Opening up the stock silencer?

[smoove b]

Does anyone have experience with modifying the stock silencer which is a bit too effective. Although I hate LOUD bikes, I would like to hear a bit of the triple rythm, without having to re-tune the bike.



Also, what size allen rotates the concentic chain adjusters?



Thanks guys.

Smoove B, prowling in Milwaukee

[noivson]

Being of tight ways, I have.  Using a 18" rod ground to a point. Two 5/8" holes in the center bore of muffler. Removed end cap and punched 4-3/16" holes in the back plate. It is louder but not offending. Quieter than most aftermarket cans. Response to throttle seems quicker. No more 'run-on' upon coasting either. Only once is 2 years has anyone asked about the 'different' sound my Tiger makes. Can be toned down by inserting sheet metal screws in the back plate of muffler. Not noticable by looking at it either.  



No changes since mods, in looks or hotspots...

[georover1]

HUH?

I'm glad you have done this and it sounds like it was a success but I'm lost.

Im usually able to visualize things better than this and maybe i need to remove my end cap again and have a look, but could you explain that again. I would like to do this to my can but have always worried about where, how many, and what size holes need to be drilled.

Thanks

[Guest]

HUH?

I'm glad you have done this and it sounds like it was a success but I'm lost.

Im usually able to visualize things better than this and maybe i need to remove my end cap again and have a look, but could you explain that again. I would like to do this to my can but have always worried about where, how many, and what size holes need to be drilled.

Thanks

Me too.

[noivson]

Mufflers have baffles to channel the flow, quiet noise and produce backpressure. Restrictive in a word. Open up what seems to be the natural path. I'll check out the dia. of the openings that I've tried. The good part is once you remove the end cap, going too far with the smaller holes isn't the end. When you think you have gone too far, just insert sheet metal screws into a few of the holes. Can't be seen once you button things back up.  I'm thinking a couple of 5/8" holes down the 'throat' Rod was made from an old foundry jaeger....'Redi-rod' will work.  Smaller ones in the end cap were just from a center punch.

[Stretch]

Here's a guy who completely gutted his factory silencer...



http://www.triumphrat.net/modules.php?s ... php&page=1 (http://www.triumphrat.net/modules.php?set_albumName=album1026&op=modload&name=Photo_Album&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=1)

[TigerTrax]

Well... I've donethat on my '98 Steamer....



You need a LONG  21"+, 5/8" steel rod; Ground to a point.

A hefty hand sledge hammer; Perhaps a 1/2" drill with a 5/8"

drill bit  24" long ....



I did not remove the end caps... those stainless rivets are a bitch

to grind.



When I got done ... it was a liitle more responsive... but not worth the effort..

[smoove b]

Thanks for the tips guys, sounds like the info I needed.



Now what about that concentric chain adjuster?



I imagine there was a Factory supplied tool for that, but I bought mine used.



What do you use?  thanx  smoove

[Guest]

Now what about that concentric chain adjuster?



I imagine there was a Factory supplied tool for that, but I bought mine used.



What do you use?  thanx  smoove

It's just a big Allen key.

And, if you leave the spindle done up tight, you only need one to adjust the chain. Because they'll both turn together from one side when the clamps are released.

[iansoady]

Now what about that concentric chain adjuster?



What do you use?  thanx  smoove

I have a drain plug key which IIRC is 12mm one end 14 the other, so is nice & easy to carry.