scraping noise from rear swingarm I HATE CHAINS

[Feisty]

Hello all. I have introduced  myself and my new steamer a few weeks ago in the intro section.
Quick recap. My 1st triumph 32,000km  tiger 900 not used in 6 years.

All issues mostly solved (thanks to this forum) except for a chain type rattle/scraping that occurs when riding the bike. Especially bad under front braking.  I checked the manual and parts diagrams and found the chain slider under the lower section of the chain was missing its rubber/nylon.
A new one was purchased (along with a new rubbing strip  (backorder)) and fitted. 
After a 30km ride the rubbing sound was still there and a third of the new chain slider material had worn off.
I then put a mate on the pillion seat and went for a ride. A combined weight of 160kg made the noise disappear completely.
I gather it is a ride height issue affecting the path of the chain.  This is my first chain driven bike in many years and the first with rubbing strips and long suspension travel etc. I really don't have a clue.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated

Cheers Mark

[Feisty]

another pic

[Mustang]

You need to run the chain with at least a minimum of 1 1/4 inch free play .
Your chain is set way too tight .
With the bike on side stand set the free play at the above and you will be happy happy

[Feisty]

You need to run the chain with at least a minimum of 1 1/4 inch free play .
Your chain is set way too tight .
With the bike on side stand set the free play at the above and you will be happy happy

Thanks for that. I had a mate sit on it off the stand and checked it. It was about an inch up and down of free play.   Some research I have done suggests the position of the axle cam makes a difference.   My axle is at 7 o'clock (LHS) .  I just checked the chain as you suggested on the side stand and there is about 2 inches of free play.

[Mustang]

A new rubbing strip on the swingarm will make a difference  for excessive chain noise also

[Feisty]

Thanks I have one of them on backorder.

I backed off the spring from 3/4 tight to one quarter tight and the issue has disappeared thankfully.

Now to change the fork gators for yhe new ones that have just arrived.  Is this job as easy as 4 bolts and drop the forks out? I've never attempted it before.

[Mustang]

After you remove the front wheel and brake calipers and front fender

They will slide right out .

Now would also be a good time to change the fork oil too

[Feisty]

Thanks Mustang. I had the calipers, guard and wheel off recently to paint the forks so I can handle that. So it is just a matter of unbolting the fork tubes after that. Excellent. I gather they can only go back pointing straight so I should be able to manage that. I'll do some research on changing the fork oil. The p.o. changed the springs to a white power set just before he stopped riding it. Fork oil is cheap though so it is well worth doing.