Another Biking & Camping Trip (West Ulster)

[Moorso]

I was looking forward to this particular biking and camping weekend with gusto. Following from last month's weekend away, I had been able to refine my packing and also having had the hard pannier altered to accommodate the new exhaust, I had my hard luggage back which is roomier and more waterproof than the (excellent) Givi soft luggage. But mainly I needed headspace, time to think and also to consciously drift from other issues. The bike is ideal for this; I find that I flit between completely 'zoning out' and introspection whilst I ride. I was also looking forward to the National Trust theme that our biking weekends has taken on. This one would be no different although whether to visit The Argory or Castle Coole had yet to be decided. I like that aspect too...the freedom and concept that we would decide on the road.

The initial part of the journey on Friday night would follow the same process as July's; given that Kivi finishes work around 7pm, we leave Belfast at approximately 8:00 – 8.30pm and with the nights getting shorter it meant that we would be pitching our tents in the dark at Meelmore Lodge. However, we stopped in the Ganges to pick up a curry that we could gobble once the tents were pitched. It got darker sooner than expected and we were driving towards Newcastle and Tullymore Forest Park in the pitch black, but I like driving at night and I felt content as the cool air whooshed through the gap I had opened in my visor. The sweeping bends on the back roads behind Tullymore made all the more challenging as they came up from the gloom suddenly, my instincts were on high alert – amazing how your senses become heightened. On arrival into Meelmore we parked and were the only people camping in the upper site, my new head torch illuminating the pegs and poles. Although my next purchase will be a new tent to make life easier!

We left after packing up on Saturday morning towards Castlewellan for a fry; a full stomach just adds to the contentment of the situation in my experience! The weather was starting to come in, with dark angry looking clouds sweeping in overhead. But the rain (at this point) held off as we took the A50 (Bann Road) towards Ballyward and Banbridge. Immediately outside Castlewellan, this road has a wild feel to it, with the mountains on one side and stone walled pastoral farmland on the other. There was little traffic in our direction and the Go Pro attached to my helmet filmed the trip. Occasionally there were other bikers, but as we got closer to the main roads, the number increased. I then remembered that the Ulster Grand Prix at Dundrod was on and they were surely all travelling up to watch the races. We took a detour to the M1 to save time turning off at junction 13; the Annagarriff Woods clearly visible as we did so. The B131 (Blackisland Road) is thankfully in stark contrast to the motorway, narrow and twisting it is more of a thrill and the hedgerows reduced the cross winds. We cut west via Tullyroan Corner towards the National Trust property at The Argory. The driveway cuts through planted woodland with small beautifully crafted stone built gate lodges and cottages the signal that you have arrived somewhere grand. The main house sits on your left as the trees clear to manicured country house gardens overlooking the Blackwater River.

You enter the site via a courtyard to the side of the main house, presumably formerly housing the stables; although even these buildings are exceptionally crafted and impressive. The gardens contain hidden hedge 'rooms' complete with seating and there are river walks to the south east of the main property. Built in the 1820s, the Irish gentry house is surrounded by its 130-hectare (320-acre) wooded riverside estate and is the former home of the MacGeough-Bond family. To the immediate rear of the main house is a box hedge maze with a beautiful bronze sundial in the middle. The national Trust had laid on a Victorian themed weekend, with tours by people in character. We entered to be greeted by the House Maid (Mrs Hill). As with all these sorts of things, the rest of our tour weren't really interacting with the theme, so Kivi and I duly bantered with the guides helping them with their character. The house is eclectic but beautifully presented with period pieces and furniture and the theme really comes alive with letters, photographs and other artifacts from the original family. I think for that reason it is more tangible and you get a better sense of living there rather than a formal tour that tends to separate you from the building.

