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How long does it take.....

Started by nickjtc, March 02, 2014, 08:22:31 PM

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nickjtc

Aaargh, fricker fracker and all the other deleted expletives. Where does it end? Had the centre front screen panel off over the weekend to install a LED voltmeter into the dash and when I tried to put it back on lo and behold the bottom three bolts don't fit any more.

I've given up swearing and cursing..... the silly thing is held on quite securely by the side bolts so I've put the others in a baggie for future consideration.
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

97tiger885

Quote from: nickjtc on March 18, 2014, 04:38:40 AM
Aaargh, fricker fracker and all the other deleted expletives. Where does it end? Had the centre front screen panel off over the weekend to install a LED voltmeter into the dash and when I tried to put it back on lo and behold the bottom three bolts don't fit any more.

I've given up swearing and cursing..... the silly thing is held on quite securely by the side bolts so I've put the others in a baggie for future consideration.


I have found the following technique to be successful.  For the front center screen,  first locate the two top bolts.  Do not tighten; start them only.   Locate the center bottom bolt.  This bolt attaches the panel to a metal tab which provides frame support.  Do not tighten.  Locate the bottom bolts to the left and right of the bottom center.  These connect the front panel to the side panes,  i.e., plastic to plastic. Do not tighten.  Locate the remaining bolts.  Tighten all bolts.

The order in which you do the front center panel bolts matters.  You need to find the order which works for you.  There was a lot of trial and error before I found a procedure that worked.  It still is a bit of a chore to do, but all of the bolts get in. The top two and the bottom center are the most difficult for me. I often use a small screwdriver as a locator to align the center bottom hole with the threads in the tab.


Mustang

psst ..............start the bottom center one first .
work your way to the top on both sides .
lift the entire fairing up with one hand from under the headlights to align the top two bolts ,
now tighten them all up , they only need to be finger tight
bam easy peasy

London_Phil

Might be worth checking the main fairing frame stay hasn't fractured. Mine had, and it really affected it. I believe it was modified on later bikes to include a bracing tube welded to the existing part, where it attaches to the frame

Sin_Tiger

Got any pics of that Phil.I know my baby has a bit of a twist but I have a spare.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

nickjtc

OK, here's a question for all of you experienced Steamerphiles. The infuriating fuel tank stretch has been discussed, and the flakey paint syndrome that seems to go with it. If a person has the plastic re-painted (which is being discussed on the 'choices choices' thread as we speak) what guarantee is there that it will not separate at some point in the future?
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

Mustang

Quote from: nickjtc on March 31, 2014, 12:03:39 AM
OK, here's a question for all of you experienced Steamerphiles. The infuriating fuel tank stretch has been discussed, and the flakey paint syndrome that seems to go with it. If a person has the plastic re-painted (which is being discussed on the 'choices choices' thread as we speak) what guarantee is there that it will not separate at some point in the future?
there isn't

but if one had a paint shop use an additive in the paint like they do with urethane bumper covers on autos
it would seem to suggest a snowball's chance in hell could be feasible

ssevy

I would call the Caswell tank liner folks and ask them if their tank kit seals a plastic tank. If it does, seal the inside and there will be an impervious barrier to the fuel migrating outward. That's what I am going to try.
I may not be big, but I'm slow.

nickjtc

Quote from: Mustang on March 18, 2014, 08:50:29 PM
psst ..............start the bottom center one first . work your way to the top on both sides .
lift the entire fairing up with one hand from under the headlights to align the top two bolts ,
now tighten them all up , they only need to be finger tight bam easy peasy

Just got around to re-doing the bolts (everything stays in place with the lower three missing, after all  :thumbsup) and you are right. Starting at the bottom does the trick. The fact that the rubber grommet things that they screw into are squishy helps, especially at the top. Thanks.
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

fishnbiker

Did you notice any strain on the screws when removing the fairing panel? Mine did that after a get-off twisted the headlight bracket that the front of the fairing attaches to, via the headlight fairing. You might need to check alignment & tweak the front subframe.

It's surprising what these old bears can take, without complaint until you have given it a chance to rest.

My 95 is at http://fishnbiker.smugmug.com/Motorcycles (http://fishnbiker.smugmug.com/Motorcycles)
Ken/Fishnbiker
& Felix, blue 95 Tiger, & Buzz, 08 blue Suzuki DR 650 SE, & Mini-D, 97 white Suzuki DR 350 SE

nickjtc

Quote from: fishnbiker on April 27, 2014, 06:55:42 AM
Did you notice any strain on the screws when removing the fairing panel?

No. The only strain was to my brain having to deal with this unwelcome idiosyncrasy of the bike. :icon_wink: But I'll forgive it that; every ride increases my joy of ownership.
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"