Author Topic: Simple stuff you really SHOULD get round to doing.  (Read 4688 times)

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March 18, 2014, 10:56:41 AM on

Offline Bixxer Bob (OP)

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I started this thread after blowing a fuse; something that's entirely avoidable.  Feel free to add your two penneth, but beware - to keep it on track -  I'll be trimming out any weeds, so don't be offended.  Here's my starter for ten:

Every month or so, pull off the rubber hoses under the left rear side of the tank and poke the tank drain.  You'll probably get some grey water the first time you do it but it'll save you getting water in the tank when you stop for fuel in the rain.

Every month or so, flip the lid off you fuse box and make sure all is clean and dry.  Pay particular attention to the 30A fuses,s they work hard and are the most likely to burn if there's any corrosion.

If you have the tank off, check the connector from the stator to the reg/rec, it's the big one with three yellow wires going into it.  Make sure it's clean and there 4are no signs of burning.  I believe that'll go a long way to protecting your charging circuit.  Like everything, of course, there's a balance.  Do it too often and you'll loosen the spade connectors with the same result. The first time you look you'll know whether you need to do it regularly.

And, since you'll have had the battery box off to do the tank, check the main 30A fuse on the side of the box in the same way as the fuse box.

I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

March 18, 2014, 04:07:49 PMReply #1 on

Offline chairhead

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Good pointers all of them  :thumbsup

I'd just like to add for those of us with spoke wheels to check them also on a regular basis, especially if you take her off-piste  now and again  :nap , I run a screwdriver around both sides of the wheel to make sure they all sound near enough the same, a couple of times I've hit a dud, all looks fine from the outside but inside the head of the nipple has sheared and its only the rim tape holding it in place.  :bug_eye

Also if you haven't already, mask off any holes of slots in the rear mudguard under the seats, I know none of them are particularly big, but stopping any water ingress where the ECU/electrical connecters are is in my book a plus. 

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August 02, 2014, 12:07:41 AMReply #2 on

Offline Bixxer Bob (OP)

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Another, this time from KK;  every now and then whip the front sprocket cover off and clean the crud out.  You'll be amazed at how much crap builds up in there.  And he's just added: check your chain rub strip while you're down there.  The chain will make short work of your swing arm if the rub strip goes.
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August 06, 2014, 01:21:25 AMReply #3 on

Offline KuzzinKenny

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and don't forget this one.......................


i never new I had one  :icon_redface:

KK
In Scotland, there`s no such thing as bad weather - only the wrong clothes !! Billy Connolly
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September 03, 2014, 05:48:46 AMReply #4 on

Offline cdubya

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Rear Shock Lower Attachment Needle Bearings:
Remove the lower rear shock attachment bolt and clean/regrease the needle bearings within the lower shock mount. Be gentle, the seals on each side are a tad fragile.
06 Girly

November 10, 2014, 11:08:25 PMReply #5 on

Offline rrraiderrr

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Gentlemen,

Finally got my bike last Friday and before i start using it on daily basis, i'd like to make sure i check every and all known issues and avoiding any chronological issues.
The bike is 2006 with 11.5K miles and per the owner just been serviced at local dealership shop at 11K.
I'll check all above mentioned issues, but will be glad to hear more if possible.

Thank you
Roman

January 23, 2015, 11:28:10 AMReply #6 on

Offline Bixxer Bob (OP)

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Jogged by a Steamer issue, when you do the usual stuff like oil / filter / plug changes, don't forget the little things like a few drops of oil in the locks, oil the cables, grease things like the seat catches, lever pivot pins, brake linkages, clean and lubricate the caliper slide pins.

Then stand back and look the bike from end to end while thinking about any moving part that you would like to keep moving, that you don't normally touch.  It puts you in a different frame of mind.
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January 23, 2015, 04:06:17 PMReply #7 on

Offline Mustang

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don't forget these little bastards .....................



there was even a grease fitting and still someone neglected it   :nono

February 23, 2015, 10:25:33 PMReply #8 on

Offline stuartw

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Just getting to know the bike so where is the grease fitting for these needles?

cheers stuart :icon_cool:

February 23, 2015, 10:42:56 PMReply #9 on

Offline Mustang

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Just getting to know the bike so where is the grease fitting for these needles?

cheers stuart :icon_cool:
in the shock linkage down below on a steamer...........................

February 23, 2015, 10:47:01 PMReply #10 on

Offline Bixxer Bob (OP)

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 :icon_lol: And doesn't exist on a Girly !!!

It's a strip and lube job  :BangHead
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November 09, 2015, 11:31:14 PMReply #11 on

Offline Bixxer Bob (OP)

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It's taken me years to successfully bleed my front brake.  The rear has always locked easily, especially if I wasn't thinking about it (like the time I got it wrong approaching a roundabout.  I thought the car approaching was taking the exit before mine and so I wasn't making any attempt to stop as there was room behind him for me.  But he didn't, he came round.  I bottomed the front, locked the rear and dodged behind him somewhat sideways due to the locked rear. No way could I stop, but I slowed enought to avoid a collision).

I recently cleaned the calipers, pistons and seals, refitted everything but, crucially, held the calipers up as high as the brake pipes would allow when changing the brake fluid.  It's very important to get the left one above the height of the mudguard.  Result is for the first time the lever is firm and stayed firm.  In the past it's always gone a bit soft after a day or two. 

I know this isn't new news or rocket science, more a case of getting round to a job I should  have done ages ago.  when I opened the bleed nipple for the first time to do the fluid change a small bubble of air came out.  Probably the same bubble that's been causing the problem.   :icon_rolleyes:
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November 10, 2015, 12:40:21 AMReply #12 on

Offline JoeDirt

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When I opened the bleed nipple for the first time to do the fluid change a small bubble of air came out.  Probably the same bubble that's been causing the problem.   :icon_rolleyes:

That bubble was taunting you Bixxer Bob...  :new_all_coholic

November 10, 2015, 06:00:13 PMReply #13 on

Offline KuzzinKenny

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I recently cleaned the calipers, pistons and seals, refitted everything but, crucially, held the calipers up as high as the brake pipes would allow when changing the brake fluid.  It's very important to get the left one above the height of the mudguard.  Result is for the first time the lever is firm and stayed firm.  In the past it's always gone a bit soft after a day or two. 

I know this isn't new news or rocket science, more a case of getting round to a job I should  have done ages ago.  when I opened the bleed nipple for the first time to do the fluid change a small bubble of air came out.  Probably the same bubble that's been causing the problem.   :icon_rolleyes:

and mind an put a piece O' wood in there to stop the piston poppin out  :icon_eek: :icon_redface:

 :icon_wink:

KK

In Scotland, there`s no such thing as bad weather - only the wrong clothes !! Billy Connolly
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Lucifer Orange 05 (2004) Purrrrrrfect !!

November 10, 2015, 09:56:45 PMReply #14 on

Offline fraserdog

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For the past 2 years my front brake has been soft,i bled it by every method I could think of and it would be fine for a day or so then go back to as it was.I have now changed the master cylinder for one of a 2012 Tiger 800 (straight swop),quick bleed and hey presto firm front brake which stays firm  :icon_smile:,apart from being a lot newer than the original the only difference is that the original has a 1/2" bore and the 800 one has a 14mm bore,not much difference I know but what a change in the front brake.
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