1997 Steamer. Starter won't turn, engine locked. HELP !

[Danwarb]

Also I emptied the coolant, removed that fat water pipe from the engine block and my God was the water deep green but in the engine block really rusty brown. 

Surely the water should be the same colour through out if it's circling?

I'd like to flush the system out properly. Is there a way I can fill it, start it then see the coolant being pumped out of the bike to ensure the pump is working while flushing it all out?

How else can I check the pump is working please guys?

Any tips for this please guys?

[Mustang]

run it with the radiator cap off and when the thermostat opens you should be able to see the coolant in radiator moving .

you will need to have the fuel tank off the bike though so you can see in the rad.

[Danwarb]

run it with the radiator cap off and when the thermostat opens you should be able to see the coolant in radiator moving .

you will need to have the fuel tank off the bike though so you can see in the rad.

Brilliant Mustang ! Thank you.

[Danwarb]

Commutator should be smooth as you say; even using emery will leave it rough enough to spark then you get pitting and burning.  I used to skim them on a lathe ( which you can't) but finish them with scotchbright (green pan scourer).  Looking at yours, a spin in your drill and polish with scotchbright should suffice.  When you're happy with it, clean the copper dust out from between the segments carefully.  Don't dig grooves otherwise you'll just accelerate the wear on the new brushes.

I've spun my motors commutators over a file then to finish actually spun the commutators over a clean steel plastering trowel in an attempt to buff the copper contacts. To some degree it's worked.
Maybe I'll keep going a bit more with this tomorrow !

[Sin_Tiger]

That looks pretty good, doing any more will just remove a lot of copper unnecessarily.

[Danwarb]

That looks pretty good, doing any more will just remove a lot of copper unnecessarily.

Hi Sin,

Yes absolutely I'm with you how ever I couldn't sleep last night thinking about how I might polish these commutators further. The thought of crunching down new brushes in no time drove me nuts !!

This was the process I applied to get to beautifully smooth and polished commutators with out removing much copper.

1) Attach the motor spindle on to a cordless drill.
2) Spin the commutators over a file as lightly as possible to just, just about get the commutators back in shape.
3) Then spin the commutators lightly again over a FINE pumis stone.
4) Then spin the commutators lightly over a flat steel plate such as a plasterers trowel.
5) Then run the back side of a Stanley blade along between the commutators to remove any built up filed away copper and dirt.
6) Finally the best bit ! (I got this idea from watching my barber sharpen razors) Get an old leather belt, lay it along the edge of chopping board, place with commutators flat on the leather then give it a good 3 to 5 minute spin and VOILA !!

Polished, shiny commutators !!! WOHOOOOOoooo !!!

[Danwarb]

DARN IT !!

I've put the reconditioned motor in the bike and it turned ok.

Re-assembled the rest of the bike then went to start it.
First time it turned over 6 times then stopped, second time twice then third time once before the stater didn't turn over any more.

Could it be the battery drained flat over 2 days while connected?

Could it be the sprag clutch? Is that a symptom?

[Mustang]

did you check the windings on the motor armature ?

[ram33]

sprag problem usually makes a loud clunking noise like a hammer hitting the crankcase

[JayDub]

I would tend to listen to Sin regarding the battery, (he knows a thing or two in that department  :icon_wink:) a 20 min charge wouldn't help a great deal, charge it overnight - regardless of the claims of the manufacturer. 

[threepot]

I'd take the thermostat out to flush,it could be stuck closed as Ian says?? Its in the pipe that fits to the top of radiator. Did you crank engine over with plugs out? Is your other battery totally caput? Worth charging,and trying that?

On Mottobat batteries...I was told by someone who works for a well known retailer,that they have lot's of this brand returned!! Thats why I bought a Yuasa!

[Danwarb]

I'd take the thermostat out to flush,it could be stuck closed as Ian says?? Its in the pipe that fits to the top of radiator. Did you crank engine over with plugs out? Is your other battery totally caput? Worth charging,and trying that?

On Mottobat batteries...I was told by someone who works for a well known retailer,that they have lot's of this brand returned!! Thats why I bought a Yuasa!

BANG ON Mr Threepot !!

It was a dud MOTOBATT !! I fitted my previous battery, it took a few turn to suck in petrol then she started YES YES YES !! I took her for a spin and the exeleration was SO much better than before ! PLENTY OF POWER !! Wohooooo !!

So my starter motor refurb worked out a treat AND not one drop of petrol from the carbs so I've sorted those out as well.

Thanks so much to all of you. I couldn't have done it with out you.

My next challenge was that when I'd power down the revs would drop so low the engine kept cutting out. I guess I need to adjust the throttle cable setting at the carb end right?

[nickjtc]

Good for you; SOOO nice when spending a few hours/days making love (aka fettling) to our machines produces positive results.  :icon_wink:

[threepot]

Nice one No excuse for not joining us in July now eh??

[ram33]

My next challenge was that when I'd power down the revs would drop so low the engine kept cutting out. I guess I need to adjust the throttle cable setting at the carb end right?

the throttle cable is not for setting the tickover and it should have a bit of free play (so you can turn bars without it reving up) the tickover is set with the knob o the side. if it ticks over ok when standing but drops when you close throttle when riding, make sure the carbs are balanced. if so then i would look adusting the mixture screws slightly