Recommended for '96 Tiger

[Sin_Tiger]

It's worth changing the shaft seals for the clutch push rod and the gear change shaft, wrap some lecky tape around the gearchange shaft splines when refitting the sprocket cover to prevent damaging the new seal. There is another O ring on the selector cross shaft but unless you see signs of leakage from there it's best left alone as there is a risk of bits coming loose inside the box trying to change it in situ.

Yup    the earlier steel ones are better, they will handle more weight, they're easier to clamp on adaptor plates for top boxes etc. and they can be repaired more easily. There were two versions, one had a monkey face plate with a captive nut on the front legs to allow screwing side racks onto, the more common one was just a single hole plate. Both will only sensibly fit the Steamer.

The "plastic" ones are actually a five part cast alloy item, the top plate was also used for the T300's with different legs. There are hex screws under the plastic plugs.

Before you ask, the crash bars are Hepco Becker items, Triumph never made crash bars for the Steamer.

[Beernard]

Gday Aeschere,

Looks like you are giving the darling a nice freshen-up. I agree with Bill about the front sprocket. An air compressor with an impact wrench (rattle gun here) and socket works perfectly. Quick and easy.

Good luck with it all.

[Madruss]

Gday Aeschere,

Looks like you are giving the darling a nice freshen-up. I agree with Bill about the front sprocket. An air compressor with an impact wrench (rattle gun here) and socket works perfectly. Quick and easy.

Good luck with it all.

I agree, the "rattle gun" would be my choice

[Aeschere]

Thanks for that information!

About the seals, you mean nr 24 in Clutch and nr 19 in Engine covers?

About the bolt. We have used a wrench without an "arm" to try and loosen it. So, a direct attachment to the socket and the wrench. We even lengthed the arm for a better leaver, but all we managed was to torque the wrench itself.
We tried heating it as well and used an electrical impact driver. All without success.
The next attempt will involve a compressor powered impact driver and perhaps a bit more heat and brute hammering 

[Aeschere]

Well, it took a bit longer then expected due to busy schedules, but the Tiger has a new chain and sprockets.
Whoever designed this bike, should get fired There are so many things that just doesn't make sense but that is for another time.

It turned out not to be to much of a problem. The guy I was with had a good air compression rattle gun that did the job in under 20 seconds. After that, it was just business as usual. The front sprocket required some convincing to get on the shaft, the chain breaker broke, screws were misplaced and the crash bars almost forced a bike crash trying to push them back into place.
While we were at it, we also replaced the seal behing the front sprocket and the clutch shaft seal.

One thing that I did notice is that the chain slider almost needs replacing. The one that is on there is hardly 1000km old which seems to be a bit fast. How long do you do with your sliders? Are there any alternatives that I can use instead of the original rubber?

The bike is finally in great working order. All that remains to be done now is cosmetically and/or non-essential. I have been riding her several times a week and this Sunday we have the season opening of the Triumph club. This promises to be a good year :)

[Sin_Tiger]

If you're reffering to the small under chain guide bolted to the chassis rather than the one on the swing arm, then yes they can be short lived if the chain is set a bit too slack. Many of us have tried making blocks that bolt onto the original steel plate, many have been quite succesful, nylon / PTFE shaped block seems to work. Search and you'll find the info in this section.

Perfect timing 

[93TigerBill-2016]

Aeschere,
I've just made my third "Chain Rubbing Block" from UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene), known by various names eg 'Delrin'.
I effectively duplicated the original, by cutting a channel in the centre of a duplicate-size block.
Found out that even an NOS block (was only able to find two in existence in the World!) has failed in the packaging, so no luck there.
There's another thread on this matter.
Good to see progress!
Bill

[fishnbiker]

Is there some "bracketry" to lower your pegs available? 
I'd rather have a look at some before I attempt to fabricate some.

The original "Mustang" pegs look like this. I was lucky enough to get him to fab up a pair for my '91 R 1000 GS  also ...

[Madruss]

A larger footpeg is great but doesn't appear to be any lower.
Removing the rubber "top blocks" which I've done, (same bolt on style as the Yamaha 660 Te'ne're') achieved the same effect.
The next step in modification for a tall, rider I should say, long legged rider, is to increase the seat height, hence straightening ones knees marginally!
By filling in the "Saddle shaped cutout" obviously designed for those "vertically challenged" who would have a terrible time manhandling these tall top-heavy beasts, would be the next step.
Now with the Calypso parts bike in the shed & having a spare seat, I'll have to locate an upholsterer to remodel it.

[Beernard]

You can steal 12mm by drilling a higher mounting hole. I posted here. Years have gone by, didn't break. Would like another 20mm, but hasn't happened yet!

[fishnbiker]

Looks really nice.

If you use a socket and long bar directly, a lot of force is lost due to the angles involved and the risk of the socket slipping off is greater.

Use a short extension supported at the same centrre height as the output sprocket shaft, this allows a straighter push on the torque bar without any angluar force component on the socket.

Don't be afraid to heat the sprocket nut, I'm sure you'll be replacing the shaft seal at the same time after going to all that effort. Ox/Ac is best as you can get enough heat onto a precise area quickly, MAP gas cans aren't as hot, fast enough or precise, give the socket a couple of big whacks while the sprocket & nut are hot. A word of caution when removing the old seal, go easy to prevent damaging the integral seal on the bearing behind the shaft seal.

Another more complicated mod that eases all maintenance there-after is an idea from the late MUSTANG (blessed be his name). I cut the sprocket cover off the oil reservoir portion. The clutch slave stays with the top for a quick access to the gear without all the other rigamarole you went through. Shown here with MUSTANG lowered pegs. I can give more info if interested.

[Aeschere]

Oh, that sure looks interesting, not only or me, but for other owners as well.
How is the oil kept into the engine?

[fishnbiker]

Oh, that sure looks interesting, not only or me, but for other owners as well.
How is the oil kept into the engine?

A magic moment of inspiration on the part of Mustang, cutting the reservoir cover from the spoke cover & clutch cover/mount. There was some fabricating & welding involved to make up a new filler spout & dipstick, but I love a fun challenge. A quick photo here & more when I get back home in a few days. Will have to dig around for more.

[Aeschere]

I did 613km (about 381 miles) this weekend. First time ever that I did a multi-day trip with a bike. The Tiger performed great and never let me down. No leaks, stutters or other hic-ups.

Learned a ton as well. The saddle is crap after about 200km, riding with jeans underneath motorcycle pants is a stupid idea, gloves that aren't to small are a benefit and having some kind of luggage option can help.

Will definitely do another trip soon. We have a Triumph event in July which I will certainly attend. If any of you is in the Netherlands, or feels like making a trip, perhaps we can meet up at Trumpet 2023.

Oh, one thing that did require some attention were loose handlebar mounting bolts. Apparently, the bottom bolts of the clamp were loose. Never noticed it before but since I have the grace of a hippo, getting on the bike with a bag strapped to the back, I lent on the bars more than usual and found myself snugging the tank. Fortunately, the bar was tight enough to allow proper steering without any danger but not something I was enjoying very much.

Oh, and why, why!?, do people think it is a good idea to pull up at a traffic light and then slam the brakes to a full stop because they need to switch lanes? Good to know my brakes work, and luckily the brakes of the car behind me worked as well. That was the one time that the handlebar came down and I had to continue riding like a failed café racer.

So, in short, I did a trip, was great, learned a ton and will do again.

[Sin_Tiger]

Well done 

They are a good tool for touring once you get things sorted for comfort and practicality 

July