Cold start issue getting worse

[benebob]

1.  It is not a dud plug as it isn't symptomatic of any bad plug I've ever encountered.
2.  It is not a constant problem as in it comes and goes.  Came home today rode for 15 minutes and notta problem.  Brought it back to do the test that metal recommended and it runs poorly popping and farting the whole time.  Took it around the block and it stalled 2 times and got pushed home.
3.  The dealer I bought it from is probably one of the BEST stateside and it was a personal friend of the sales person's bike who had just done and wrote out the longest most anal letter of a winter maintenance log that I've ever seen this side of a complete tear down.  He did stuff that I would only think of doing of doing during a full restoration or if there was an issue, not general maint.
4.  Bike shows clearly that it was owned by an anal a$$hole not a freaking crappy parts replacer at a crappy dealer who had 2 weeks of training online.
5.  I still can't wrap my head around how adjusting many of these things will correct a problem that comes and goes.
6.  If I was physically able to take apart the bike at the moment I would but unfortunately the girl who hit my 885i that was poorly cared for, 7 years older and ran like a top is responsible for that not being the case yet.
7.  After adjusting the trims and icav they were set where the bike runs best so again, adjusting those didn't change an intermittent problem.

[metalguru]

Ok thanks for item 7.
Now is the time to remove the tank and carry out the diagnosis the correct way round.
Obviously you came to this forum for advice which has been duly given.
There are reasons why alot of techys are anal, it is because there is a specific route to follow in diagnosis and work proceedures. Sounds like a typical bike engineer who is proud of his work and documents for future reference so all jobs are undertaken correct with time and miles.
TBH I knew the last few steps were a waste of time without checking the obvious first.
Little things on these bikes are peculiar to themselves, like the little blue coilpac connectors that mysteriously come adrift and give an intermittent misfire.

Next job is tank off and check all that has been quoted before and I dare say the problem will be found.
Spark plugs do go down and more so when the mileage/useage is low as the insulator gets polluted.

[Bixxer Bob]

I feel for you Bene, mainly because I can't get a handle on mine either.  Despite already being on my second IACV, I'm probably going to leap in and buy another, if only to eliminate it from the equation.  The IACV does tickover and very low throttle openings hence it being associated with the jerkiness around 2,500 rpm.  That's about where you cut over from the IACV to the throttle bodies. 

[benebob]

Ok thanks for item 7.
Now is the time to remove the tank and carry out the diagnosis the correct way round.

Nope, now is time to find someone willing to take the tank off for me and do it as again.  I am not physically able to do it at the moment and I'm not about to wait as it is my normal daily transportation.

Sounds like a typical bike engineer who is proud of his work and documents for future reference so all jobs are undertaken correct with time and miles.

Exactly which is why I bought the bike based on seeing the list.

Little things on these bikes are peculiar to themselves, like the little blue coilpac connectors that mysteriously come adrift and give an intermittent misfire.

To me this is the problem with the whole system that Triumph used.  Any misfire that is bad enough to shut of a stinking bike should throw a code.  Sadly, I guess they still have some catch up to do in terms of engine management.

[metalguru]

I can empathise with your recovery so can try some stuff that is sit down, light work.
If you haven't already it would be wise to check the main 30A fuse situated to the side of the battery box access is via the saddle removal. These have a nasty habit of melting. The holder is not that clever either especially if lots of accesories are running or have been run.
When it is running with the lamps on see if the first alternator phase cable connector is warming up.(Or the phase wires). Follow the wires from the left hand engine case and you should be able to feel the connector, this is connected to a loop of cable that eventually ends up at the regulaltor/rectifier behind the L/H side panel, it is this loop of cable that is modified in the sas charging mod.
I am not saying it is connected with your poor running but it is connected to your voltage readings.
It has been a long time since I did this mod and I am not sure if the tank HAS to come off or not to reach the upper connector.

If you would care to PM me your email addy I have a copy of the manual.

[benebob]

Well I'm two weeks away from an appointment (never try to get our bike fixed when the 5 month riders need to get their bikes winterized) so a friend and I are gonna have a look this weekend sans the tank.  Have been riding it and still no codes nor any rough running so long as I don't start it by "getting on" the throttle followed by a coasting and letting it pop.  It likes to stall and if it doesn't a period of rough running follows.  Have 5' of 6mm air hose coming, as for the iacv is there any tests I can do or just clean it and the stepper.  NGK iridium plugs worth it or just standard ngks?