Now to put it all back together

[Madruss]

Well the bars are a bit more heavy duty than I'd imagined. 
I'll look for some replacements

[Sin_Tiger]

I suspect a lot of replacements will be thinner wall than the original 

[Madruss]

Gleaned some information from a workmates son (welder/boilermaker) who suggested applying a moderate heat, carefully then work it slowly, taking care of the final alignment. 
Will give it a go tomorrow arvo 

[Sin_Tiger]

Keep the torch moving all around and don't let it get more than dull cherry red. Use a longer tube over the bar end to give you more control rather than hitting it 

[Madruss]

We've got it halfway there today.
Definitely no old "Harley style" mechanical repair going on heavy dull instruments   

[London_Phil]

We've got it halfway there today.
Definitely no old "Harley style" mechanical repair going on heavy dull instruments   

As the owner of an old Harley, I resemble that remark....

[Madruss]

As the owner of an old Harley, I resemble that remark....

So it's not a cold chisel & a 2 lb hammer as I was lead to believe 

[Beernard]

Gday Russ,

First up, I love "fixing". Not good at it myself, but it may be worth contemplating "replacing". My bars got bent and I was led into the world of "maybe there's something better". Personal choice, but the originals were too low and too swept for me. I ended up with a combination of 1" risers and motocross bars that are higher, flatter and more forward. Suits me. There is a thread about these somewhere here. As I say, suits me. Not everyone, for sure. I am just south of Port Macquarie, drop in if you are going by. More importantly, all the best in your efforts with one of these great bikes. All the best.

Bern.

[Madruss]

Yes, been in 2 minds of which way to go.
Grabbed my neighbor/cousins butane torch in his shed & had a go yesterday, realigning to within 5mm.
Continued again this afternoon with success within "tolerance" 
As my dear departed Mum would say "galloping horses won't notice it" 
A quick rub with emery tape & a coat of satin black, once dry ready to re assemble in the morning.
Was thinking of attending the motorcycle only Swap-meet at Laidley Qld run by the Historic Motorcycle Club of Queensland but a high percentage extensive rainfall, I'll wait till i hear a weather report in the morning

[Madruss]

Not always sunny here

[Madruss]

My shed is so small I have to step outside to change my mind

[Madruss]

As the jobs dwindle down & before I refit the fairing & screen, I thought "how long since the brake have been bled "
Removing the master cylinder cap was a challenge
Employing an impact screwdriver (a neccesity when you worked a '70s Honda) wasn't a success untill heat from a hair dryer around the outside gave some joy. One released but the other just wouldn't have any part of it.
Drilling the countersunk top of the screw out of the lid was the next successful step to remove the cap. Tiny aligator style vice grips assissted with removal of the remainder of the screw. 
The opaque nature of the fluid made my assessment correct with regard to service history.
A thorough bleeding of both calipers gave me a sense safety for the first trip. 

[Madruss]

I could see an ooze of fuel around my recent repair on the tank, so off it came once more to investigate. Removing the tank once I found an area which I had previously spread JB weld required some attention around threaded insert.
Fingers crossed this timeYou cannot see attachments on this board.

[London_Phil]

I could see an ooze of fuel around my recent repair on the tank, so off it came once more to investigate. Removing the tank once I found an area which I had previously spread JB weld required some attention around threaded insert.
Fingers crossed this timeYou cannot see attachments on this board.

I've posted before about the very small margin of error available on those tank fitments.
Many years ago, I bought a crash damaged tank and cut it open. I think I posted them on the forum, but there is a very small amount of plastic surrounding the captive nuts. Proceed with caution...
In fact, look at my profile pic for the ones at the fuel tank...

[Sin_Tiger]

If master cylinder screws don't come out without a fight, I just take the master cylinder off the bars, here's how I look at it:-

If I haven't changed the fluid and the screws are tight, God know when it was last done, so I'm going to be into a complete strip down as the piston boot will almost certainly be toast anyway.
Taking anything heavier than a JIS screwdriver to them while they are on the bars is asking for trouble. If I get frustrated a big hammer is my calming tool and that means a real risk of bending the bars.
The cylinder is not flat and level, so trying to even get a square whack at it hard enough and guaranteed the bars will move with the risk of damage that poses.
Trying to drill out a screw in alloy is not easy at the best of times, on wobbly bars and at odd angles just make it harder and there's always the risk of getting fine swarf in the fluid which will gravitate straight into the piston / bore.

Not trying to lecture anyone, just explaining my internal risk assessment process.