DAR Confirmed With Possible Complications

[Bsquared]

I hope that one or other of the Steamer experts might be able to help me on DAR and its rectification on a 95 Steamer. I have worked through the DAR posts on this forum and they have allowed me to get to the stage were the alternator is now out. I have established that the alternator bolt is tight and that the bolt on the alternator side into the splined rod is tight. Unfortunately when removing the alternator the cush rubbers were found to be in pieces and in the process of pulling the alternator out the splined shaft came with it for about 1/2 an inch and then all the mashed rubber fell out.

I didn't hear any noises that would suggest that anything dropped in the engine (sprag clutch) and with a bit of wiggling and turning the shaft reseated itself back into its recess.

All this would suggest that:

a. The bolt on the clutch side has come loose or more likely sheared, therefore I will have to go into to the clutch side to deal with this.
b. I will need to replace the existing shaft and separate bolts with the hollow shaft conversion with the single bolt.

I do however have three questions for the experts.

1. Is there any easy way of telling whether I now have a problem with the sprag clutch or would the shaft have to have come completely out and then I would have heard the sprag clutch drop?
2. Is there any point in replacing the alternator cush rubbers and closing everything up from the alternator side as a short term solution as cash is tight?
3. Again due to the cash situation, does anyone have any alternative way of holding the clutch basket without buying the Triumph tool?

I would be most grateful for any comments and advice.

[Mustang]

you probably are ok as far as the sprag clutch falling into the innards .

new cush rubbers should keep you going 

lot's of people have run literally thousands of miles with broken alt shaft bolts and never even knew it 
if you can find some worn out plates from a wrecker ,you can make a tool out of a fiber plate and a steel plate by bolting the two together , now it will hold the hub still .

[Bsquared]

Mustang. Thanks for your response.

The cush rubbers and a new O ring are on order, so I will try putting it all back together this weekend. I shall keep my fingers crossed that the sprag clutch is where it should be and that the shaft didn't come out any further than I thought it did, so there aren't any horrible noises the first time that I try to start the bike.

I will look for some used plates so that I can replace the alternator shaft when cash and time permits, hopefully over this winter.

[nucleardon]

My only caution in reassembly, from experience, small shims on the shaft behind the clutch basket may be necessary. I fought with clutch adjustment after replacing my broken bolt, and finally tried a very small shim on suggestion of my local dealer, ninety cent part did the trick....after a couple hours of head scratching.

[Bsquared]

The Tiger is now purring, well almost as there is still the matter of the bolt on the clutch side, but DAR is much reduced. There was an element of trepidation when starting once the alternator was reinstalled, just in case.

I am hoping to attaching a picture of the remains of the alternator cush rubbers. Not pretty.

Many thank Mustang. Nucleardon, I will bear that in mind when I go in from the clutch side.

[London_Phil]

One thing I found, from experience, is its easy to nip/damage the large alternator O-ring on refitting, especially if the original is reused. Check your not getting oil down the side from that joint, after a few runs.

[Bsquared]

Thanks, I'll keep an eye on this. I followed the recommendation in another DAR post and made sure the O ring was well greased before the alternator was installed. I have a spare O ring just in case.