Antifreeze

[KuzzinKenny]

No idea what this stuff's like  but it is ££$$  and there's no pressure in the system cos there's no water 

http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk

KK

[Bixxer Bob]

At around £30 for 5 litres it isn't that expensive (less than an oil change) and it's fit and forget, never needs changing so long term could save money.

[RumRunnerGuy]

No idea what this stuff's like  but it is ££$$  and there's no pressure in the system cos there's no water 

http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk

KK

Very interesting, may have to look in to this.  I like the idea of lowering the pressure inside the cooling system due to the lack of boiling.

[motoOzarks]

Will it mix with water in a pinch?

If tiger does a nap and damages the cooling system and you lose the special sauce can you top off with water/antifreeze while some of this is still in there and be good to finish a trip?

[RumRunnerGuy]

Will it mix with water in a pinch?

If tiger does a nap and damages the cooling system and you lose the special sauce can you top off with water/antifreeze while some of this is still in there and be good to finish a trip?

Nope, you'd have to carry more of it with you.

[KuzzinKenny]

There's 2 parts to this stuff 

http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/Coolants/Performance/prep_fluid

but this stuff can be used a few times 

KK

[RumRunnerGuy]

There's 2 parts to this stuff 

http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/Coolants/Performance/prep_fluid

but this stuff can be used a few times 

KK

The problem (as I see it) with the prep fluid when you read it is that "You can use it a couple of times, IF you get 98% of the water out of the system first" 
So how do you know how much water you got out of the system, and how do you know if you can reuse the prep fluid? 

[Dyn Blin]

I remember that some antifreeze would attack alloy, but seeing as most engines are alloy now,  then I assume all antifreeze manufacturers have adapted... I spose it helps to read the label just the same

Major manufacturers have been utilizing aluminum-safe formulations for  some time and AFAIK, the Euro/Japanese impasse on corrosion inhibitors has been resolved.  That said, prolonged stagnant condition and/or using hard water can both still cause issues with corrosion. Best Practice is to change out before storage and always use distilled water to dilute.   

[Sin_Tiger]

All antifreeze types are not equal.  While they all will protect from freezing/boiling and from corrosion, some just work better and last longer.  I use Prestone G05 that is designed for European cars mixed with Distilled water (very important) at a 50/50 ratio.  G05 lasts longer than anything on the market.  Being a European car nut, I always have it on the shelf.  It is only a couple of dollars more than regular stuff.  Not worth it to skimp in my book.

If you flush your system every couple of years even the cheapest green stuff will work fine.  I just like the added peace of mind that using the best offers me.  (remember to use only distilled water though...)

having used a lot of coolant treatments in various engines in all climates and having had to test them on a weekly basis, the ones with good nitrate control are the best for maintaining corrosion protection. Bluecol was the one I remember as being the most stable long term, not sure if you can still get it, I buy in bulk  and yes the quality of water has a noticeable effect on ANY coolant additive performance. If you run an aircon, tap the condensate into a bottle through a filter, distilled water for free.

[Bixxer Bob]

I use the condensate from the tumble drier (condensing variety).  It produces gallons of the stuff, goes in the iron too.....

[supercoupe1993]

I had been using the Evans coolant on my Goldwings all 3 of them. It worked great as long as you do the proper prep. The issues i ran into were finding a Zero pressure or extremely low pressure radiator cap. That sounds easy, it wasn't. I spent a lot of time at Napa looking at spec books.
Can you use off the shelf stuff in a pinch YES. But once you get back to "civilization" you need to re-prep and put the right stuff in. Evans recommends if you are in such an emergency situation to use Sierra coolant. It mixes better with their stuff.
Another issue i ran into was leaks. If you have a leak with the regular coolant, that leak will be worse with the Evans. Evans coolant has smaller molecules, I would guess. So make sure your system doesn't have any leaks.
Did my bike run cooler, yes! it ran cooler, heated up to "normal" operating range quicker. Rode my Goldwings in slow moving parades, often and the temp gauge never went above the middle of my Normal range.
I have more Evans coolant to put into the tiger, i just haven't gotten there yet.

Currently my Tiger has blue Mercedes Benz coolant. The previous owner was over the top with that stuff. I haven't had any issues with it, but finding that stuff is difficult.

Chris Palmer
2000 Tiger
1983 BMW R100RS
1981 Honda Goldwing GL1100I-sold
1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100I-wrecked, rebuilt, sold
1983 Honda Goldwing Gl1100A-Sold-I'm out of the Goldwing business.

[benebob]

Okay so after doing the shims I went to drain my cooant last night and i can't find the drain plug (later 1050 case).  Also it seems the drain plug is on the cylinder (mine seems to be under the left exhaust port on the front side of the head which would only drain it to that point).  Although the book doesn't say so I'm assuming I would also need to pop the hose off the water pump to do a full drain.  Am going with the yellow coolant as that is what i use in the TVR and Xk8, would hate to have yet another bottle of coolant sitting around if I don't need to.  As for the Evans I've toyed around with it for my TVR but haven't pulled the trigger yet  In theory it sounds great but for that application I am worried more about heat under the hood then anything.  Don't want to cook my fiberglass as nothing good will come from that.

[Timbox2]

Okay so after doing the shims I went to drain my cooant last night and i can't find the drain plug (later 1050 case).  Also it seems the drain plug is on the cylinder (mine seems to be under the left exhaust port on the front side of the head which would only drain it to that point).  Although the book doesn't say so I'm assuming I would also need to pop the hose off the water pump to do a full drain.  Am going with the yellow coolant as that is what i use in the TVR and Xk8, would hate to have yet another bottle of coolant sitting around if I don't need to.  As for the Evans I've toyed around with it for my TVR but haven't pulled the trigger yet  In theory it sounds great but for that application I am worried more about heat under the hood then anything.  Don't want to cook my fiberglass as nothing good will come from that.

Even on the earlier 955 engines you pop that hose off for a full drain, does your engine still have a bleed bolt on the stat housing?

[KuzzinKenny]

The issues i ran into were finding a Zero pressure or extremely low pressure radiator cap.

That never crossed my mind 

a rad with no expansion bottle is no problem but the Tigger has one !! get a spare cap and remove the return part of the cap  that way the coolant can flow and burp itself 

just my thoughts 

KK

[KuzzinKenny]

and there's more 

http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=193&sector=Motorsport

KK