VALVE keeper failure - FIXED!

[threepot]

That's the route id go. If the guide looks ok? Lightly lapp a new valve in. You can check its perpendicular and sealing by a liquid check,or even a very thin feeler guage?? But you need a new chain?? What s the milage?

[bowyer2002]

@threepot - 11k miles on the odometer.
I can still see the hone marks on the cylinder walls.
I presume the timing chain is okay.
This bike had been ridden by a 50yo man until I got it.
And it continues an easy life.

[threepot]

Crosshatch was evident in my Super3 after 50k when I changed the inlets a while back.
Chain should be ok at 11k? But it's still over 20yrs old? A new one would guarantee spot on timing!
As mustang noted,timing looked out? the t1 Mark on the igniter should point to the pick up when the arrows on the cams point inwards. How far out camchain tensioner was is a good indicator on wear. A Morse chain (american/jap manufacture) is available. Cheaper than original.

[ssevy]

Hate to mention it, but when something goes awry shortly after having just completed a service, there is usually a connection. I don't know what it could have been, but double check the valve clearances again, and I would drop a new chain and tensioner spring in too.
Just my two cents, and only worth that much

[threepot]

Agree with ssevy. How are the other valves? Spend a little time and check how thick the shims are. The thicker the better. Any bordering on the low spec might indicate a new valve is needed? That was the problem with my super3. Worth lapping all valves when head is off. you'll probably find all exhaust will be ok? Valve oil seals seem quite cheap your side?

[ssevy]

I have been thinking about possible causes of your broken piece. Is this the valve that needed an extra thin shim to bring the gap into spec?
If so, I'm wondering if it somehow came partially out of the bucket at an angle, resulting in the cam lobe exerting so much pressure that it shattered the keeper?
Just a thought?

[bowyer2002]

It was the valve with the thin shim.
The engine had an audible 'ticking' since I got it.
After my valve service, where i triple checked all my measurements (I didn't want to redo the shims) - the engine was a lot quieter but still had a ticking noise. It was quieter tho. The engine always had a ticking noise. I suspect that the keeper was failing. When i put the thinner valve shim in that allowed enough clearance for the keeper to continue to break, until failure. That is why i ordered a valve, new keeper, springs & the spring retaining washer.
Another hypothesis is that the valve stretched.it doesnt appear elongated.
Valve seat was looked at by a trusted motorcycle mechanic and deemed okay.
My tensioner functioned okay - the chain was tight when I removed the head. I may still get a chain tho.
Should have parts in a couple of weeks for lapping and reassembly.
Thx!

[bowyer2002]

Here is the tensioner when I removed it.
The tensioner spring was 69mm +/-.

[Mustang]

A cording to your earlier picture of the timing Mark's.....

YOUR CAM TIMING IS OFF !
It probably has something to do with the ticking noise you mention
As well as probably is the reason a keeper broke
I would look at all12 valves closely
T1 has to line up with ignition pickup
And the two cam arrows MUST  be parallel to the head surface and pointing directly at each .
Any thing else and the timing is off.
It will run but not right or have the giddy up it's supposed to

[bowyer2002]

I appreciate all of the information, suggestions, etc. regarding my Tiger!

@Mustang - the bike never impressed me with it's speed/torque/power - maybe the timing was always off? I don't know the entire mechanical history on the bike, other than it was ridden by a college buddy's father who had passed away it sat in their basement un-ridden for 12 yrs then I bought it.

This topic may be paused for a couple of weeks until my parts arrive and then getting time to re-assemble it.

@seevy & @threepot - all of the other valve shims were in the 2.50-2.70mm range - so this one was significantly thinner BUT still thicker than the allowable 2mm minimum.

This is the first multi-cylinder motorcycle engine I've been inside of however I have rebuilt/modified several air cooled VWs & lawnmowers, timing belts, rebuilt birfield axles. etc. and do ALL of my own automotive repairs.
Wrenching isn't foreign to me but I do learn something EVERY time. Thanks for some of this education!

[threepot]

Don t expect sportsbike straight line speed,but they don't lack power of torque. These engines will pull from low revs regardless of the gear it's in. There's not much better imo. If it's not been used for 12yrs? Maybe a carb service is needed? Or at least run some Seafoam or similar through?

[bowyer2002]

Carbs were cleaned and rebuilt and then even rejetted. Stock jets were pretty lean.
After sitting 12yrs they WERE terribly gunked up tho!

[ssevy]

 Once you've resolved the valve issue, you might want to change your thread title to better reflect the contents for future searches?

[98TIGA]

What a bummer! My heart sure goes out to you.

Just when I was thinking about delving into a valve adjustment myself (last done at 15k service, bike's now at 45k), I think you've convinced me I ought to let it alone.

[bowyer2002]

@98TIGA - the adjustment itself isn't too difficult IF you read thru a few instructional posts which help a lot before diving in.
My issue was there weather or not I did the adjustment. Thankfully it happened close to home and when my parts get here I am looking forward to re-assembly.
Good luck!