Now to put it all back together

[Beernard]

Gday Russ.
Its quite a few years ago, I have relatively no memory left, but I have been down this road (I think!). Please check this. I had a key cut but the locksmith explained that the seat lock was shorter than the ignition lock (he's a biker). I took it home anyway (of course!) but it didn't work in the ignition. Could be the locksmith didn't have a clue, but this was my experience. My homework was the pain of removing the ignition switch. I wonder now if I could have taken the whole bike in and had the locksmith do his magic? I also suppose there are locksmiths and then there are locksmiths!
I hope my memory is as bad as I suspect, and you have a win. If my experience proves correct (dubious!), I think the "whole bike to the shop" may be a less painful option, if possible.
This is a bit gnarly, but in good faith. Worth a question and maybe saves you some time.
Regards,

[Madruss]

I was thinking of going down that pathway Beernard, if worse comes to worse.
A fairly knowledgeable motorcycling relative of mine suggested a certain locksmith in the city, who is a motorcyclist (that's a bonus) has the knowledge to cut keys on the VIN #
So, here's hoping 

[Sin_Tiger]

I hope my memory is as bad as I suspect, and you have a win. If my experience proves correct (dubious!), I think the "whole bike to the shop" may be a less painful option, if possible.

Good news, your memory isn't as suspect as you think. If I remember correctly, there are 5 wafers in the ignition lock barrel and only three in the tank and seat and panniers if you have them.

A decent locksmith should be able to get the coding for a cut, there's a lot of fancy tools out there nowadays.

[Madruss]

If I remeber correctly, there are 5 wafers in the ignition lock barrel and only three in the tank and seat and panniers if you have them.

A decent locksmith should be able to get the coding for a cut, there's a lot of fancy tools out there nowadays.

Great information on here, the best place to gain "the knowleadge"

[ghulst]

Wouldn't Triumph be able to do something if you provide them with the VIN?

[Madruss]

Closest Triumph Dealer is 170klm away 
I've never dealt with them either!
How to prove ownership, long distance too.
 I've heard of some suspect characters spinning some "Grimms fairy tale" stories to gain access to property, so I'll have to try to contact the one in Brisbane Qld to see how to go about it.

[ghulst]

I'd at least take a shot at it.

[Sin_Tiger]

Memory not as good as I thought. Tank barrel (not pictured) has 5 wafers + a retention slide. I think the attached was an ignition barrel but I forgot to change the file name 

Don't know if these will be of any help.

Tip, if you decide on taking a lock apart and haven't done it before, do it with your hands and the parts inside a big clear plastic bag. 

[Madruss]

I've had some key barrel stuff in pieces previously, 
Also a transmission controller with multiple microswitches out my old motor grader
Thanks for the insight but I'll go to the locksmith armed with the VIn # & hope for the best 

[Madruss]

Found what I thought were a pair of mirrors but ended up being two lefts. 
So, after digging through the "scrap pile" of handy bits, I managed to build a righthand mirror

[Sin_Tiger]

I prefer to stick with the round originals, they work well for me and if you smack one on a trip they can be swapped not being handed.

[Madruss]

For $5 au the pair   

[Madruss]

Currently (Sunday morning down in OZ) in the process of transferring the HB crashbars from the Calyso blue'92 to the black 94.
I noticed, what appears to be an oil balancer/crossover pipe around the oil filter on the 92. It appears to be deleted on the 94.
Any ideas  [attach id=18828]

[Madruss]

I prefer to stick with the round originals, they work well for me and if you smack one on a trip they can be swapped not being handed.

Fair enough, the only ones I had were after market chrome japanese "will fits"
I liked '80's Kawasaki style black ones so these were as close to them

[Sin_Tiger]

I'm not 100% certain but I believe it's an external oil cooler bypass link, the later engines had them internally.

While you're on your hands and knees    it's worth the effort to take the sump off and give everything a good clean, you'll be surprised how mucky it'll be. You'll be changing the oil and filter no doubt so it's not a lot of extra work, the only tricky bit is getting the rear middle screw out, as it sits above the exhaust cross over.

Check the state of the oil pressure switch cable / connector, they have a hard life, it might be worth making a short link wire with a more accessible / protected connector.