should I get another Girly?

[abruzzi]

The first official pic of my new Tiger:

[Sin_Tiger]

Lovely shot and she does look rather tidy, good find 

[Timbox2]

Nice, will look even better with a Wilbers :icon_wink:

[Geoff W]

Nice, will look even better with a Wilbers :icon_wink:

In Wales that would be thought of as subtle.

[trophydave]

Timbox2,you have a PM.

[abruzzi]

So this weekend saw an oil change (the old stuff looks pretty clean) and a new map on the ecu - 10121.  Even without the TOR can, the TOR map is an improvement.  A little cooler running, a little more umph, a little less hunting at idle.  Looking at the 10121 map in tuneecu, there is a weird little zig-zag on one of the lines in the table.  Not sure what it is, but I used it anyway, and for the moment the bike is happy.  There seems to be a version of that map that Removed the zig-zag, but I figured I'd use the stock 10121 map for now.

None of the suspension bits got installed this weekend because I don't have a center stand or any other way to get the weight off either end without the bike falling over.  The center stand (and the quick release fuel connectors) arrive tomorrow, so will likely get done, along with some of the suspension work, next weekend.

[Timbox2]

You might want to remove the plugs in the swingarm for the shock lower mount and spray some form of release agent in there in preparation. And get ready to use a heat gun or similar.

[abruzzi]

You might want to remove the plugs in the swingarm for the shock lower mount and spray some form of release agent in there in preparation. And get ready to use a heat gun or similar.

I have even better.  I have a brother that is a professional mechanic with $100k worth of SnapOn tools, and a hell of a lot more knowledge than me.

I'm also, not sure the difference but last year when I removed the shock on my 2006 KTM Adventure, it came out very easily.  Maybe the desert doesn't tend to corrode things like you guys in greener parts of the world. 

[abruzzi]

Small update--I got the SW Motech center stand installed today.  Aside from the springs, it was pretty easy to install.  My 2003 had the triumph center stand, and I saw a lot of people complaining about it "sagging".  I never had any issue with mine, but I went with the SW Motech this time.  I'm trying to access my old memory of the triumph stand, but it seems like the SW Motech reduces clearance more than the triumph because those mounting brackets stick down quite a bit. 

Nonetheless, it worked well, and was a necessary first step to some of what I'm hoping to do this weekend which includes replacing the front springs with springs more suited to my weight.  I'm going to let someone else install the racetech gold valves, but getting proper weight springs, and reducing the preload spaces back to a more normal amount should help get rid of the harshness in the front end.

[Bixxer Bob]

So this weekend saw an oil change (the old stuff looks pretty clean) and a new map on the ecu - 10121.  Even without the TOR can, the TOR map is an improvement.  A little cooler running, a little more umph, a little less hunting at idle.  Looking at the 10121 map in tuneecu, there is a weird little zig-zag on one of the lines in the table.  Not sure what it is, but I used it anyway, and for the moment the bike is happy.  There seems to be a version of that map that Removed the zig-zag, but I figured I'd use the stock 10121 map for now.

None of the suspension bits got installed this weekend because I don't have a center stand or any other way to get the weight off either end without the bike falling over.  The center stand (and the quick release fuel connectors) arrive tomorrow, so will likely get done, along with some of the suspension work, next weekend.

The improvementcould just be you've reset the trims mate.  A few miles will reveal all.  If it stays good, fantastic!  If it reverts to type it was just the trims.  I never did it, but current thinking is that if you remap then instll an O2 bypass it should stay locked to the zero'd trims.  It would be good to see.....

[abruzzi]

Arrgh.

In the process of replacing the plastic fuel quick release connectors, one of the female connectors snapped off pretty much flush with metal plate, so there is nothing to grab onto.  I tried the hot flathead screwdriver trick, but it just stripped off material on the inside.  My brother is going to look at it tomorrow to see if he has any extractors that might work on it.

Do I have to worry about scoring the threads when removing the plastic, or will the teflon goop I have seal any imperfections?

[Nick Calne]

 I did that on my daytona 955 some years back. Very annoying design fault!

[Timbox2]

Arrgh.

In the process of replacing the plastic fuel quick release connectors, one of the female connectors snapped off pretty much flush with metal plate, so there is nothing to grab onto.  I tried the hot flathead screwdriver trick, but it just stripped off material on the inside.  My brother is going to look at it tomorrow to see if he has any extractors that might work on it.

Do I have to worry about scoring the threads when removing the plastic, or will the teflon goop I have seal any imperfections?

Yep, been there done that. I used a tiny file to file through the plastic then dental picks. Its a tapered pipe thread so as long as you dont totally muller it should be fine. Now, when you screw the metal ones in how far do you tighten?  Thats when you find out how brave you are

[Sin_Tiger]

Getting the plastic bits out takes patience. If your brother has tools like a thread restorer he'll manage, if not you can make a little pick up by grinding down an old hacksaw blade to fit the thread profile, you can Haa the tip for stubborn bits but patience is the best tool, that's usually right at the bottom of my toolbox 

If you use liquid sealant on a tapered thread, use a lot less torque than you normally would, i.e. as soon as you feel resistance and there are 2 or less threads showing, stop.

It's a good idea once you've got everything cleaned up but before you do the final assembly, to carry out a trial run with a drop or two of light oil just to see where things all end up with alignment and get a feel for resistance. Don't forget to degrease the threads before final assembly.

[Chris Canning]

Same as Tim small model file gently file through the plastic till you feel metal on metal do the same opposite side just prise it out the two half's with a small screw driver,if your in the States buy Gasoiler to seal the thread it's fantastic stuff.