Just checking on fork oil change process.

[Stuie]

Hi fellas,

I've got a 97 with spongy front. Picked up some oil and just wanna make sure I do this right since I don't have a book and I think I changed the fork oil on my old BSA lightning once but don't remember exactly.

Since I don't have the centerstand I need to borrow a lift right?

Jack it up, pop the drain screws at the bottom of the fork with a little bucket to catch the oil and compress the shocks until they are dry?

re-insert the lower screw and pop the top cap watching out for the spring pressure?

I saw in a previous post to drop the front end until the forks bottom out and fill the oil to some measurement from the top?

Does anyone have an idea of the oil capacity rather than measuring? Like 2 cups of oil per etc.?

Replace springs and cap?

Also, I have read to put spacers in to stiffen the shock. Question, is that a purchased part or a local machine shop special made thing? Also, if not purchased, would the material be aluminum or some grade of steel?

Thanks for confirming or denying my thought process!

Stu

[JetdocX]

Spongy forks are probably not an oil problem unless the seal are leaking as indicated by oil on your fork.

Spongy forks (and I must admit mine are, too, but not for long) are a result of cheap and low capacity springs.

You probably need a higher load spring for your fork.

[iansoady]

Although I don't have a steamer, I think the forks are similar to my Girly - if so don't whatever you do try to undo the big hexagon at the bottom of the forks. This holds the damping tube in and you'll end up with the whole lot turning.

Unlike your old A65 and my Velo, there are no drain screws - you have to take the fork legs out and invert them to drain the oil.

I would suggest you invest in a manual - the Haynes ones are cheap enough and good enough for this sort of job.

[blacktiger]

For oil level this thread might help http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,3664
If you think your forks are too soft you could reduce those measurements by 10mm or so.

[TigerTrax]

Steamer owners have done a couple of things to stiffen those front forks:

1. Inserts a PVC spacer at the top of the spring ... seems to have helped quite a lot.  I forget the length but I'm thinking about 1".

2. Mix 15 wt fork oil and 10 wt fork oil for about a 13 wt oil...
    good comments on results.

   Finally.. somewhere in archives on Big Tiger board, Jason in Iowa
built a fork oil removal device and a way to see oil level when refilling.

[Stuie]

Man... you "cats" rock!

I appreciate the info and advice. I did order the book a day ago so, I'll wait for it before experimenting. I would have loosend that lower end bolt first thing! Thanks for mentioning that... saved me some grief!



My bike!

Best
Stuie

[TigerTrax]

Don't EVER show that '98 Volcanic Red bike again.......

I loved my Steamer!

I like my '06!

TigerTrax

[Cafe Central]

Hi Stuie,

I just came across the TigerTriple forum and saw your question.

There have been different forks used for the steamers. Older ones had a lateral screw to relieve the oil, later ones did not have that screw anymore. Change must have been before 1997.

My 1997 steamer needs the fork to be removed and turned upside down for emptying the oil (no lateral screw). It takes more time but I would probably do so anyway to get rid of as much residues as possible.

I use progressive springs from WP suspension
( www.wpsuspension.com ), and I found a useful instruction for adjustment in the download area of another supplier ( www.wilbers.de ). Steamer's forks are "RSU" (right side up). Being far from skinny I use fork oil SAE 20W30 instead of the recommended SAE 15, filled up to achieve an air chamber of 170 mm. I did that earlier this year and it was quite an improvement (no idea what oil and how much of it was in before).

When I lived in your neighborhood (Arlington, TX) seven years ago (and riding my first steamer there), I found the guys from Eurosport Cycle in Ft. Worth to be quite a helpful bunch...

Best regards from Germany,
Ewald


Edit Nov 17, 2007: Corrected value for air chamber (170mm); air chamber of 240mm is valid for different spring types.

[Stuie]

Hi Ewald,

Thanks for the info amigo! I have been to Eurosport but I generally hit RPM in Dallas to check out all of their sweet vintage bikes and Bonneville racers they always have in their showrooms. I will definitely check out those springs when I finish writing this thanks for the info post. In reading Cbats centerstand install thread, it looks like I need a day or two to get that done (install the motec stand that came in), add the new carb floats I got in last week and do the forks while it's all apart. Fun fun!

Thanks again!
Stu