some sort of drain, but guess not.  Not going to worry about the forks for now, but the rear shock.  As far as pre-load, I turned it for multiply clicks and I thought you were suppose to see some marks on the side like it shows in the manual;

but I don't see any numbers on the side and/or it going up or down.  Am I missing something?

For the rebound, I figured from the manual it is insert and turn, I just don't see a lot of room to turn.  Also, is this the bottom of the shock mount in the swing arm breaking?

[Mustang]

yeah that crack doesn't look too promising.............I'd get it welded at the minimum and start looking for an ebay swingarm.

[Roadinator]

Would this work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-Triumph-Tiger-955-i-Rear-Back-Swing-Sway-Arm-Bar-/200633335379?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb6adbe53&vxp=mtr

[Mustang]

if your bike is an 05  .04's and earlier are a different swing arm .

I'd be all over that like white on rice ..................
thats a super price $80 bucks shipped

[Roadinator]

Thanks Mustang.  It's an '05.  Sweetness, made an offer on it, but seems I should just get it and be done with it.  I guess swing arms are not to difficult to swap out.  Any special tools needed? 

[Stitch]

 Might need a drift punch for lower shock bolt. Some di-electric or thick caliper pin grease will help hold the spacers when you re-assemble. Mind the chain adjustment too....slack is key.

Easy to drop those front forks after you get the swing arm done.  Lots o'crud sitting at the bottom. Judging from the picts, probably be a good idea to inspect the front bearings and lube up the speedo gear if your going to tackle the forks.

Graduation marks are under the crud facing the bracket for the adjuster.

[Roadinator]

Thanks Stitch.  Will look for the marks when I clean the crud closer to the bracket. Does the crud in there look unusually cruddy?