We finished the tour at approximately 2:30pm, slightly sooner than expected, so after another wander round the grounds we decided to visit another nearby National Trust property; Wellbrook Beetling Mill. This is a little unknown gem situated in rolling countryside near Drum Manor Forest Park. To get there we passed through Dungannon – although we had ridden through the town in July, I had not noticed how glorious the old town's architecture is. There are streets lined by regal old townhouses and an old parochial hall and attached school underneath the influence of a soaring steeple. The solid stone structures were built to last and give the street a solidity and noble quality. From here we took the A29 towards Cookstown before turning off on the A505 towards Omagh. The road is a gem, again, with traffic very light – although at this stage the rain had started to fall from a light mizzle to fairly large drops. But with my new Cordura bike trousers and jacket (from MAX-MPH) it didn't faze me at all; in fact I rather enjoyed it with the heated grips on! A right turning just past Drum Manor Forest Park leads you to a white building set beside a splendid waterfall and wooded glen; Wellbrook Beetling Mill.



The Mill is an eighteenth century water powered linen mill and is the last working beetling mill in Northern Ireland. 'Beetling' was the last stage of production whereby linen was given a sheen and smoothness by hammering with heavy wooden 'beetles'. Though it ceased production in 1961, the mill is extremely well preserved, and all the engines work and can be viewed in action. The tour guide was a young guy named Zach and he was extremely knowledgeable. Upstairs as part of the tour you are taken from the harvesting of flax right through to the completed linen products. It's also amazing how many modern terms are derived from this industry, e.g., "toe-rag" being the most memorable! At the end of the tour the mighty gears are turned to unlock the waterwheel and three of the machines start their hypnotic thumping. Apparently the older people in the area fell asleep to the sound of the mill when they were younger and the machines being reactivated during the tours brings the noise as a comfort rather than something annoying. The site manager (Beth) suggested Drum Manor Forest Park as the closest campsite and Kivi and I duly turned into the forest to get a look at the site. We were the only ones there and the place had an eery feel to it, furthermore, once down onto the campsite the old fires and doughnut tyre marks raised alarm bells and as it was still relatively early, we decided to head towards Castle Archdale to camp for the night. I have to say, I was relieved to leave Drum Manor.

We continued on the A505 past Creggan Wood (on the Barony Road). The road rose in height and the cross winds were exceptionally strong, the landscape became wilder with small loughs and heather punctuated only by the pristine road that followed the contours. I think I saw a sign to indicate that we were in part of the Sperrin Mountains and it certainly felt that we were atop a mountain range. The rain seemed to be coming from above and both sides simultaneously, at time I was laughing out loud in my helmet at the conditions but I was having so much fun! We pulled over in Irvinestown and fortunately a call was made to a friend who knew the owner of Mahon's Hotel. We were greeted warmly and the old fashioned pub / restaurant was a welcome breather from the wind and rain. We filled our stomachs whilst admiring the old lanterns, hunting horns and interesting objects hanging from the ceiling. But with light fading we got back on the bikes and headed to Castle Archdale to camp. The site was bunged and the price of £20.00 per person per tent per night was undoubtedly over the top especially when compared with Meelmore's £6.00 per night; we complained but had no-where else to go. Pitching our tents under the trees was, for me, a struggle as I grew increasingly frustrated with my old tent and the faff that putting it up entails. However, I slept like a log and woke up to have a long hot shower in the morning that brought me from my semi-sleep state.

We travelled towards Petticoe on the border, the roads agreeably empty at that time on a Sunday morning, the sun had started to shine although the winds were even stronger. Our destination was Donegal Town for breakfast and we were soon ascending again to a wild, rugged Irish landscape that Donegal seems to epitomize. The heathers were beautiful in blooms of purple and reds but they were straining in the strong gusts and the bike occasionally got caught, blowing over to the other side of the road. In this landscape I felt utterly free and a line describing biking came into my head that I think is apt: "I was alone but with my friends". There were no houses or habitations, just an unspoilt land although this soon ended as we entered Ballybofey and then parked in Donegal Town.

