Progress

[HeavyHustler]

Nice work SS!

[ram33]

all looking good 
which led bulbs did you use for the headlights

[ssevy]

all looking good 
which led bulbs did you use for the headlights

http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3600-Lumen-H4-H6M-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html

[Sin_Tiger]

Oh, I almost forgot to mention those side panels. Rather than cut off the tab on the airbox, I used a compass to swing two arcs to correctly locate a hole which I drilled in the panel itself. This gives you an index to better secure the panels when you put in the two screws.

Excellent tip  (wish I could see the pics 

I'm interested to hear how things go with the underslung fuel hose, I'd considered that myself but just managed to squeeze a K&N filter in on the vertical with a bit of judicious trimming.

[ram33]

my fuel hose is routed under the carbs as it was the only way i could add a fuel filter without kinking the pipe.
been on a few runs and doesnt seem to be a problem at all

[rybes]

mines always gone under and never had a problem with it

[HeavyHustler]

I put mine above and now am having fueling problems occassionally..........grrrr

[ssevy]

Finished, but still some kinks. Here's the rest of what I finished:

I wired in the auxiliary LED lights, using Posi connectors and Posi taps, with heat shrink over the top. They work great, and can easily be removed and reused if desired.




I mounted the lights in such a way that if I drop the bike, they will be mostly protected by the engine bars, and are tight, but not so tight as to not be able to pivot on impact. Hopefully, I'll never test this



My buddy was at a local catheter plant when they were throwing out a bunch of heat shrink tubing which they were discarding, and he grabbed a bunch. Just the right size to slide the wires for the lights through, to prevent abrasion and produce a nice tight finished result

You can see how nice it slipped under the existing wire ties on the main frame tube, and how clean it leaves the battery box area




One thing I discovered when pulling apart the connector to find a switched 12 volt feed was the frame tube running up the center was broken clean off and just rubbing. From the looks of the break, this was an old wound. Since I have no welding gear at home, I took it apart enough to drive a steel rod inside the hollow tube on bottom, and left about 4 inches sticking out the top which I slid the top tube onto. I will get it welded during the winter, but frankly I just want to ride this again, as I am sick of working on it.


Here are the finished shots, with the new engine bars and lights in place. I know that I sound like a broken record, but this is the best looking model Triumph ever built!




Now for the remaining issue. Tonight was the first test ride, and it starts, idles and runs beautifully up to a point. When I got on the slab to test its high speed response, I discovered that wringing it up to 8000 RPMs is great, but it soon begins to stumble and limp along. Adding the choke helps, so I am sure it is a fuel supply issue. If I keep it below 3500 RPMs, it runs just fine, and if I gradually go up to about 5000 RPMs, it will also run okay. As soon as you get on it and stay on it hard though, cylinder #1 drops out and you lose power fast. Pulling in the clutch lets you get a clean rev again, but as soon as the engine is back under load, it fumbles and farts around.
Pulling over, there is plenty of gas visible in the inline filter, but I am sure it just isn't keeping up with demand. The Pingel has the fuel pipe coming out parallel with the ground, and there is a decent kink in the fuel hose at that point, and again at the other end of the inline filter, where it has to bend and go under the airbox.

Looking online tonight, I found some 90 degree brass bends which will let me eliminate the kinks. The fuel filter I got has a 1/4 inch tit on each end, and I'm going to get one with bigger tits and a 90 degree bend built in.
The auto type fuel hose that is available locally is really large OD compared to the factory stuff from Triumph. I have seen the Helix tubing online which appears to be a smaller OD. Has anyone used this stuff? Basically, the exit pipe on the Pingel is creating all of these issues, but I'm thinking the 90 degree filter will be just the ticket.

[Sin_Tiger]

I know what you mean, the local tube I got was just a fraction too big bore, hard to squeeze the clamps at that small a diameter, I was concerned about bending it also hence my questions about over V under plumbing. Haven't used the stuff you are referring to, I did look for some with preformed bends but couldn't find any in the size that was petrol resistant.

Catheter tubing  , nice I'll have to remember that when I'm in one of my anal moods  :icon_wink:

Looking good  even if it has got Girly front indicators  .

[HeavyHustler]

Nice work!  Where'd you get your aux lights?

[ssevy]

Cyclops.

[Mustang]

Catheter tubing  , nice I'll have to remember that when I'm in one of my anal moods  :icon_wink:

TMI.................. NOW i NEED EYE BLEACH FROM THE VISUAL i GOT FROM THAT STATEMENT

[Sin_Tiger]

Yeah, it didn't quite read the way I originally intended it to, sorry 

[ssevy]

After Mustang confirmed my diagnosis of fuel starvation (it is so cool to own a bike that has a genuine Jedi Grand Master to answer questions!), I hunted down a smaller diameter fuel hose, and ditched the inline filter. I had to wait for a new duckbill filter from Triumph Detroit, as in my assembling and disassembling the original apparently went through a wormhole into another galaxy. In any case, I re-routed it up and over and was able to get a straight shot onto the Pingel by doing so. No more kinks, and once back together tonight, she ran up the interstate like her ass was on fire. Problem solved!
Here are some comparison shots of the auto fuel line I was originally trying to use, and the Helix fuel line I got from a bike shop:




So...here is a list of the recent teardown and what I accomplished:

1- Valve clearance check
2- Mikunis rebuilt (thanks for the McMaster Carr info and threads)
3- Throttle cable replaced (I then broke the new one in the same place at the base of the curved rigid carb end when I was replacing the new fuel line tonight, but it still works fine)
4- Pingel petcock installed (would not do this again)
5- All electrical connectors sprayed with cleaner and then dielectric grease before reconnecting
6- Center stand installed
7- Engine bars installed
8- Broken front support braced internally until I get a chance to weld it this winter
9- LED aux lights installed
10- LED headlight bulbs installed
11- Doubletake mirrors installed
12- New iridium plugs installed
13- New airbox installed
14- New airbox and intake rubbers installed
15- New Nology coils and Hotwires installed
16- Carbs balanced
17- Coolant flushed and new Star Cool coolant installed
18- Sump guard and Mustang pegs powder coated gloss black
19- Rear shock rebuilt with new Ohlins spring and internal components
20- Forks rebuilt with all new seals and stouter spring and heavier oil (note:  Intiminators are not a good match for this bike)
21- New rubber shifter lever cover

Things completed when I bought it last summer:
1- New Moose handlebars
2- New grips and bar end weights
3- New Galfer dual front brake lines
4- New windscreen
5- LED instrument bulbs
6- LED flashing brake bulbs
7- New Shinko tires and new tubes with Dynabeads
8- New Motobatt battery

Over the winter:
1- Renazco seat

Things still left:
1- Chain, sprockets and rubbing block(?)
2- Clutch rod and shifter seals

[Sin_Tiger]

Good to read a result like that after all teh hard work you've put into it 

Just so I am clear, the "Helix" fuel hose is the one on the right with thinner wall and no fibre reinforcing?