Front wheel noise

[ssevy]

Thanks for all of that!
Just what I needed!
I'll look everything over, but I suspect it was my foot on the pedal for two reasons:
1- the headwinds were so strong for the last 3 hours that I was tucked as low as possible, in a position in which I never ride, and my tall boots don't have much flex, so it is reasonable to think the pads were in contact with the rotor just enough to generate heat.
2- those headwinds felt very similar to a dragging brake, so I wouldn't have necessarily noticed. I was doing long uninterrupted sections between tank fill ups, so there was no opportunity to see or smell anything since the wind was blowing everything behind me.

When I mounted the new tires and rebuilt the calipers, I went over everything except this return holes, so I'll definitely check those out.
I have the Honda part number for the caliper seals. Anyone know the Honda parts for the rear mc?

Thanks Sin!


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[bemusedinsojo]

Holy cow you are in my neck of the woods. I am in Chinle on the Navajo Nation. The wind hasn't stopped blowing for three weeks or more. If you come back this way on your return (1 hour north of I40) I have food and a place to crash and four beers left in the fridge.
I hope you got to stop at that big ol' hole in the ground on the way to Flagstaff. And in Winslow. I spent my 20s there drinking 50 cent beers until I floated. Lots of cool stuff to see if you can brave the wind this time of year.

[bemusedinsojo]

BTW I lost my rear going down a forest service road near SLC. I was dragging the brake and it faded. You are in some high mountains and maybe dragging also. Just remove the rear pedal and lower it a bit. Riding boots make you drag it.

[Nick Calne]

Move the pedal lower.  There's a good bit of advice.

[Sin_Tiger]

Move the pedal lower.  There's a good bit of advice.

That's not a bad idea, considering how you're used to using the rear brake.

When you put the prevailing riding conditions in the frame like that it becomes a bit more plausible. Free    and hospitality 

[ssevy]

Didn't think the rear brake pedal was adjustable? Will definitely do that if it's possible.
I arrived at my daughter's okay, although negotiating LA traffic without a rear brake was stressful. It was hard to maintain a large gap ahead for a longer stopping distance, as cars kept jumping in the space.
I found the master cylinder piston and seal kit in San Diego, and some Honda seals for the rear caliper here in LA. My wife is flying out to join us tomorrow, and she is bringing the correct 3/8 bits for the caliper job, my specially-modified Kelly clamp for removing the master cylinder circlip, my red rubber grease, and I borrowed a torque wrench for the job here locally.
Probably tear it apart tomorrow night and then see just what I am up against?
Thanks for all the helpful info- it's tough not having a factory manual and my tool collection here, and my tool roll does not include everything needed for a master cylinder and caliper overhaul, so the specific info on fastener sizes and torques was essential Sin!
I'll keep you posted.


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[Sin_Tiger]

Glad you made it one piece  that's admirable in what I image was dreadful traffic.

Someone needs to carry the hairdryer 

[bemusedinsojo]

A brave thing indeed. LA traffic is brutal.

[ssevy]

I got the rear caliper apart last night, and the seals were melted into a single dark band that had partially squeezed out of the top of each cylinder. I was able to twist the pistons and get them out, and now I need to get a round wire brush to clean up the grooves. The rubber boots both survived, but they need replacing when I get back home.
I have previously rebuilt both the front master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder, but not the rear. I was able to get the snap ring and intake elbow out after much wiggling. The o-ring should be replaced - does anyone know the size?
The electric switch at the top end I assume is threaded? In any case, it wouldn't budge, and I didn't want to break it off.
The lower shackle for the pedal and the rubber boot both came off with no issues. I couldn't believe those nuts were not rusted on tight!
The snap ring hasn't surrendered yet after several tries, as there is some corrosion on the bottom side of the plunger cap. I couldn't get a replacement locally, so I am being very careful with the snap ring.
The pedal height adjustment is the shackle at the end of the plunger rod, and unfortunately, I was already at the pedal's lowest setting, so there is no more adjustment left.
Usually I have my two repair manuals at hand, so I am flying by the seat of my pants on this one. Hopefully grab a cheap drill and some wire brushes today and maybe a different pair of snap ring pliers. Haven't even looked at how bad the rotor is warped - if the brake works and there is some pulsing in the pedal I can live with it until I get home to my own garage and tools.


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[Sin_Tiger]

Getting somewhere with it then. Rear switch being solid often means it's never been off, heating the body with a hot air gun or hairdryer (see I knew it would be handy  ) can do the trick.

I use some scrapers made from old hacksaw blades for cleaning out the grooves, if you have access to a grinder or disc cutter it might save you a lot of effort. I usually won't use anything harsher than Scotchbrite in the bore, I don't expect you'll have one available but you might be able to improvise by cutting up some pads mounted on a bolt with a couple of washers and a nut, stick it in a drill and it could do the job.

The section is a front master but essentially the same components. I don't think there should be an O ring in there, unless what you're seeing is the remains of the dust cover / boot.

At a later date, you could cut a few more threads into the rod / trim the length to get you a bit more boot clearance, I think it's just a standard M8 thread.

[ssevy]

Thanks Sin!
I got an assortment of small copper brushes and used those with a drill to clean the bores and the seal grooves, and they worked well. I bought a cheap pair of snap ring pliers from Harbor Freight, and they actually worked okay to remove both snap rings. The o-ring I couldn't source, so the old one went back into the intake side of the master cylinder. The rebuild kit had new rubber parts, piston and spring, and I really took care when stretching the new rubber seal into its place on the base of the plunger. Used a pair of needle nose pliers to stretch it over the end and then slide it into place.
System is all back together now, and I bought some Motul rbf600 fluid to put in. A CVS pharmacy gave me a couple of small plastic syringes, but they don't have rubber seals, so no help in refilling. I usually use a big syringe and fill through the bleeder screw uphill to the reservoir, and the air naturally is going uphill. When the syringe didn't work today, I tried filling the reservoir and bleeding through the caliper banjo bolt, but no luck yet. Hoping to find a better syringe when stores open tomorrow.


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[Sin_Tiger]

  I forgot about that O ring 

It isn't available separately and I haven't been able to come up with a size after digging around, I was going to take a spare apart to measure it but since you've managed to get it all back together  Good progress.

[ssevy]

Found a big syringe tool at Autozone, and brakes are all bled and finished. Great firm pedal, and no pulsing when I spin the wheel on the center stand. In real use, this may change, but I think I am good to go.
Have a half bottle of the expensive Motul fluid, so may change out the fronts even though they have new Amsoil fluid in them.
Hate to waste $27 brake fluid


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[Sin_Tiger]

  hope all the extra work and expense didn't spoil the family get together and the ride home is a bit more enjoyable weather wise and trouble free 

[ssevy]

Thanks so much for those kind thoughts! We had perfect weather and a great time, and aside from chasing parts, the actual work on the bike was probably no more than a couple of hours, so did not interfere with our plans.
Going to take it easier on the way east. Probably just set a destination and let the app route me. Too frustrating doing all of those carefully constructed routes beforehand and then having the app crash again.
Going to stick to Scenic or Google Maps and be done with it. I'll wait and get my iPhone camera fixed after the ride, as apparently the vibrations being mounted on the bars killed the camera focus mechanism.
Hopefully any wind will be at my back this time!


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