The fry was huge, but I ate it at an alarmingly quick rate my body clearly desperate for fuel (well....that's the excuse I'm justifying it with!). Kivi suggested taking the Bluestack Mountains route home, I have been on this road before and it is, quite simply, an absolute joy to ride; especially An Bearnas Mór (Barnesmore Gap). The road twists and turns and the bike can be thrown into the corners, the grippy surface enables you to take them at speed, even fully loaded with panniers and camping gear. Our destination was towards Letterkenny and north Donegal.The road up towards our next visit were steep and narrow, although the road surface is, in the main, still very good. We encountered heavier traffic on the larger N15, but once off this we had the roads to ourselves. The winds were, again, exceptional and the higher we climbed the stronger they got. Once parked up, the bikes had to be turned to face into the wind as it was so strong there was a genuine danger that they would blow over. We walked up to the site with our bodies leaned at a 45 degree angle!

Grianán of Aileach (or Ailigh) is situated on the summit of Greenan Mountain (itself a derivative of Grianán). The name Grianán of Aileach has been variously translated as "Stone Palace of the Sun", "Fortress of the Sun" and "Stone Temple of the Sun". Although heavily restored and rebuilt between 1874 and 1879 by Dr. Walter Bernard, a Derry antiquarian , there are no doubts as to the antiquity of the site as it is one of only five Irish locations marked on Ptolemy of Alexandria's 2nd century map of the world. The earthworks are the remains of a large hillfort that once enclosed the hill top, this is thought to have been built in the Late Bronze Age or Iron Age. The ramparts of the hillfort have been eroded by time and only hints of their former stature remain, but recent accurate surveys show that there were two sets of ramparts, an inner and outer. Both of the ramparts were comprised of a pair of banks and the total area enclosed by the outer boundary is about 5 acres.

It has been a while since I was up at the site and it brought back good memories. When i first passed my test, this was one of the first places Kivi and I rode to and it remains special to me for that reason as well as being a place of antiquity that I am interested in. There were a few hardy visitors, but the dark clouds that rolled in from no-where depositing a deluge of rain soon scattered everyone - us included! We returned to the N15 back to Derry and we duly parked the bikes up at Kivi's house where his other half had prepared a lovely warming stew for us. He was picking his van up and bringing it back to Belfast so the return journey was, for me, a solo one. I left at approximately 5:30pm knowing all too well that the weather and light were fading. Sure enough it was getting dark and cold by the time I made it to the Glenshane Pass. I was glad to pull up home, I was exhilarated, refreshed and full of adrenaline but at the same time I was tired but a good tired that you get from being active and occupied rather than lethargy. I showed Nicola the photographs I took and I was glad to be on the big, comfy sofa. Already, though, I itch for the next trip! There are a few refinements to be made - mainly to camping equipment - but once those are made I think I will be happy going anywhere. They will have to be made though as the months pass by the weather gets colder and wetter. If we are to continue doing these trips on a monthly basis, then I need to invest!

[KuzzinKenny]

Hey Moorso !! Great ride report and vids 

have a looky at these tents if yer thinkin O a new one !!

http://www.slumit.co.uk/

i got the 2 man but should have got the 3, forgot how much space bike gear takes up 

i've only managed to use it a few times and i don't have any other tents to compare it to but i think its great 

KK

ps slumit shop on fleabay !!

[Moorso]

Hey KuzzinKenny...many thanks!! 

Funny you should say that.....I've been looking at the slummit tents and am going to buy one (when I next get paid!!).  Interesting that you suggest getting the 3 man....I was going to get the 2 man (the cub I think they call it).

But I looked at the dimensions and they aren't that dissimilar. Is the 2 man one really cramped??

[KuzzinKenny]

Hey Moorso !! as i pack everythin and the kitchen sink  i need the space, also depends on yer build so easy way to check is mark out a space on the floor 210 x 140 and see how much room that is and remember to add yer bike gear 

hope this helps

KK

[Moorso]

easy way to check is mark out a space on the floor 210 x 140 and see how much room that is and remember to add yer bike gear

Brilliant!! Why did I not think of that?!  That's what I'll do...thanks KK!
I'm 6'1" and just over 15st (about 212lbs).