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Daysie's Diary

Started by Lee337, June 04, 2022, 11:31:52 AM

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Been in the garage cleaning up a few bits, starting with Daysies rear and her brakes. Starting off with the brakes, I've removed the front brakes, an easy task. They're in pretty good order, and the calipers have cleaned up well. Before removing the hydraulic lines, I thought I'd pump the brakes to try to make removing the pistons a little easier. I think I may have a battle on my hands though as only one of the eight pistons actually moved. I have a sealey brake piston removal tool, but from past experience, it's pretty much useless. So as I revently bought an air compressor, I'll try compressed air to remove them. If that fails, I'm probably going to visit my tame Triumoh mechanic to see what he can do. I'm going to replace all the seals anyway, but if necessary, I'll have to replace the pistons as well.

Now on to the back brakes. Taking the caliper off was easy, again onlyy two bolts & they undid wilt little effort, but that's where the fun started. The brake line runs effectively insiude the chain guard and there's a plastic cover, held by two screws, both of which were seized. Lots of Plusgas, a pair of molegrips and 40 minutes later, the cover was off. Next up, there are two P clamps which hold the brake line against the chain guard. Both bolts are seixed and not easy to get to without removing the chain guard. There are also four bolts holding the chain guard on, two of which are seized. More Plusgas and that is being left to soak overnight.

Meanwhile, I decided to remove the rear brake master cylinder. I'd noticed when I got Daysie home that the rear brake pedal didn't move and it now turns out the clevis pin that attaches the brake pedal to the master cylinder plunger is... Yes, you guessed it, seized. More Plusgas. On top of which, the brake switch fell apart in my hand when I tried to remove it.

By this time, I'd been in the garage for around 3 hours, not entirely on Daysie as Tabitha needed a bit of TLC, so I gave a few more bolts the Plusgas treatment and retired for the day with a beer.


No matter how smart you are you can never convince someone stupid that they are stupid.


Just a few pics from this weeks work on Daysie.
No matter how smart you are you can never convince someone stupid that they are stupid.


Callipers that are marginal like that, I throw them in a bucket of diesel for as long as I can leave them, or remember where I left the bucket  :icon_rolleyes:

Real tough ones get stuck in the old powder coating oven set at about 100 C for an hour or so, has only failed me once  :icon_evil: on that occasion the pistons weren't going to be saveable so it was "Ye Olde Maritime Hot Spanner" grind a bit of flat bar to fit inside the piston and weld it to the piston inner, let it cool for a couple of minutes before levering it, hasn't failed me yet  :bad
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint


Good thinking Sin...

Got some diesel lying around somewhere & if not then I've also got some paraffin I bought last year for the greenhouse heater. That and an old washing up bowl may do the trick.

Ah, found the diesel
No matter how smart you are you can never convince someone stupid that they are stupid.


Good call @Sin_Tiger, a couple of days soaking in diesel * nit only did the pistons come out of the rear caliper fairly easily, the caliper also looks nice & clean.

Will post up some pics at the weekend.
No matter how smart you are you can never convince someone stupid that they are stupid.


Why this usually works, unless the pistons are rusted solid, is that old rubber seals that are hard have perished and will be easily softened by the diesel. The only thing to watch out for with the two pot sliding calipers is that the rubber seals for the carrier sliding pins will also be affected and will need replaced, unless you remove them before hand. With the four pots the internal O rings can be affected but most seal kits for those usually include new O rings.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint


A coupe of days soaking and all is now clean - I don't smell of diesel, the oil under my finger nails has pretty much gone and I no longer have to sleep in the spare room because I smell like a 1960's garage monkey.

As for Daysie, she now has clean brake calipers after soaking them in diesel for 3 days. I've managed to get all the pistons out with no damage and although some of them are a bit 'crusry' around the top, where the dust seals sat, I'll give them a good clean with some fine wire wool. As I don't have to replace any of them it saves me around £120 to spend on other bits.

The rear subframe, mirror brackets and the magnesium dash intrument surround went off to the powder coaters on Saturday and should be back with me in 3 - 4 weeks. He's quoted me £142 which I didn't think was too bad.

In other news, I've removed the chain guard which was posing a problem with a couple of seized bolts, with a combination of Plusgas and mole grips. The clevis pin that attached the rear brake pedal to the rear master cylinder proved problematic. I had to remove the whole assembly and put it in the vice to try to free it up. Countless hours spent with a combination of Plusgas, pliers, molegrips and finally a hammer didn't budge it. Finally heat from my blowtorch and the hammer freed it up with no damage other than to said clevis pin.

The air box has also been removed after a fight to get it loose. It turns out Haynes Manuals do have their uses. the early Daytonas have a hidden bolt securing the front of the airbox to the frame. Another example of Triump's design mastery here, the bolt is tucked away behind the radiator and would have all but been impossible had I not already removed the radiator.

I was expecting to see three badly perished vacuum hoses running from the throttlw bodies to the IACV (for the uninitiated, the Idle Air Control Valve, which I've seen referenced as ICAV IVAC IAV and stepper motor in varoius places), and I wasn't surprised - at least with the state of the vacuum hoses, but unlike Tallulah Tiger, there was no IACV to be seen.

Turns out the IACV on early models is not sat above the throttle bodies as in later models but tucked under the throttle bodies behind the clutch actuator arm. Who knew. Looks like it's going to be a PITA to get to but as at least 4 of the 6 hose connectors are not connected and two of them seem to be bunged up with crud, it's got to come out to be checked & cleaned. I have a copy of the Triumph service manual on the PC so I can see the laptop heading for the garage when it comes to this piece of work, that or the printer's going to get a hammering.

The remainder of Saturday was cleaning stuff. I had some Rubber & Vinyl cleaner which I used successfully on Tabitha to cklean all the wiring loom and assorted plastic bits so did the same for Daysie. While I have yet to check any of the electrical system, at least everything looks clean now. I also used some parts washer solution and a rag to clean up the frame, engine and any other bits I could get to. I've still got cleaning to do, namely the wheels and those hard to get to bits at the back of the engine.

While cleaning the engine, quite a bit of the engine powder coating came off. Hardly surprising as it was sitting for so long. Most of it was around the front where antifreeze from the leaking radiator got to it. The water pump housing and the housing where the top hose goes in to the engine is also a bit ropey. It was also peeling off on the underside. Not sure what i'm going to do about this yet if anything as it's mostly covered by fairings, but as is my way, I won't be happy leaving it, so I'll have to clean it up & find some sort of engine paint just to tidy it up

Any suggestions that doesn't require removing the engine are greatly received.

On order and currently awaiting delivery is a socket big enough to remove teh rear wheel. It's a big bugger, 46mm and the torque setting for the nut is something over 100Nm, so as with the front sprocket nut, I think the torque gun is going to be let out of it's case, but that's for another time.

No matter how smart you are you can never convince someone stupid that they are stupid.