Rear caliper seals 06 Girly

[benebob]

Okay so my rear pads were toast today and I can tell they have been dragging a bit at times so I cleaned everything up real good and indeed the one piston is a bit slow to respond.  Mine is a very late Girly (1050 case etc).  I went to my local dealer's online list and they don't have (or have the seals listed but you can get the seal and piston together) for the cast wheel bikes.  Looking at Fleabay there is a couple uk sellers that list the seals (and a couple other parts) and some say 04-06 and others say 92-12 for the same kit.  Would prefer to get from my dealer just for time sake but hoping someone can chime in.  Also, how hard are these to do?  Never did brake calipers as all my cars I simply bought remanned for the price of me rebuilding 'em.

[Timbox2]

Yep, although there have been a couple of types of rear pads,  pistons and seals are the same, they are 27mm for reference and the same front and back on the Girlies at least.
Some older bike parts shops can supply the seals just by size, its a Nissin caliper that is used on many different bikes, I would also replace the slider pin boots while your at it and I dont think you can get these from Triumph

Ive replaced the seals on all mine now this year(see my post above yours for the fronts) and its fairly straightforward. Its actually quite rare that you need pistons as they will normally clean up with scotchbrite and autosol, unless there is deep corrosion from winter riding.  Absolute cleanliness is a must and the trickiest bit is getting the pistons out, I just gradually pump them out a bit at a time, holding one till the other catches up. You can get special pliers that grip inside the piston to make it easier but I never needed them.

Its normally the outer dust seal that causes the piston to stick and you need to clean the groove it sits in carefully with a blunt pick or dremel with brass wheel before putting the new one back and use red rubber grease too. Rear caliper is a doddle to bleed too. From memory the rear took me a couple of hours tops start to finish.

Oh yeah, just remembered, have you got a Honda dealer near you?, a Transalp 650 or 700 uses the same seals and slider pin boots on the front caliper.

Honda part nos are 06431MA3405 for the piston seals,  45132166016 for large boot and 45133MA3006 for small boot, cheaper from Honda too if memory serves me right.

[HockleyBoy]

Pretty much any of the 27mm seals listed for Honda, Suzuki or Kawasaki on ebay will be ok, I always buy by size rather than going bike specific as Triumph seals seem to be a bit overpriced.

[Timbox2]

Pretty much any of the 27mm seals listed for Honda, Suzuki or Kawasaki on ebay will be ok, I always buy by size rather than going bike specific as Triumph seals seem to be a bit overpriced.

Same here really mate, I bought the kit off Powerhouse to do the fronts, really good quality, everything included, seals, slider boots, bleed nipples and covers, banjo washers and red grease. I would have thought our US cousins would have similar, maybe not.

[benebob]

Cool so these should work then right?  None on this side of the pond with the slider rubber etc. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-S-Brake-Caliper-Seal-Kit-27mm-Rear-for-Honda-VFR700F2-Interceptor-1986-1987-/311722092338?hash=item489415a732:g:3b0AAOSwPCVYBTR4&vxp=mtr 

[HockleyBoy]

Cant be absolutely sure but they look fine to me, that is exactly the sort of thing I buy when I change mine which is a fairly regular occurrence.

The slider rubbers are also used on a number of bikes so it worth checking any that use the nissin brakes, pretty sure the last time I changed the boots etc I used Honda parts.

[HockleyBoy]

Same here really mate, I bought the kit off Powerhouse to do the fronts, really good quality, everything included, seals, slider boots, bleed nipples and covers, banjo washers and red grease. I would have thought our US cousins would have similar, maybe not.

That kit you had certainly makes thing easier when sourcing the parts, I am guessing you can get something similar over there but probably not listed as Triumph specific.

[Timbox2]

That kit you had certainly makes thing easier when sourcing the parts, I am guessing you can get something similar over there but probably not listed as Triumph specific.

If you just want the piston seals though, I think its the early Yamaha Super Ten kits that work out the cheapest, £8 odd per caliper from Yamaha, compared to £28 from Triumph. Like Triumph though, Yamaha dont do the slider boots???

Wasnt there a bloke turned up here a few years back with cheap Yamaha Piston and seal kits??

[benebob]

I think on this side of the pond the problem is that not many people actually do this dirty work themselves anymore.  I've actually never rebuilt a brake caliper.  Have always found remanned calipers for pretty much the same price as it would cost me to get the parts to rebuild it myself.  On the Tiger, not so much though I did check ebay for a used caliper to rebuild first and have ready to plug and play.

Hope they get here Monday or Tuesday.  Seems I'm getting a lot of vehicle issues just in time for ski season and the weather to turn colder. 

[Bixxer Bob]

Just a hint to help you not have to do these again next year.  Don't use copper grease (or any other mineral grease) on the rubber parts.  It causes the rubber to swell and bind.  Use red rubber grease.  Plenty on Ebay.

[benebob]

I didn't grease 'em.  Just dropped the seals in some fluid then coated the pistons with some and turned 'em in.  Seems to be okay.  Boy the front dust seal was coded with crap and the crevis was nasty. 

[Timbox2]

I didn't grease 'em.  Just dropped the seals in some fluid then coated the pistons with some and turned 'em in.  Seems to be okay.  Boy the front dust seal was coded with crap and the crevis was nasty.

Tut, tut, slapped wrists

[Bixxer Bob]

I didn't grease 'em.  Just dropped the seals in some fluid then coated the pistons with some and turned 'em in.  Seems to be okay.  Boy the front dust seal was coded with crap and the crevis was nasty.

I was meaning more the rubber boots and seals for the slider pins.  I made the mistake myself; using copper grease on the pins.  Then I had trouble with the brakes binding caused by the rubber swelling.  Of course, the other cuse of binding brakes is the crud in the recess where the seal goes not allowing it to seat properly.  As I'm sure you realised.

[benebob]

Well afteer about a 100 miles today.  I can say the damn thing is still dragging.  Fair amount of brake dust on the rear wheel and it was warm every time I got off.  Fronts were nice and cold.

[Ossian]

It might be worthwhile taking the foot lever off and lubricating the pivot pin and check and clean/lube the clevis pin linking the lever to the m/c. Also check that the small lever return spring is correctly in place.